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IslanderOffRoad's Axle Swap Thread

Could be alignment. Tire pressure isn't way high? I haven't had a sway bar in years, never really noticed anything.

I'll see if alignment and tire pressure help.

Thanks
 


Shapeways switch panel showed up... looks like they printed the wrong one. Was supposed to be 4 contura 2 oem, looks like I got 6 contura
 
Got it aligned again with the shorter UCA's and it drives much better... though the caster number from the alignment came back worse!

Not sure how that would be possible with the shorter uppers?

Debating taking it to a jeep shop to sort out and get to spec. Sounds like I may be adding adjustable lowers too
 
What is your caster at currently? Does it drive good now? Still issues?
Make sure to take PA into consideration also.
 
Unless your getting the alignments for free then you should be doing it your self.

Paid for a lifetime alignment a few years ago, so it's not costing me anything to take it there.

I know how to center a steeeing wheel on an xj, but was hoping to get a more accurate caster measurement than my angle finder
 
Stock specs for caster and toe are not always applicable once lift and larger tires are in play. Ive seem many people get way messed up by the lifetime alignment game. It will take less time to do it in your driveway and you will be able to fix it your self if something gets out of wack from wheeling.

Your build looks great by the way. Any more detailed pics of that long arm kit. When is IRO releasing that setup?

I will also be ordering one of those shapeways panels. The 3d printing world is pumping out some cool gadgets.
 
I don't have a long arm kit
 
Checked caster myself today, hard to read off the knuckle with the tires on but looked like negative 2 or 2.5 degrees.
 
So what im reading with negative caster is the upper ball joint is infront of the lower. It should deffinately be the other way around. So your going to need to shorten your upper arms a few inches to correct that much. You should be in the ballpark of 7-9 degrees positive(upper balljoint behind the lower).

Fyi this will also adjust your pinion to driveshaft angle as well and can cause driveline vibration if you go too far. On lifted rigs its often about finding a happy medium between handling and vibes. I would start with 5* and work your way up to 7* adjusting a little at a time.
 
So what im reading with negative caster is the upper ball joint is infront of the lower. It should deffinately be the other way around. So your going to need to shorten your upper arms a few inches to correct that much. You should be in the ballpark of 7-9 degrees positive(upper balljoint behind the lower).

Fyi this will also adjust your pinion to driveshaft angle as well and can cause driveline vibration if you go too far. On lifted rigs its often about finding a happy medium between handling and vibes. I would start with 5* and work your way up to 7* adjusting a little at a time.
This basically. IIRC when I had my new LCA mounts welded on and set caster it ended up around 4.5-5+. PA is cherry, so I left it.
 
So what im reading with negative caster is the upper ball joint is infront of the lower. It should deffinately be the other way around. So your going to need to shorten your upper arms a few inches to correct that much. You should be in the ballpark of 7-9 degrees positive(upper balljoint behind the lower).

Fyi this will also adjust your pinion to driveshaft angle as well and can cause driveline vibration if you go too far. On lifted rigs its often about finding a happy medium between handling and vibes. I would start with 5* and work your way up to 7* adjusting a little at a time.

I was wrong about negative... admittedly this stuff is outside of my comfort zone.

Upper ball joint is begind the lower. As my angle finder went counter clockwise from zero my assumption was negative.

Adjustable uppers are as short as they'll go. Lowers are fixed, guessing its time to go adjustable on them.

I'm about ready to pay a shop to dial this in
 
What's the right way to measure caster anyway
 
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