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I only want to go up 1"....

scott in NH

NAXJA Forum User
Ok, I have a 90 2-dr that had a 1” sag going in the back and I wanted just a little more clearance for some 235/75/15’s. So I took Eagle’s advice and put a full length Rancho AAL in back and a 1” coil spacer out front. This evened out to a lift 1” all the way around and over 4 years later, it still sits the same and I like the way it looks!
Now I have a 2000 4-dr that has NO sag, but I would like to lift it the same 1”. Yeah, I know, I know, but I do not have inchitis and I do not wheel. I do load it up to go skiing, and ski traffic moves right along, so not losing road manners is very important (upside down in the median is not where I want to find myself).
I also tow a boat, but my tongue weight is probably only 75 lbs (I put it on the ball by hand) and the boat/trailer probably weights 1000-1200 lbs, but some of the “ramps” I use look more like trails (steep and rocky)! I also use fire roads/dirt roads to get to some of the rock climbing I do. That’s it. It is my daily driver and goes on road trips too, so I am not willing to make the compromises you guys do because I will never use it the way some of you do. In other words it is a luxury vehicle and I want to keep it that way while adding just a little attitude.
It has the 16” wheels, which I like, and I just want to go up one tire size to a 235/70/16. So, a 1” coil up front is obvious enough, but what is the best way to only get an inch or maybe 1-1/4” in the back considering how I really use my Jeep? Block, shackle or AAL? If I go with the leaf, do I leave a stock leaf out to not get the 2” or? What brand AAL (you guys seem to hate them all)?
As always, thanks for your help,
Scott
 
Upcountry leaves should put you an inch higher & ride the same. JIM.
 
shackles. i think a stock MJ shackle will give you 1" . you probably wouldnt need a really HD aftermarket 1.25" shackle.
 
Your in almost the exact same situation I'm in with my 2000 (wifes dd). Here's what I'd do after many hours of research and thought. In the front I'd use a 1.75” coil spacer without the factory isolator. From what I understand that should net about 1”. For the rear I'd use an extra second longest leaf from an XJ spring pack cut down enough that it fits under the current second longest leaf in the spring pack. This should net about an inch of lift in the rear. I bet this method will ride nicer than any other suggested (sans the OME route which would net you 2” not 1”), be less prone to additional sagging, be among the easiest to install, and only cost about $80 in parts. I'll be using full length poly spring liners in my packs to let them flex better and ride smoother and that adds $40-$50 too the cost but they aren't necessary. If after this is done it doesn't sit as level as you would like this lift can be leveled pretty easily by adding another leaf (from a stock pack) in the rear and/or adding the stock coil isolator back in the front. I may just try with two leafs added in the rear leave the isolators in the front first and see how that looks/rides myself but I'm not dead set on lifting only 1”. I'll be running 30”x9.5 r15 AT tires.
 
BlueGerbil said:
I´d buy a 2" OME. Handles better than stock IMO.

x2

I have mine lifted about 8" with a custom long arm and beadlocks. I still consider mine road worthy. and have driven it to seattle several times (about 180 miles) so any lift you want to put on it can be made to work well on the road, although not always cheap.

all that aside you won't really lose any road manners going up to about 3" but i would agree with the OME stuff, very good on road behavior. I would run alot of there stuff if it would fit.

The height can be countered with larger wheels (eliminates sidewall flex) good shocks, and keeping the swaybars intact (both of them) if your really bored and want a challenge you could swap out all the bushings for urethane. the flex less so will keep the body roll to a minumim. with the correct ofset in you wheels there's no reason a 3" lift can't handle better on road than a stock XJ will. over 3" you start running into control arm issues, and the ride will suffer.

Come on go 3".

You know you want to.

Dingo
 
Dingo509 said:
x2

I have mine lifted about 8" with a custom long arm and beadlocks. I still consider mine road worthy. and have driven it to seattle several times (about 180 miles) so any lift you want to put on it can be made to work well on the road, although not always cheap.

all that aside you won't really lose any road manners going up to about 3" but i would agree with the OME stuff, very good on road behavior. I would run alot of there stuff if it would fit.

