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let this be THE peguot to AX-15 swap thread

Ok, I'm attempting this swap in reverse, so can anyone verify my questions below? (I am putting an 88 peugot tranny into a 91 2wd XJ - both were really cheap to get ahold of)

I need a pilot bearing with an internal diameter of: 0.625"
& external diameter of: 1.75"

Do I need a clutch & slave cylinder for an 88, can I get an external slave for this model year?
Will I need to relocate the tranny crossmember?
Can anyone give me driveshaft measurements?
Are there any more tricks I've forgotten?
(I helped a buddy do this a few years ago, and I can't think of anything else odd I've forgotten)
 
The external slave wasn't available until late 89.I don't think a external slave can be used with a pugeot ba 10/5 because they were all internal.I think I have the proper size pilot bearing you need laying around....new never used.If I find it I can send it to you free.
 
No external bellhousing was available for the XJ with the BA-10/5, and I think the external bellhousing wasn't available for the AX-15 until 1996 or so.

I've also got a couple of pilot bearings if you need them - if you're not in any hurry - that I can dig up when I get back to CA.

5-90
 
Can I use the bellhousing from the 2wd tranny on the peugot, or do I have to use the peugot bellhousing? I have to wait on the bellhousing to arrive if so.

93_xj - I am in Ohio, so it'd be a no go with you in Conneticut...

outlander - can you round that bearing up? Can I paypal you or something for shipping it?
 
You probably can't mix bellhousings - the bolt patterns are sure to be different. You can use an AX-15 bellhousing on an AX-15, and a peugeot bellhousing on a Peugeot, but I'd be very surprised if you could stick a Peugeot bell on an AX-15 without some major fabrication.

Apart from that, 2WD/4WD should not matter - it's the mainshaft and tailcone that are different. The bellhousings bolt to otherwise the same engines and same gearcases...

5-90
 
Correct - bellhousing is different...trans mount is different too IIRC - I had to modify the AX15 one when I briefly ran the Peugeot.

All the clutch hardware is identical, so if your pressure plate and clutch disc are in good shape you don't even have to take 'em off the motor. The throwout (slave) is the same as well.

The length is also a little different...the Peugeot is shorter. I know this because my driveshaft bottomed out when I put the AX15 back in.

I gotta ask though...are you sure you want to do this? Do you know anything about the condition of the Peugeot trans? Only asking because once they start to go, they go FAST, and it's not pretty. Mine worked 'fine' when I first put it in, and within 6000 miles I lost 5th gear, most synchros, reverse would pop out all the time, and 2nd gear didn't like life too much either. They did an excellent job of designing that transmission so that everything would wear out and break at almost the same time.
 
I am told the peugot was pulled running fine, and is being had for dirt cheap. This XJ is for playing in offroad only, so it'll probably never see 500 miles, let alone 5,000.

Any AX15/tcase combos I've seen for sale are $500+.
Junkyards around here are outrageous anymore too.
 
jfiscus said:
I am told the peugot was pulled running fine, and is being had for dirt cheap. This XJ is for playing in offroad only, so it'll probably never see 500 miles, let alone 5,000.

Any AX15/tcase combos I've seen for sale are $500+.
Junkyards around here are outrageous anymore too.

I'd be a bit leery about that - I've grenaded four BA-10's, and that was in "road service" only! Nothing off-road - I didn't trust them that far...

You Have Been Warned...

5-90
 
Sorry to revive this thread, but I am about 90% done with this swap and have hit another invisible wall. Here is my setup: 87 XJ BA10/5 swapping in a 95 AX15 and NP231.

Well where to start, the engine cranks, wants to start, but doesn’t. I can’t figure out how to bleed the clutch even though I have one of those books. And after spending hours upon hours reading online, forums, write-ups I don’t know what electrical connections go where. Is there something electrical that would keep the engine from starting if its not connected?

I have a 4 prong connector that does not connect to the newer 95 tcase. Does anyone know what the wires are running out of the tcase and tranny? Backup light, etc?
I can take photos to help explain myself better, but im getting to the point where I just want to take it to someone. Every bit of info sure helps.

-Chris
 
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hey. they wires that go to the back of the t case are for the 4X4 lights on the dash. if you have a manual tranny (which i dont, just tryin to help) the only wires that the engine would need are connected to the CPS (top of bellhousing). the only other wires i can think of would be for the backup lights.

