High steer options

[Beezil]

i was talking about the draglink. I wanted to show the arm on top of the knuckle.

 

[ChuckD]

Good effort CCCJ, Jus keep working it, it will get there. Keep us informed on how it's coming along.

 

[Gary E]

attention Unkown Scrap and others running the trackbar in the old steering stabilizer postion. This is no good, Mine lasted one summer than the cracks came. The steering stabilizer mount is not strong enough for a trackbar mount, The first place I noticed cracks was looking up from the bottom where the trackbar used to mount.

I have since rebuilt the mount to be much stouter I have it all finished and will be reassembling today.

 

[BIG98XJ]

XJCHUCK72....

Id hate to sound like a dumbazz, steering is not my experteice, since your running stock nuckles Id like to do mine exactly like yours, if you could tell me every single part I need to make this work I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks Kerry

 

[Gary E]

personally I would use chevy TRE stuff, its very heavy duty and TREs will last a long time where heim joints go sloppy pretty quick in my experiance.

I am using waggy steering its good but has a lot of roll in it. The Chevy stuff would be better.

 

[FarmerMatt]

You're using junk heims Gary. Mine are tight after 3 years of use, although I do all my hardcore wheeling with beez on da web.

Matt

 

[vintagespeed]

attention Unkown Scrap and others running the trackbar in the old steering stabilizer postion. This is no good, Mine lasted one summer than the cracks came. The steering stabilizer mount is not strong enough for a trackbar mount, The first place I noticed cracks was looking up from the bottom where the trackbar used to mount.

I have since rebuilt the mount to be much stouter I have it all finished and will be reassembling today.

The TB and TB mounting take a hell of a pounding while wheeling, any big tires are going to multiply the amount of stress on the mounts. The dampner mount is like 1/8" thick & 3 sided? Common guys cut the stock crap off & build a real mount out of some 1/4" or 3/16" minimum.

 

[vintagespeed]

CCCJ, the mount height is a little ambitious. The higher you raise the draglink away from the steering arm, the more leverage the axle will have against it. This will lead to broken parts and difficult extractions to say the least.

I've heard of mounts like this made and working well but at a much lower height above the stock steering arm. You're just NOT going to get a flat tie-rod on a lifted D30.

Try making it the same height as the Tera hi-steer knuckle and you'll probably be ok, they didn't go higher than that and theirs is cast as one piece.......that should tell you something.

Good luck.

 

[JEEPZZ]

Here's my bolt on homebrew solution to high steer -or- crossover -or- ...whatever it's called.

 

[cccj]

Like I said before, I revised it after some testing. I shortened it and added a gusset. Now it works great with no movement and tight turning radius. Oh yeah it cost around $5 compared to $500.

 

[ChuckD]

I can a least respect your work, since I have none really to spek of, anyway, if there is a way to scan some templates I would appreciate it.

Hit me on the back channels for my addy.

 

[ChuckD]

Re: XJCHUCK72....

Id hate to sound like a dumbazz, steering is not my experteice, since your running stock nuckles Id like to do mine exactly like yours, if you could tell me every single part I need to make this work I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks Kerry

That's UnknownScrap's old junk, not mine. I just took pictures of his stuff. I like what he did, and may go that rout soon. The good Heims are pretty expensive. You also have to drill, this usually isn't very fun, definitely at a 3/4" dia.

 

[ChuckD]

Like I said before, I revised it after some testing. I shortened it and added a gusset. Now it works great with no movement and tight turning radius. Oh yeah it cost around $5 compared to $500.

On your rims what's the Back Spacing?

 

[cccj]

another view

And CCCJ, that thing is scary all the materials seem way too thin, and I don't even want to start on design...

It's .250" steel, welded everywhere and I made the best of the space provided.

CC, that thing scares me. I used to be afraid to drive my rig at sometimes! But dear lord, I would be afraid to drive the same road as that jeep! Sorry for the bluntness.

Your angled rod ends on your steering, especially pitman arm, scare me.

CCCJ, the mount height is a little ambitious. The higher you raise the draglink away from the steering arm, the more leverage the axle will have against it. This will lead to broken parts and difficult extractions to say the least. I've heard of mounts like this made and working well but at a much lower height above the stock steering arm.

Yup, I learned mine was too far on the test drive. I've cut it back and down now and it works great.

You're just NOT going to get a flat tie-rod on a lifted D30.

Huh? This tie rod looks to be perfectly flat. Now the drag link, that's about and inch and a half lower at the knuckle.

 

[cccj]

I just measured one; it's 3.75" back spacing.

 

[BIG98XJ]

UnknownScrap....

What parts do I need to run your set up??!! I need to do something bout this asap! Thank Kerry

 

[Jump This]

Well....as the official weld review tech. (okay...so I am not that official) I like CCCJ's beads. I would like some more tire clearance myself though. Simple fix though....
I still don't know why change the stock set up at all .....
I just bring along a floor jack to straighten out my tie rods after every trip!!
and only run 5" of lift with 32" tires.....

prime thread....

 

[vintagespeed]

Huh? This tie rod looks to be perfectly flat. Now the drag link, that's about and inch and a half lower at the knuckle.

Yeah, I burned out a few brain cells today starring at my monitor at work......doh! :doh:

Keep up the R & D, these guys may all be buying from you someday.

 

[Matt S.]

Gary. Yea I totally agree with mounting the TB in that position. but i HAD to work with what i had at that time, which wasn't much!

Kerry. Honestly I do not remeber exact stuff. but I gave the metal sizes and stuff, which may have been over kill, but good overkill IMO.

Maybe someone can chime in here on the math stuff, but you need to measure your tact bar mounts to the ground. Then do some math stuff and vuwala. Maybe someone already has drawing and such for explanations.

But any one understand what I just said???

MATT

 

[vintagespeed]

Ideally, and with a coil front XJ almost impossible to do, your draglink and trackbar would be the same length and mounted the same distance apart at the axle as at the frame. The mounting heights are about the same at the frame end, unless there is a dropped pitman, so the challenge is in the axle ends and where to put them. If they are different lengths they will travel in different arcs and will cause bumpsteer. If the axle ends are a different distance apart in height from the frame end, you will have bumpsteer.

All you can really do is get as close as possible OR build an inverted Y steering which is easier to match the TB length.