The height can be countered with larger wheels (eliminates sidewall flex) good shocks, and keeping the swaybars intact (both of them) if your really bored and want a challenge you could swap out all the bushings for urethane. the flex less so will keep the body roll to a minumim. with the correct ofset in you wheels there's no reason a 3" lift can't handle better on road than a stock XJ will. over 3" you start running into control arm issues, and the ride will suffer.

Come on go 3".

You know you want to.

Dingo

All very true my 94 at 3" handels better than it did stock, but remember he has a 2000 he could open a can of worms going to 3" and end up needing a sye.
 
semisynth said:
All very true my 94 at 3" handels better than it did stock, but remember he has a 2000 he could open a can of worms going to 3" and end up needing a sye.

I dunno SYE's are sometimes overrated for on road guys. Yes off road you need them just for the simple fact you can remove the driveline and not spill fluid. But i think with 3" if he swaps to a wrangler slipyoke and has the driveline modified to get the correct length he should be okay. this is assuming that a wrangler slip yoke can be used on a 2k?

With that said If it where me i would do and SYE anyway. Especially on a 2k becuase there fairly cheap (hack and tap). And im guessing that's all he needs since I doubt he spends much time in low range at max torque output with his tires hopelessly wedged between rocks like most of us do.

Wow that's alot of ASSuMEing there.

Dingo
 
You guys are great! But I think you can see the dilemna, I know everything is a trade off....
I want to keep it simple, so I would prefer not to replace the entire spring pack.

I want to kep it cheap, even if I accepted that a 3" lift is safe, I don't off road, so I can't see spending money on equipment I won't use (the kids would dig it though!), and I do not want to get into drive train vibe issues.

I have the ability to cut down a spring, but not the desire to go find one. AAL are cheap enough, I like boxes showing up at work with new parts (who doesn't!), but it is sounding more and more like that is the way to go....

From what I've read, I think I would go with a 1" block before I would go with shackles. I don't think I use it hard enough for the block to be an issue.

Keep the opinions coming though!
 
Considering all the options out there and your not wheelin you might consider a budget boost lift. Rusty's , Rubicon Express,Daystar all make a good budget lift most net around 1.75' of lift started out that way before inchitis set in and now im at 4.5". I think Rusty's is less then a $100 can use stock shocks.
Hope this helps.
 
The Upcountry and OME 2" or 3" lifts are all good - pays your money and takes your choice is the phrase that comes to mind. OME come with springs rated for light, medium and heavy duty applications for no extra cost, so they're certainly worth thinking about. As far as work goes, what sounds like more work: replacing the whole spring set (2 bolts at unibody and 4 at the axle) in one, or breaking the pack, putting in an AAL and putting it all back together again - with new leaf retainers?

Whilst it's certainly cheaper to go with an add-a-leaf than a new spring pack, you're looking at possibly putting in a shorter term option which might sag sooner, and the faffing around with clamps and flying bolts might put some people off. As for the front, Upcountry/ ZJ V8 coils will get you an inch, but so will coil spacers.

There's a lot of stuff to find on budget boosts, and everyone's got their own opinion - and bank balance.

Good luck with whatever you choose! :thumbup:
 
Less than $100 and stock shocks are part of what I have in mind. The problem with the typical 2" BB is that it doesn't look right without 30's. Look at the picture of my 90 (for sale by the way), to my eye, 1" looks perfect with 29" tall tires....Maybe a picayune point, but not much is uglier than a jeep with too much lift for the tires!....
 
scott in NH said:
You guys are great! But I think you can see the dilemna, I know everything is a trade off....
I want to keep it simple, so I would prefer not to replace the entire spring pack.

I want to kep it cheap, even if I accepted that a 3" lift is safe, I don't off road, so I can't see spending money on equipment I won't use (the kids would dig it though!), and I do not want to get into drive train vibe issues.

I have the ability to cut down a spring, but not the desire to go find one. AAL are cheap enough, I like boxes showing up at work with new parts (who doesn't!), but it is sounding more and more like that is the way to go....

From what I've read, I think I would go with a 1" block before I would go with shackles. I don't think I use it hard enough for the block to be an issue.

