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let this be THE peguot to AX-15 swap thread

yeah its an 86 4.0 longbox MJ. their sua in the rear from the factory. so then if the tranny is longer, then it should acctualy make up for the longer distance between the axle and t-case that comes with lifting.
so basiclaly, i should have all i need to know:
94-^ AX-15, 231 Tcase and bellhousing (buying all as one peice from same jeep)
the ax15 plumbing for clutch
cj5 304 3 spd piolt bushing
relocating crossmember back some

now isnt there a 241 TC or something that is fulltime? is there any way that i could accidently get the wrong TC? how can i make sure that when i buy the bellhousing/ax15/TC that im getting a 231?
 
stupidfast said:
yeah its an 86 4.0 longbox MJ. their sua in the rear from the factory. so then if the tranny is longer, then it should acctualy make up for the longer distance between the axle and t-case that comes with lifting.
so basiclaly, i should have all i need to know:
94-^ AX-15, 231 Tcase and bellhousing (buying all as one peice from same jeep)
the ax15 plumbing for clutch
cj5 304 3 spd piolt bushing
relocating crossmember back some

now isnt there a 241 TC or something that is fulltime? is there any way that i could accidently get the wrong TC? how can i make sure that when i buy the bellhousing/ax15/TC that im getting a 231?

'86 and 4.0? You'll want to check that. The 4.0 didn't start til 87.

There is a 242 t-case that has a full-time option in addition to part time lo and hi, but I don't believe it ever came behind the manual. If it did I've never seen one.
 
One more thing, I adapted the plastic hydraulic line going from the new slave to my original master's metal line with a simple $2 pressure fitting from the hardware store. Size was 1/4"-to-5/16" inch I think. Oh, and the late model AX-15 to non-H.O. pilot bushing is a $2 unit. There were other CJ parts avaiable, but they were more than $2.
Jeep on!
--Pete

13992327.jpg
 
Pete M said:
One more thing, I adapted the plastic hydraulic line going from the new slave to my original master's metal line with a simple $2 pressure fitting from the hardware store.

Haha yeah, I did the same thing actually. But in reverse. :wierd:

I had the external slave originally, and when I did my 4wd conversion (the XJ used to be 2wd) the AX15/231 combo I ended up with was an older one. Unfortunately I sold the 2wd AX15 before I realized I needed the bellhousing. So I ended up running the internal slave setup, but with the stock master in my '94. I used a barbed fitting into the plastic line, to the proper metal line fitting to meet the internal slave.

It's always very interesting when I have to order parts for the XJ...it's got pieces from '87, '88, '89, '91, '94, '96...
 
yeah i deffanatly posted at school aready, but for somereason here at home its not showing. w/e. about that 86 4.0... i have been meaning to ask about that. when i was ordering a part for it i mentioned it was an 86 cuz thats what the last guy registered it as. but there was no 4.0 motor in the computer at autozone for an 86. but it deffanatly has the 4.0. so then what year is it? the only difference i can see from the others is that its "comanche" emblem is capitalized and italisized. i know the later models are lowercased and not itialisized. so an 87? lol i have no idea.
ok so i dont have to worry about getting the wrong tcase. ax-15s come with the 231. 242s come with autos. can anyone second that? also, i plan on doing this swap very soon. hopefuly before christmas, so i will post pics of the progress
 
As far as the hydraulic line goes I wouldn't do any splicing. If you have a hydraulic hose shop in your area they'll be able to make up a one piece line from the new slave to the old master cylinder easily. You can either go with a hard line or a HP stainless braided line. I chose the latter, only a little more money and a lot more flexible. It made routing the line a snap and I don't have to worry about the plastic line melting on the manifold. Good Luck.

Woody
 
stupidfast said:
yeah i deffanatly posted at school aready, but for somereason here at home its not showing. w/e. about that 86 4.0... i have been meaning to ask about that. when i was ordering a part for it i mentioned it was an 86 cuz thats what the last guy registered it as. but there was no 4.0 motor in the computer at autozone for an 86. but it deffanatly has the 4.0. so then what year is it?

