NEW Bushwackers

[VAhasnoWAVES]

$150 a corner seems steep. their normally 400 or 450 for the entire set. that would mean a set would be 600. that would be ridiculous to offer something more than their already high priced flares

your paying for convenience really... its probably cheaper for bushwacker to manufacture and sell the flairs as a set.

These flares look pretty good, but I hate how aftermarket flares always have the body line in them so there is really only one height you can mount them. I know this is unavoidable, but I have my fenders cut up higher than these flares could mount, so no way I could put them on. Would be nice to have a set of fenders to throw on for the street and take off for wheeling.

i would think it could be done. with some spacers or better yet plastic welding you could make them fit. but i wouldnt want to spend that coin and have to fab something for a proper fit.

your best bet is home brew.










x2 on photos of the rear on 35s. you still havent posted your lift height Steve F...

 

[maalox]

Please tell me bw pulled their heads out and are now offering these in singles or even pairs...

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/mercha...stys&Product_Code=10063-07&Category_Code=bush

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/mercha...stys&Product_Code=10064-07&Category_Code=bush

 

[slcpunk74]

All about singles. I like that you can get them in pairs but singles are better

 

[FiveNdime]

Figured I'd toss my photos on here. I am running an Iron Rock Critical Path 6.5"LA kit. 35x12.50" brand new BFG KM2's on 3.75" backspaced wheels.


How it sits on the level driveway with about 60lbs worth of tools in the back

I have wheeled it since these shots and I have one negative. I need bump stops for sure on the rear and front bad. Also if you have your brake lines anywhere near the stock mounting location you will rip those off like I did on the trail at full lock and full compression. I didn't do the hack job cut and fold. I cut then re-welded which if you have the skills and equipment I would highly recommend. Sorry for the large pics...but I like detail :greensmok

 

[Steve F]

Put a 35 on the rear today, flexed it up a bit as well. I doesn't look like much flex in the pics so I've included the drop on the passenger side as well to give a better idea. My Jeep doesn't flex the best in the rear as the spring pack is setup quite firm for towing etc. I think it should work pretty well with 35's with still another inch or two of up travel before it'll rub if it's going to (it'll be close and may not rub at all)

I'm at 5.5" but that's not that relevant as they wont rub at that height anyway

Just sitting

With some flex, it's close but I think it will clear the front and rear of the flare and rub further up first, I may need to bumpstop to stop it but I think my springs will limit the up travel. The spring pack is pretty close to flat in this pic.

And the drop side with a 32" The driveway has a depression for a drain in it so it's flexed just sitting there so I didn't need to compress the drivers side mush to get it to stuff a reasonable amount.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Zuul99]

Cool rig Bro

 

[secondrecon22]

do the first bushwackers have more room compares to the flat ones. would it be possible to fit 33s on 3 inches of lift with the flat flares

 

[Steve F]

The first are cut higher so have more room at the top but not sure how much. I run 32's with stock bumpstops and haven't rubbed yet. The flare angles up from where it mounts so it gives a bit more clearance when flexed up.

Cheers
Steve

 

[xjtrailrider]

I like these flares but my fenders are cut too far already according to the install instructions. For those that have installed them, look at my pick and see if you think they will mount up.

 

[keep0njeepin0n]

Figured I'd toss my photos on here. I am running an Iron Rock Critical Path 6.5"LA kit. 35x12.50" brand new BFG KM2's on 3.75" backspaced wheels.


How it sits on the level driveway with about 60lbs worth of tools in the back

I have wheeled it since these shots and I have one negative. I need bump stops for sure on the rear and front bad. Also if you have your brake lines anywhere near the stock mounting location you will rip those off like I did on the trail at full lock and full compression. I didn't do the hack job cut and fold. I cut then re-welded which if you have the skills and equipment I would highly recommend. Sorry for the large pics...but I like detail :greensmok

How do you like that lift setup? Would I be ok without trimming and running 33's on MOABS without rubbing much?

 

[xjjeepthing]

I like these flares but my fenders are cut too far already according to the install instructions. For those that have installed them, look at my pick and see if you think they will mount up.

Trimmed about the same wondering about this myself

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

they use a lot of the stock mounting holes... front and rear. i would think it COULD be done but you would have to mimic the same arc and measurements and the top of your trim job to the stock opening. and the rear would be even more involved.

here is an alternative:
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1045189

though i guess that route wold be more involved than making the BS's fit. haha.

 

[AT FAB XJ]

here's a few pics of mine with them painted....

I don't like the old bushw-h-acker cutouts. I really like the iceland but didn't want bondo or putty holding on my mounting hardware or a 6 month wait.

I still don't really like these but I am hoping they will grow on me or I'll figure something else out.

 

[DrMoab]

I've got a quick and easy question for those of you who have installed these after taking factory flares off to do it.

The previous owners of my jeep were retarded and had it repainted at some super el-cheaper place and they didn't pull the factory flares off to do it. So now, there is a clear paint line where the factory flare meets the body.

With these flares installed, is there anywhere where the outer edge of the new flare is lower than the original factory flare? If not I could get away running these but I really don't want that paint line to show up.

 

[DrMoab]

Anyone??

 

[DieselSJ]

I've got a quick and easy question for those of you who have installed these after taking factory flares off to do it.

The previous owners of my jeep were retarded and had it repainted at some super el-cheaper place and they didn't pull the factory flares off to do it. So now, there is a clear paint line where the factory flare meets the body.

With these flares installed, is there anywhere where the outer edge of the new flare is lower than the original factory flare? If not I could get away running these but I really don't want that paint line to show up.

From seeing a set in person at the Expo last weekend, and looking at the install instructions, it appears they are above the stock flare line on the body. I can't say with 100% certainty though. I think the instructions are posted on the Quadratech site - they give all the cut measurements so you could probably tell from that.

 

[DrMoab]

they give all the cut measurements so you could probably tell from that.

Yeah I've read them. Mostly you cut in front and behind. You don't really cut much off the top part of the opening.

 

[AkRawb]

I just ordered my Napier products V2 fender flares. Should be in Wednesday. Check them out. Ill post pics when I get the install done

 

[Steve F]

Thought I'd give a quick update, I'm running around 5" of lift up front with 4.5" bumpstops on the lower spring pads. With this setup and the flat flares the 35's don't rub on the guards and stuff nicely. The rear has no issues at all.

Anyway, a couple of pics for those that wondered if 35's would fit.

It's close and looks like it rubs but there is just enough room for flex and steering.

Cheers
Steve