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long arm kits?

I'll throw in another vote for the TnT kit, i love it and one of the awesome things is that its completely bolt on and it comes with a huge belly skid for protection.
 
I have the T&T y-link on 7.5" of lift with 35s and I have a super flexy ride. I would recomend going between 6-7" w/ 35s. 8" is just a tad over kill imo. Then again if you mainly stay in the mud you might want a little more lift vs west coast guys who haul ass in the desert or are rock crawling and want a low cog.
 
I see lots of XJ's with 6.5" or larger lifts out here in NJ and PA including my own. You can't really run much stuff, trail wise, unless you have the enough ground clearance and huge flex. Top quality equipment + knowledgeable installation=stabilty period. Junk is junk and is usually unsafe. Most of our guys run either RE or Clayton. I've heard bad things about Rusty's too, mostly horrible fitment issues with can make install a NIGHTMARE (brackets don't line up) and just plain part failure (broken trackbars and poor welds). RK uses heim joints on they're long arms and steering, they are known for road noise (clanking) and suspension play.
 
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hell i ran 6" of lift for one run and it scared the shit out of me. brought my height down to about 3" and have been much happier and more capable.

this is on 37's btw

37's on 3"? Do you have any flex? Do you have bumb stops? Because thats the only way I see someone running 37's on 3" of lift.
 
TNT
 
hell i ran 6" of lift for one run and it scared the shit out of me. brought my height down to about 3" and have been much happier and more capable.

this is on 37's btw

post pics please. i need a good laugh
 
post pics please. i need a good laugh

ask and you shall receive

i love it when people doubt me, i have comments ranging from the usualy "yea but i bet it flexes like a shopping cart" all the way to "OMG DID YOU TRIM TO YOUR WINDSHIELD!??11!!11"

i run lots of bumpstop in the rear (4.1" rubbers and dpg adjustable plates)

and 2 hockey pucks in front bolted to my coil bucket

some of the pics are on 36" tsl's others are on 37" creepy crawlers

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IMG_2159.jpg


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n45905617_31372870_4204.jpg


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IMG_1550-1.jpg


try this with 8" of lift
IMG_2161.jpg



/picwhore
 
I always liked cheapxj's old setup, anybody have the pics where he cut out his wheel wells to fit 35s on a 3" lift?
 
guess what your shocks are doing

Let me rephrase that. I can get more travel than you because I don't run bumpstops. Yeah my shocks are bottoming out but well after your bumpstops do. You either need to trim more to run your set up (because your rubbing) or you run TONS of bumpstops which makes no sense to me. Then you just take away from all your movmement. I will say that I think you have good pics and your rig looks okay. No manufacter recommends 37's on 3" of lift and there is a reason for that. You just showed us why.
 
Let me rephrase that. I can get more travel than you because I don't run bumpstops. Yeah my shocks are bottoming out but well after your bumpstops do. You either need to trim more to run your set up (because your rubbing) or you run TONS of bumpstops which makes no sense to me. Then you just take away from all your movmement. I will say that I think you have good pics and your rig looks okay. No manufacter recommends 37's on 3" of lift and there is a reason for that. You just showed us why.


OH NO MY TIRES SLIGHTLY RUB ITS THE END OF THE WORLD

truth is. if i had a rig on 37's with twice my suspension height and i wanted to keep my tires out of the fenders i would need to run just as much bumpstop as i do now.

i gladly trade a couple inches of suspension compression and height for;

-better suspension geometry, having your control arms more parralel to the ground mean that your tires will crawl up steep ledges with more ease than if they are angled and the rear axle is pushing those links more vertical

- less weight transfer, the taller your rig is the more the weight will hover over the rear tires when climbing obstacles, having your front tires floating on an obstacle while all the weight is over the rear tires doesn't help you much. same goes for when you may be having trouble finding traction on a hillclimb, the rig can get into a bouncing rythm, the taller and softer the suspension the rig has the worse off you are.