The 4.0 appeared in the XJ in 1987 models. Unless the motor was swapped in, which requires some "adjustment" of sheet metal, its most likely an 87 and the confusion is because: It was registered due to bieng built in 86 but its an 87 model and/or it was sold in 86 after the new year models came out.
 
ahhh.. that makes sense. somone explain the hydrolic lines better. how is it routed? is it a bitch to deal with hard line routing? explain some
 
The engine bay is basically already designed for the hard line,atleast mine seemed like it was.The bends in the plastic hose fit the contours of my engine bay like a glove all the way down to the slave on the tranny.

A word of caution on using the one piece oem master......use some kind of heat shield on the line where it is close to the manifold,it's pretty hot down there.
 
This was on my 89 so yours may be different.Have you compared the difference between the two yet?If you want a pic of how it looks I'll take one...just let me know.
 
guess i read in a few places that people were having to modify some aspects of the mounts for the master. I went out and did a close comparison. It seems as though things might work out with the one-piece unit. This is on an '88.

next time i will get my ars under the jeep instead of posting all sorts on the forum...
 
Having just done this, I have a few more observations...

1) The Peugeot clutch and hydraulics may be used - at least, with the earlier AX-15. Just did it (get new screws tho - 3/8"-16 x 1". I used socket heads...)

2) If possible, check the pilot diameter. I used an 89 AX-15, and the pilot was the same size as the Peugeot (.585", IIRC. I can measure, if asked.)

3) Check the threads in the rearward crossmember frame sill holes. I had both screws pull out on the passenger side, and had to cut access holes in the frame sill so I could back them up with nuts and washers.

4) You might have to "relieve" the shift tower hole - the AX-15 has the shift tower back a bit from the Peugeot, and it's larger (four-screw rectangle, vice three-screw round.) I didn't remount the shift tower hole cover - but mine was damn near shot anyhow... I'll have to make a new one out of sheet rubber later...

5) Watch which way you install the transmission mount cushion - again, on an 89 donor. The studs are offset slightly toward the driver's side. If the crossmember won't line up with the frame sill holes, that may be why.

6) If possible, use the AX-15 crossmember. The spot for the transmission mount cushion is 3/4" to 1" lower. The holes in the Peugeot crossmember do line up with the AX-15 mount studs, but I didn't mount it (I used the 89 AX-15 crossmember, instead.)

Sizes for fasteners that might want replacing...
Clutch Cover Screws - 3/8"-16 x 1". Socket head or Hex head OK, socket heads would be preferred (they're stonger.)
Crossmember to Frame Sill Screws - 3/8"-16 x 1-1/4" Hex Head OK, washers would help. Flange heads would be best!
Transfer Case Mounting Stud Nuts - 3/8"-24
Transmission Mount to Crossmember Stud Nuts - M8-1.25. Use Nylocks.
Shift Tower Screws - M8-1.25 x 40m/m. I managed to lose a couple of these...

That's all I can think of for the moment - I didn't lose or want to replace too much else.

5-90
 
Thanks 5-90. You put out some good info. :wave1:
 
One thing I haven't seen mentioned here is make sure you get an ax15 for an XJ. When I did my swap I got a good deal on a tranny from a 95 YJ. Problem was the holes for mounting the T-case are clocked differently than on the XJ , about 13 degrees I believe. Had to drill new holes in the tranny flange to get it to fit up in the tunnel.
 
Yes, you definitely need either the AX-15 (23-sp) transfer case or input gear. If your transfer case is late production (1995? and later?) the cut of the planetary gearset for the input gearset is different, but you can swap the earlier input gear into the early cases.

5-90
 
NOW I remember what I was forgetting!

With the Peugeot gearbox, one start motor mounting screw was 3/8"-16, and the other was M10-1.5 (I don't recall lengths...)

Switching over to the AX-15, both screws are now 3/8"-16!

So, if one screw won't fit, that may be why... Just another one of those pitfalls that you have to look out for...

5-90
 
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