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2000 xj Dana 30 truss

Andre2000

NAXJA Forum User
Location
canada
I’ve got a 2000 xj and I want to truss the Dana 30hp
Currently have about 6 inches of lift , only thing I’m worried about is hitting the oil pan as with the Barnes 4x4 truss sitting on the diff I’m left with about 3 inches till I get to the oil pan, anyone have a truss with similar lift ?
 
You'll need to setup your bump stops so the truss doesn't hit the pan. It will likely be the limiting factor of your up travel.

Are you saying there is only 3" of clearance between the truss and pan at ride height? That doesn't sound correct for 6" of lift.

Do you have the original low pinion axle in your 2000? Might be a good idea to swap it for a high pinion before putting work into it.
 
Yea I’m building a hp Dana 30 but was measuring off the one that there 3 inches till it contacts the sump part of the pan but for that to happen The axle would half to come back an inch do you think that could be a possibility?, I’ll take some better measurements tonight
 
As the suspension compresses getting closer to the pan....the axle actually moves forward due to the control arm angle getting flatter. It will most likely clear, and should never move rearward on compression. I think you'll be good.
 
Yea I’m building a hp Dana 30 but was measuring off the one that there 3 inches till it contacts the sump part of the pan but for that to happen The axle would half to come back an inch do you think that could be a possibility?, I’ll take some better measurements tonight

The axle will move forward when the suspension compresses. You definitely shouldn't have the truss at risk of contacting the sump of the oil pan. It should tuck up in front of the sump.

What do you have for control arms? Just wondering if they're short and that's why you're seeing the axle and sump get close.
 
I’ve got rubicon express control arms
I’ve got about 6 inches from the top of the truss to the oil pan , and glad to hear the axle should go forward so I shouldint half to worry about the sump hitting
I measured my coils and got 8.5 inches of travel , so I’m thinking I’ll remove the 1-1/2 inch bump stop and install a 5inch bumb stop that should give me 5 inches of up travel and 1 inch between the oil pan and truss at full articulation make sense?
 
Are you running drop brackets?
 
You need either drop brackets or long arms. Your going to have multiple issues to deal with besides just a horrible ride!
 
I’ve had drop brackets in the past and would never do it again they got hung up on everything , the ride right now is not that bad I’m more worried about hitting the oil pan once I install my truss, are you thinking that 5 inch of up travel is whats going to make it ride rough ?
 
No beside the harsh ride, it's the fact that at 6" on stock arms with no db's your arms are at a extreme angle and have to travel thru a extreme arc which causes issues with the trackbar and steering set-up and shocks.
 
You may even end up with front driveshaft issues.
 
Is this the truss that you plan on installing?
jeep-tj-dana-30-axle-truss.jpg


I've installed several Artec trusses on D30 axles for folks running 5-6" of lift on their XJ's, which is similar in design to the Barnes truss and pan to truss clearance has never been an issue.
 
Yea that’s the truss I’ll be running

As for drive shaft angle everything has been good haven’t had any problems not looking to throw on long arms at the moment $$$lol
Just wanna make sure this truss won’t hit my oil pan that’s all , been riding the Jeep like this for years it’s been pretty reliable I’m not running the stock track bar either it’s an adjustable rubicon one
 
Sounds like I’ll be ok with this truss as long as I put in those bump stops I ordered 5 inch stops and I’ll have 5 inches of up travel on the coils after that’s installed
Measured above the truss to oil pan I’ve got 6imches so should workout perfect
 
Guessing that you don't have 6" of lift then. I just measured the clearance from my TnT D30 truss to the oil pan and it's 7" of clearance, and my rig is sitting at just over 5.5" of lift.

You can tune your bumps to provide clearance and minimize uptravel.

I run Prothane coil inserts, which are a great bumpstop option, which you can tune for your rig by cutting shorter as needed.

Front%20end%20refresh%20complete_zpsx9cet7ev.jpg
 
Guessing that you don't have 6" of lift then. I just measured the clearance from my TnT D30 truss to the oil pan and it's 7" of clearance, and my rig is sitting at just over 5.5" of lift.

You can tune your bumps to provide clearance and minimize uptravel.

I run Prothane coil inserts, which are a great bumpstop option, which you can tune for your rig by cutting shorter as needed.

Front%20end%20refresh%20complete_zpsx9cet7ev.jpg

I order 5 inch polyuréthane ones that fit the factory bump stop might do those inserts aswell if I end up needing them they seem pretty good are they bolted to the perch ? , and yea as for lift my front coils were 4.5 rubicon express with a 2 inch spacer but the coils are old and tired lol , If I was to remove factory bump stop and measure from the perch to the bump stop insert cap it’s 10 inches so I figure the 5 inch one i ordered should give me 5 inch of up travel (truss to oil pan was 6) so think that will work ?
 
The only way you'll really be able to get it tuned in is to get everything installed and cycle the suspension and add/remove bump stops to maximize travel without anything binding/bottoming out/contacting. I wouldn't try to figure out how much bump to add by subtracting oil pan clearance from available travel.

Your bump stops are also there to protect your shocks from bottoming out and to keep your tires out of your fenders. Check it at full bump and also full flex with the steering cut in both directions.

To be sure about how much lift you have, measure from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the unibody rail. Stock height is 6.75" in the front and 6" in the rear. Anything more than that is how much lift you have.
 
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