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I've lost my mind.. or an MP90 on a stroker

You might want to rethink that.

Your layouts look great.
 
In your current N/A engine, how do you get into 'open' loop?
WOT-TPS at ?greater than 80%, MAP at ?less than 3in vac/greater than 4.5v? rpm greater than 3500?

My point is, watching the 'fuel status' on the OBD for closed/open loop, What do you have to do to get into 'open' loop?
Under boost you have to be in open loop to be able to control/riched the fuel, if not it will just pull it back to 14.7 or what ever the closed loop AFR target value is.
 
Talyn said:
Why?
Click to expand...
The system won't work right and won't be able to tune right when in boost. The moment you go into boost, you have to be/go in open loop. At no time while in boost can you be in closed loop.
 
This weekend's mission is complete with test cuts finished. I need to make some minor changes, but not bad. Everything fits. The material is a piece of 1/4" diebond (aluminum outer, plastic core) bonded to a 1/8" piece of diebond. Its not quite 3/8", but close enough for this. They really don't actually measure 1/4" and 1/8".

Bottom piece. The countersunk bolts will go toward the head side, studs go fender side. I may narrow it down a bit for clearance. I need to go a touch deeper with the countersink bit as one bolt is just a hair above the plate. Not much though.
P1280233.JPG


Head side with simulated studs. Stud length may change.
P1280244.JPG


TB adapter plate bolted on, NPT ports not complete yet, but pilot holes drilled:
P1280248.JPG


TB and throttle bracket spacer, needed for IAC clearance and adds a but more clearance for NPT ports:
P1280310.JPG


TB and throttle bracket bolted up:
P1280294.JPG


Top view:
P1280277.JPG
 
Nice work, keep it coming.
 
Its actually spelt Dibond. Its a trade name http://www.graphicdisplayusa.com/prod_dibond There are other companies that make something similar. Its fairly inexpensive, cuts easily and cleanly. Its great for stuff like this.
 
I was watching a car show recently and saw something about electric steering assist instead of hydraulic. With the addition of your blower would it be possible to delete the power steering pump and go electric? It seems that way you would have the easiest time deciding how to route the belt around the pullies... It'd probably be crazy expensive to change over, but heck you are already adding the sc...
 
Keithmania said:
I was watching a car show recently and saw something about electric steering assist instead of hydraulic. With the addition of your blower would it be possible to delete the power steering pump and go electric? It seems that way you would have the easiest time deciding how to route the belt around the pullies... It'd probably be crazy expensive to change over, but heck you are already adding the sc...
Click to expand...

Depends on which vehicle you stole it from, I know the current Avenger and 200 both use electric p/s, and I wouldn't be surprised if the Minivans and Journey's also use them. Not exactly sure if it's a motorized pump like a fuel pump or if it's an electric servo motor built into the rack assemblies for those vehicles. Not sure if that will find it's way onto the JK's with Pentastar motors though, which would likely be the best source for converting our XJ's over to electric p/s. Probably would be more work to wire the electric drive assembly into the truck itself!
 
streetxj said:
Or rig a junkyard turbo...
Click to expand...
I don't want a turbo.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlohbPrlhFA
Click to expand...
I guess you didn't see that it wasn't actually hooked up to the air intake?



The electric power steering pump is an interesting idea. It would also create more belt wrap on the SC. However, a quick google yielded prices of $500+. The pressure and volume would have to be matched to the stock pump, and sometimes those figures are hard to come by.

I already have a solution to the pump, PSC has a stock style pump with the fitting I need for around $180. It is a rebuilt (or new, didn't ask). I though about tapping the input for the fitting myself, but I would need a) a used pump, b) the seal kit. By that time I am around $70, and I can't find a rebuild kit so I would still have a used pump with new seals. I would probably also have to purchase the correct tap for it as I haven't seen one that size NPT at the machine shop.

Friday I talked to a welder that is certain he can weld the plate to the manifold. I was planning on welding a 3/8" plat like the rest then milling it flat. He was concerned that the warpage from welding would more than I expect so I he wants to use a 1/2" piece of aluminum. The other guy that I was waiting to call me was supposed to be some kind of welding expert... he didn't even have a TIG setup and recommended that I JB WELD the plate to the manifold. Some expert.

In other news the BMW AOS looks like it is working well. I won't know how well until I drain my original AOS and see if anything comes out of that. I also installed the Fringe XVO modified valve body today. It was too late to play musical cars and cargo by the time I was finished with the install and a few other things I needed to do. An impression will have wait until later this week.
 
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