Keep the opinions coming though!

Scott, You have several options here the 2 best i can come up with is this.

Option 1 Cheap
Find a 1" coil spacer (i have a set of 1" steel ones available) and then find a set of MJ shackles. I have never heard of a shackle causing the springs to sag, they will with a block. The rear will ride softer with a longer shackle, this is becasue of the increased mechanical advantage of the longer shackle. As far as not using it hard enough to do damage with the block, well you do step on the gas right? Even moderate Throttle can cause the springs to wrap up and this will cause them so sag. AAL's IMO are not worth it becasue although cheap you're asking one leaf to hold the vehicle higher this is increasing the spring rate and making it stiffer. Better for cornering but not as good in a straight line. You could use stock shocks but it's some what common knowledge that swapping in quality shocks will help the ride. I would look to either OME or Edelbrock for these i have personally drove a 99 XJ before and after swapping in the edelbrocks shocks and it was a very noticable difference.

Option 2 Best IMHO
Look to OME. you have 2 options here though too. the light duty stuff will give a very soft ride and handle good too. The medium duty stuff will increase the handling of the XJ but at a slight loss of ride quality. Basically look at it this way, the stiffer the spring the better the handling but the worse the ride. Example; "european handling" packages are available for a lot of cars now the diiference is a slighter stiffer yet more controlled ride. Thing about your typical BMW VS Cadillac, the BWM has a stiffer ride but better handling.

In any case i would swap to 16" light weight wheels, the lighter the better. The less rotating weight you have the btter acceleration and braking you will have. this will help ofset the height of the 30" tire you know you want. I don't know the numbers of the top of my head but i think it's something like a 10 lbs savings in rotatng weight is equal to a 100 saving in vehicle weight. I would also swap in urethane bushings for the swaybars and there end links. If you don't have a rear swaybar, get one it will help handling not alot but it will help. If you can find one get a upcoutry front swaybar, these are 28MM bars and will help as well.

Let us know what you decide.

Dingo
 
Scott, you're in the same boat i am. I have an '01, and have been doing alot of research and have decided to go with the Rubicon Express 2" lift with AAL, #RE6160 (http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynamic/mainpage.asp?folderid=185). I have increased my rubber to 30x9.5's which fit perfectly, have no rub, and gave it a little height, and with the lift kit i should be right where i want it. The reason for the AAL is the added firmness when i add weight to the back when the family goes on a trip. The block and shackles don't give you the added firmness which it sounds like you were looking for. Like you, i don't do alot of rock crawling, it's my daily driver, and i don't have "inchitis", and after all the reading, posting, and looking, this has come to be the best answer. If there is driveline vibe, look into rusty's crossmember. It gives you the 1" transfer drop without sacrificing clearance. All in all, i figure this will put the cherokee right where i want.
Hope this helps.
 
Certainly everyone here holds the RE kits in high regard, and sure, I guess a part of me would be ok with 30's. But considering gas mileage, road holding, ride, COST and personal LABOR (I know the AAL and spacers are relatively qucick and easy), I want to keep it cheap, comparatively low, simple and safe!
I really like the factory 16" alloys and have every intention of keeping them/ I like the look of a little more rim and a little less tire compared to what I had.
I haven't been under my 01 yet, but it has very recent, shiny black shocks and steering stabilizer on it (haven't seen if there is a name on them yet), so I don't plan on changing shocks. I went pretty much all out to get this Jeep, but I kept some in reserve, but not enough to go nuts. I need tires, the street tires just won't cut it. I need at least a ski rack, but preferable a cargo box, I kinda need nerf or running boards to reach the rack/box (have you ever wiped out on the door sills?). I may need to put a hitch on it right away to move my boat (or maybe still take it out a time or two)....
So I'm thinking Dunlop RVxt 235/70/16 (was very happy in the snow, rain, everywhere I went with them in my 90, good price too). 1" coil spacer up front (though maybe the ZJ spring, how does it ride/handle?) and I guess I need to find a factory spring to cut, though tell me what would be wrong with a shorty AAL for my app?
 
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