Looking for Tips on Engine Removal

[desertred]

I'm looking to remove the engine in my XJ next week and replace it with a remanufactured 4.0. I'm looking for any tips, pitfalls, or sticking ponts that I should watch out or be ready for during removal and replacement. For example, would it be easier to pull just the engine, the engine & clutch, or engine, clutch & tranny together and seperate them after removal? What other items should I plan on removing (radiator, exhaust, etc) to allow room for the engine removal? Are there some things that I should go ahead and replace while its out, like motor mounts? How much room will I need to pull the engine (verticle and horizontal), as I'm limited in my garage space. For information, I have a manual transmission and a complete new clutch system. This is my first venture at an engine replacement, so any advice will be appreciated.

 

[desertred]

No one has any experience at garage engine removals or replacements?

 

[gettinbetterXJ]

engine job

I speak from experience (limited) when I say that the key to the whole operation going smoothly is ORGANIZATION. Don't just pull nuts and bolts and "Set them right here where I will remember where they are", that crap will bite you in the ass before it's all over. When I did mine I seperated the engine and tranny and just pulled the block. Replace all the seals and gaskets don't use anything old you will most likely never be in a better position to replace your mains as with the block on the engine stand. And most importantly, at least it ended up being so in my case...........On the front of the cam shaft, there is a small pin and spring,(camshaft thrust pin) when you pull the timing cover off this spring and pin might fall onto the floor, pick it up IMIDIATLEY, label it, and store it somewhere safe, and REMEMBER to put it back on the new block. Other wise a few months down the road your cam shaft will have eaten at least one or two lifters and destroyed itself in the bargain walking back and forth over the journals. Don't forget to prime the oil pump before starting, before putting the valve cover on spin teh pump until fresh oil has shown up at the rocker arms. Also if you do pull just the block you will need about three feet of extentions to reach the two bolts on teh very top of the bell housing, it's the only way I found to reach them at teh right angle. There are plenty other technical heads up to be aware of but I don't feel qualified to give too many of those. The thrust pin was something I thought not important becasue I had managed to loose it.......not so .....very important.
Just my 1.5 cents

 

[gettinbetterXJ]

removal

Pull the entire front clip off the Jeep, it only takes a few extra mintues and will give you soo much more room to work. As far as motor mounts and stuff hell yeah replace all that type of stuff while it's easy. Mine is auto tranny so I can't tell ya much about the clutch stuff.

 

[BMWSOB]

I agree with the front clip removal. After that I pulled mine with a cherry picker in a garage that was just made for storing a car... not much bigger than the actual jeep.

 

[desertred]

I agree with the front clip removal. After that I pulled mine with a cherry picker in a garage that was just made for storing a car... not much bigger than the actual jeep.

That's exactly the position I am in. What exactly is the front clip (don't have my manuals with me right now)? Is it the fan shroud, the grill (requiring radiator removal)?

I will go ahead and start gather new motor mounts, etc. Thanks much for the tip concerning the camshaft spring/pin. Anything else I need to watch out for? How much time should I reasonably expect this job to take (trying to plan around work schedule)?

 

[BMWSOB]

Front clip meaning the grill, headlights, bumper, radiator, ac condensor, fan shroud, and pretty much anything you see in front of the engine.

 

[BlueMJ]

Front clip meaning the grill, headlights, bumper, radiator, ac condensor, fan shroud, and pretty much anything you see in front of the engine.

t


the front grill surround is easy to take off.

remove headlight trim, not the bezels or lights themselves

locate & remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side) holding panel to fenders

Locate & remove the 4 or 5 nuts on the inside lip of the panel, above the radiator (DO NOT torque the nuts back down hard on reassembly, you will break off the stud in the header)

locate & unplug the headlamp/blinker connector harness behind the driver's headlight, you may have to fish around for it under the airbox...much easier tha removing the headlights, blinker bulbs, etc... regrease this connector on reassembly

remove panel

very simple, takes about 10 minutes (now that I know what to look for anyway)

 

[Beagles]

I just finished replacing the engine and trans on mine and you should be able to get the engine/trans removed as a unit without taking off the hood or removing any body work. I used a cherry picker with an Autozone engine chain. I did remove the intake/exhaust manifolds first along with the radiator and fan. You'll also have to unbolt the AC compressor and PS pump if you don't want to disconnect the hoses. Drain your transfer case first if you don't want a mess and support it with a jack while you remove the rear crossmember. Once the engine chain is in place, lower the jack and pull it on out.