-Tim
 
Whats the CPS? Its late here so my mind is not all together, but does anyone know what/where the vacuum lines are for the front axle? I plan on installing a mechanical switch to connect the front axle, so if i can subtract the vacuum lines it would help out my dangling wire frustration.
 
rocketman121 said:
Whats the CPS? Its late here so my mind is not all together, but does anyone know what/where the vacuum lines are for the front axle? I plan on installing a mechanical switch to connect the front axle, so if i can subtract the vacuum lines it would help out my dangling wire frustration.

the CPS is the crankshaft position sensor. if you are looking at the bellhousing from the front, its at about 1 o'clock. with out it, no starty.

the vacuum lines for the front axle are for the vacuum disconnect. they are important for 4x4 unless you have a posi-lock (search for it)

-Tim
 
jeepnuts311 said:
the CPS is the crankshaft position sensor. if you are looking at the bellhousing from the front, its at about 1 o'clock. with out it, no starty.

the vacuum lines for the front axle are for the vacuum disconnect. they are important for 4x4 unless you have a posi-lock (search for it)

-Tim

Yea, thats what i meant by mechanical switch...posi-lock. But is there a vacuum line going to the tcase, do determine when the tcase is engaged?
 
rocketman121 said:
Yea, thats what i meant by mechanical switch...posi-lock. But is there a vacuum line going to the tcase, do determine when the tcase is engaged?

yeah im pretty sure the vacuum line goes from the t-case down to the axle. i had a np242 to begin with, so my axle is non-disco. the 231 i swapped in has vacuum thing on the back of it, but i didnt have to mess with it.

-tim
 
jeepnuts311 said:
yeah im pretty sure the vacuum line goes from the t-case down to the axle. i had a np242 to begin with, so my axle is non-disco. the 231 i swapped in has vacuum thing on the back of it, but i didnt have to mess with it.

-tim

Was it directly below the speedo gear assembly on the tcase? 4 prong circular connector?

Thanks for you help tim, im calling it a night. I will have some more questions in a few days, the jeep is 45 mins away in a buddys garage. Its been camping out there for 3 weeks now and i will be towing it home monday.
 
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rocketman121 said:
Was it directly below the speedo gear assembly on the tcase? 4 prong circular connector?

Thanks for you help tim, im calling it a night. I will have some more questions in a few days, the jeep is 45 mins away in a buddys garage. Its been camping out there for 3 weeks now and i will be towing it home monday.

honestly, i never paid much attention to the vacuum thing, but yea it looks like a 4 prong connector, and its located at the end of the shift rail... like i said, i never had to deal with the vacuum BS.....

you said you were switching to a 95 tranny and t-case? well your 95 t-case wont have the vacuum stuff at all, so you will need a posi lock IIRC.

also, i think on your year model, the dash lights were operated from the axle end of the vacuum disco, not the t-case i was confusing my np242 unit, it had the elec connector.

-Tim
 
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jeepnuts311 said:
you said you were switching to a 95 tranny and t-case? well your 95 t-case wont have the vacuum stuff at all, so you will need a posi lock IIRC.
-Tim


Or swap in a later model's solid shaft, or use a band clamp or washers to hold the shift collar over in the locked position, or reinstall the CAD housing plate upside down. There are plenty of ways to overcome the vacuum shifter without spending much (if any) dough.

Don't forget that the CPS that came with the new transmission (if it did) will NOT work with the old engine's computer. You'll need to transfer over the old CPS.
Jeep on!
--Pete

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Hi all,

Thought I'd add $.02 having just completed this swap on my kids' '88 4WD.

-- We put an AX15 from a '92 into the '88
-- The length of the two transmissions is identical in our case
-- Therefore, we reused the same drivelines
-- The crank bore for the pilot bearing in the '92 is 1.00" vs. 1.055" in the '88
-- We used the '73 CJ w/304 pilot bushing, which fit perfectly
-- We used the transfer case from the donor as well, so no spline issues
-- The trans mount and crossmember from the '92 worked great
-- We tapped the rearward holes in the frame (10mm x 1.5) and it lined right up
-- The exhaust hanger on the trans mount lined right up too
-- I've lost track of which shift lever is installed -- neither is a perfect fit
-- The '92 is a Sport, and the '88 is a Laredo, so the consoles are different
-- There is interference between the shift lever and the console in 2nd, 4th, and R
-- I guess we may need to find a shifter from a Laredo with the AX15
-- Any info on this would be appreciated!
-- We swapped the speedo gear from the '88 into the '
-- The trickiest part of the swap was the transfer case linkage
-- The '88 has the linkage crank mounted about 3" forward compared with the '92
-- The linkage crank is narrower on the '92, and the rods are longer on the '88
-- Neither bracket/linkage bolts in
-- We could have swapped out the bracket mounted to the underside of the tunnel
-- But this would have meant removing the driver seat and carpet
-- Instead, I ended up using the tranny-side bracket from the '88
-- I flipped it around and used it inside-out
-- There is a threaded hole in the AX15 that takes a 7/16 bolt in about the right place
-- I drilled out the mounting hole on the bracket
-- I pushed out the plastic grommet and put it in from the other side
-- (Actually, I ruined the first one and managed to swap in the one from the '92)
-- (Heating it over the drop light seemed to help)
-- Here's the combo: tranny bracket from '92 (flipped); crank from '92 (narrower); rods from '88 (longer)
-- Don't drop the cross member without disconnecting the exhaust!
-- We cracked the manifold (another major project awaits)

That's all I can think of.

Scott
 
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