- lower center of gravity, this can be argued to an extent, but when off camber i will be much more stable than a taller rig
 
No manufacter recommends 37's on 3" of lift and there is a reason for that. You just showed us why.

because i run bumpstops straight off the shelf of those suspension manufacturers?

because my tires kiss my fenders?
 
umm, while i agree that the rear wheelwells are a little small for 37s uncut, i love the low COG ktm racer has. there is nothing at all wrong with bumpstopping your rig to fit bigger tires. unless you're going FAST and need tons of wheel travel i don't see any downsides to it. and DUH, of course no manufacturer recommends 37s for 3" of lift. it's called ingenuity, remember when TJs first came out, and everyone did 4" and 33s? people have pushed the limits and have been able to fit much bigger tires than that. like the no-lift YJ JP magazine did. no lift and 40s? i bet jeep didn't recommend tires that big either, lifted or not.
 
umm, while i agree that the rear wheelwells are a little small for 37s uncut, .

the rear wheelwells fit those tires just about perfectly right now. i would like to open them up a little more over the winter and squeeze a little more suspension compression out of my back end along with raising my upper shock mounts and maybe moving my axle rearward an inch or so to give me some breathing room back there. but i have no major issues running them how it is now
 
OH NO MY TIRES SLIGHTLY RUB ITS THE END OF THE WORLD

truth is. if i had a rig on 37's with twice my suspension height and i wanted to keep my tires out of the fenders i would need to run just as much bumpstop as i do now.

i gladly trade a couple inches of suspension compression and height for;

-better suspension geometry, having your control arms more parralel to the ground mean that your tires will crawl up steep ledges with more ease than if they are angled and the rear axle is pushing those links more vertical

- less weight transfer, the taller your rig is the more the weight will hover over the rear tires when climbing obstacles, having your front tires floating on an obstacle while all the weight is over the rear tires doesn't help you much. same goes for when you may be having trouble finding traction on a hillclimb, the rig can get into a bouncing rythm, the taller and softer the suspension the rig has the worse off you are.

- lower center of gravity, this can be argued to an extent, but when off camber i will be much more stable than a taller rig


I do everything you are doing in those pics with 8" lift. Remember your caption "do this with 8" of lift"... well I do. Whatever with your "weight hovering over rear tires" and "better suspension geometry". My control arms are just as flat as yours. You write this stuff like your some friggin engineer. You been wheeling for how long? Personally I don't care if your tires slice from rubbing too much into your body, that's your business. In addtion if you doubled your suspension you still wouldn't have enough room to run 37's. I thought you were running 40's for a while? Hmm I bet that went well. :speepin:
 
I do everything you are doing in those pics with 8" lift. Remember your caption "do this with 8" of lift"... well I do. Whatever with your "weight hovering over rear tires" and "better suspension geometry". My control arms are just as flat as yours. You write this stuff like your some friggin engineer. You been wheeling for how long? Personally I don't care if your tires slice from rubbing too much into your body, that's your business. In addtion if you doubled your suspension you still wouldn't have enough room to run 37's. I thought you were running 40's for a while? Hmm I bet that went well. :speepin:

:rofl:

i have personally experienced my rig with 6" of lift and 3" of lift (just so happens to be double) on the same obstacles in the same conditions and i know which is more capable.

i will beleive what you said in that post when i see it.

never ran 40's and tires don't slice, no idea where you heard that from
 
the rear wheelwells fit those tires just about perfectly right now. i would like to open them up a little more over the winter and squeeze a little more suspension compression out of my back end along with raising my upper shock mounts and maybe moving my axle rearward an inch or so to give me some breathing room back there. but i have no major issues running them how it is now

i'm trying to just fit 35s on mine with about 3"-4", and i'm thinking about bumpstopping, slightly trimming, and using ORD zero rate add-a-leaves. i'm impressed that the 37s don't rub, too bad... LOL
 
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