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I don't get it...tires..pellets...big issues

You are correct about the nitrogen in the air we breathe, but that 1/5 of oxygen honestly is enough to cause issues such as these below. (It's boring, but true)

Oxygen and moisture corrodes aluminum and steel wheels. Oxygen also reacts with rubber, another type of "corrosion". When this corrosion starts, the small particles break off and form rust and dust, which can clog vavle cores, causing them to leak. The rough surfaces created from the corrosive action on the wheels leads to tire beads that don't seal properly, causing additional leaks . Oxygen also ages the inner liner, the thin layer of rubber inside the tire whose function is to keep air away from the carcass. As the inner liner ages, more and more air molecules can pass through it, causing more pressure losses. These pressure losses in a truck tire can average 2 psi a month as a result of the air passing through the sidewalls. As it passes through the rubber, the oxygen can also corrode the steel cords, causing them to rust too

While both nitrogen and oxygen can permeate rubber, nitrogen does it much more slowly. It might take 6 months to lose 2 psi with nitrogen, compared to just a month with air. And nitrogen is far less reactive. It doesn't cause rust or corrosion on steel or aluminum, and it doesn't degrade rubber. Wheel surfaces stay smooth and clean, rubber remains supple and resilient.

Water!! The air around us is full of water vapor. Compressing air concentrates the water in it. Draining the water from your compressor tank daily helps, but unless you have a really efficient air dryer system, chances are that there's a lot of water in your compressed air. When you compress air, it takes up much less volume, but the percentage of water by volume is greatly increased.

Water vapor in compressed air acts as a catalyst, accelerating rust and corrosion. Water vapor also absorbs and holds heat. And when it changes from liquid to vapor, water expands tremendously in volume. As a result, tires inflated with wet air tend to run hotter and fluctuate in pressure more. That's one of the reasons why racing tires, where fractions of a psi can radically change the handling characteristics, are inflated with dry nitrogen.
 
So if I'm reading this correctly, let's say my tires are uneven because of bad alignment, etc that the weights on there overcompensated for. So now taking off the weights, I am dealing with the true tire. How long before the tire goes back to normal shape?

I run this Jeep for right now, since it's my only vehicle, about 85% onroad. So if after putting in another oz or couple ounces of pellets, nothing works, should I start to expect something else...should I just think uneven tire wear and wait it out?

And what is correct psi for these tires then? On the sidewalls I'm pretty sure it reads 40 max psi, but on Interco's website it reads 35 max psi...so what gives?

Thanks,

Chris
 
Does the place use a vacuum on the wheel/tire assembly and suck out all the air before they put in the nitrogen?
You don't need nitriogen.
Seriously, they saw you coming from a mile away.
Anyone who told you to use nitrogen, shouldn't be someone you take advice from.


Race cars- they are constantly under extreme temps, so to aid in keeping the tire from expanding that 1/8", they fill with nitrogen.
Bicyclists- the rubber in the tubes leaks air through pores. Nitrogen won't.
Army- who knows? I guess they believed the same guy you did.
NASA- space shuttle tires get very hot, when they land. The Nitrogen won't expand.
Airplanes- see above.
Truck drivers- higher temps and loads, but they still don't need nitrogen.

# More consistent tire pressure.- in bikes and crappy tires.
# Reduced wheel corrosion.- only if you plan on having your wheels for 20 years, not to mention, where are you getting air from that doesn't have an inline water seperator.
# Prevents inner-liner rubber deterioration due to oxidation.- been a problem for your parents, friends, or anyone else you know?:dunno:
# Tires run cooler.- Todays tires are manufactured to NOT completely destroy themselves due to 1-2psi changes
# Increases tread life.- This one's a good one. How does element that's inside the tire control tread wear?
# Increases fuel mileage.- see above.
# Helps prevent uneven wear .- see above.

Seriously, unless you're bringing your XJ in for a landing, hauling 150,000lbs, driving in excess of 150mph, or running on bicycle tires, leave the snake oil to the pros and buy yourself something off the value menu for being so smart.
 
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Double Down said:
Alright gotcha on the nitrogen piece and really don't feel like getting into a discussion about this, just trying to figure out the wheel issue and DW issue.

Thanks,

Chris
Arighty then, you have Interco tires.
Balancing an Interco tire with 8.5 ounces of weight doesn't happen often.
There was a "massive amount of weights" on the wheel for a reason.
Add more weight and enjoy the ride.
 
Okay, just to play stupid (which I guess I am doing pretty well :) when you say add more weight, you mean more pellets or actual weights with the pellets inside, etc? And yeah, there were a ton of weights on those tires, so again, humor me, what are you thinking for amount of pellets inside for a good start?

Thanks,

Chris
 
Now that you have the pellets in there, a shop will not be able to balance them on a machine. The machine does not provide enough centrificle force to force the beads into place. So if you want to go back to weights your gonna have to get the airsoft out,to have them rebalanced. And like OT said they are gonna take more than 8.5 oz. I had to put almost 15 in my STL's.
 
