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Lost gages,radio,domelightand buzzer need HELP

Okay,So I started with the things I knew first I unwired the back-up cam and had wife drive still cutting out.Then the in-dash dvd player was next.Did find green wire on radio harness had been cut and twisted to itself?or another green wire?This was on the factory side which I know I didn't touch.Part of remote starter?I just undid my side and still cutting out.Next was driving lights disconnected,same.Only non OEM thing left is remote start unit "professionally" installed by a recommended shop who specializes....I don't know how to eliminate this so I didn't.I also tried getting visor vanity light to short.I couldn't,but the wife says its only worked once since she owned it.Interesting... But this last time I drove it I noticed something new.Immediately after the episode the low fuel "ding" and dummy light and fuel gage buried below E.This time rest of cluster is fine and no blown IOD fuse.After maybe 1/2 mile gage returned to normal and low fuel light went out.Now it was near the point where light would come on, same as the first time that I lost everything.(me the wife and tech have burnt a tank test drivin the thing)When I say immediately I mean as soon as last flash of check engine I got audible,light and buried needle.I still haven't done all of McQue and MJRs suggestions but I ask again PCM?Impossible to trace ground? or Fuel gage sensor?Thanx to all who read and feedback.
 
Just putting in two cents grey, my best friend owned a 98' sebring had engine lite came on then lost all power in dash.From then on out sometimes when he would let it set for awhile and turn the ignition over the instrument cluster worked fine.Cant really remember if it started form bumps in the road though? Anyways the dealership told him it was in fact the pcm without going through the bs you went through.I just figured it was a chrysler product and it had a similar prob as you.:dunno:
 
FINAL UPDATE:Kid at dealership found "chafed" wire behind cylinder head,One of the wires in the engine harness. I asked tech how he troubleshot it if it ever threw a code.He said he just drove it could tell it was electrical and was able to get it to stall while jiggling harness at idle on shop floor.Something me and previous tech were unable to do for whatever reason.Charged me $162 parts+labor problem gone,wife happy.The total cost of this episode approx. $450 not counting the $150 for the new red top Optima I bought.Haven't tinkered with her rig since last winter,now I want to get her dual piston calipers up front and do something about her poor lighting circuit.Both my '93YJ&'95XJ have good headlights but her '99 has always sucked.I upgraded her sealed beams with Delta H4 conversion and not impressed.I think I need that Painless wiring harness + go HID.More $$$.Anyways thanx to all who posted especially McQue and MJR and hope this thread will help someone else with there problem.NAXJA rocks.
 
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