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/BigTirechart.htm



* Any tire sizes marked with this symbol have an aspect ratio well below 70.
If possible, these tires should be checked for lateral imbalance before installing beads.

In cases of lateral imbalance, you should run the beads in conjunction with the weights.
 
Double Down said:
And what is correct psi for these tires then? On the sidewalls I'm pretty sure it reads 40 max psi, but on Interco's website it reads 35 max psi...so what gives?

Thanks,

Chris


To be honest its every jeeper for themselves on this one, takes some practice and a few tries to get right. When I was running 33's I would run 28 front and 26 rear down the highway, and possibly 29-30 all the way around if long highway, high speeds, driving. And now with 35's I am running 26 all the way around, during every day driving and then 28-29 all the way around when long highway, high speed, driving. I should have lower pressures with the 35's except now I have a heavy front bumper, winch, rear bumper/tire carrier. What I am trying to say is try it. For every day driving you want a full contact patch, for even wear, and highway I just try to get the center and beginning of the out tread block on the ground, smaller contact patch, less rolling resistance, well in theory anyways.
 
Double Down said:
# More consistent tire pressure.
# Reduced wheel corrosion.
# Prevents inner-liner rubber deterioration due to oxidation.
# Tires run cooler.
# Increases tread life.
# Increases fuel mileage.
# Helps prevent uneven wear .

I'm with everyone else. This use of nitrogen wasn't intended for daily use.

Let's see, the racers use it, not because of consitent tire pressure, but because of the consitent expansion rate.

Tires run cooler than What? Have you seen how hot they are when they come off of the track. I don't buy it that the nitrogen will help keep your big lugs on your MTs any cooler.

How does it increase the tread life?

How does it increase fuel mileage?

If you use regular air, and check your tires often, you won't get uneven wear, how does nitrogen help this.

I'm gonna call SPOBI on this one.
 
# More consistent tire pressure. - you must not wheel it if you aren't adjusting the pressure every trip!!

# Reduced wheel corrosion. - Do you ever get them dirty, it does the same thing. Has anyone ever seen a wheel become unusable by corroding from the inside out?? (I haven't, and I worked at a tire store)

# Prevents inner-liner rubber deterioration due to oxidation. - Never seen that problem either and they've been filling them with air since they were invented. Wouldn't the rubber on the outside deteriorate as well??

# Tires run cooler. - How so?? Do they get pretty hot on the trails you run??

# Increases tread life. - How so??
# Increases fuel mileage. - How so??
# Helps prevent uneven wear . - How so?? So does only using them on the street and never running over rocks, etc.. on the trails.

One benefit you forgot: It helps the economy because niave people such as yourself pay the shops to fill them with snake oil.

So after a wheeling trip, do you drive clear to town with aired down tires to have them refilled? Or do you carry nitrogen with you?? Oh wait, I guess the mall isn't very far away from the tire store.
 
I know that there are people out there running the bb's at great success, but I for one do not like them. I found that once they were balanced at speed, if you hit a pot hole, you're done. The bb's slid because of the violent motion and never could find it back to the origional spot unless I slowed down to around 45mph. Not so great where I'm at because of the pot holes and the speeds we drive at on the interstate. Also, I found that the noise annoyed the hell out of me. Something about the bb's hitting the aluminum rims and sounding like a 4 year old on his bike with those clicky spoke things. Just annoying if you ask me.
 
1996cc said:
# Reduced wheel corrosion. - Do you ever get them dirty, it does the same thing. Has anyone ever seen a wheel become unusable by corroding from the inside out?? (I haven't, and I worked at a tire store)
Yes, had a trailer tire rot the wheel out from the inside.
 
I can see it with a trailer tire - they never get ANY maintenance what so ever. And the wheels could be from so and so's uncle who got them from billy' jo's grandpa who bought them just after the first world war.
 
well it was sitting behind a shed for a few years and was full of water when i took it apart :D
 
53guy said:
I know that there are people out there running the bb's at great success, but I for one do not like them. I found that once they were balanced at speed, if you hit a pot hole, you're done. The bb's slid because of the violent motion and never could find it back to the origional spot unless I slowed down to around 45mph. Not so great where I'm at because of the pot holes and the speeds we drive at on the interstate. Also, I found that the noise annoyed the hell out of me. Something about the bb's hitting the aluminum rims and sounding like a 4 year old on his bike with those clicky spoke things. Just annoying if you ask me.

I wouldn't run metal BBs, not after I saw what they did to a tire. A friend ran them, and they ate at the inside of the tire, and tore up the bead.

I'm going to try the Airsoft BBs. A couple of people are having success with them in their 36s and Qs. Big tires.
 
Trailbst said:
I wouldn't run metal BBs, not after I saw what they did to a tire. A friend ran them, and they ate at the inside of the tire, and tore up the bead.

I'm going to try the Airsoft BBs. A couple of people are having success with them in their 36s and Qs. Big tires.


That's what I ran, the white airsoft bb's. They sounded goofy as hell and never really gave me the results I was looking for.
 
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