• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Hack n Tap

Can't hurt to install now. Just make sure you get a shaft with enough travel that it will work with your next lift.
 
what height are you at now? I'm planning on doing this soon with a front ds. I'm at 3", but want to be at about 4.5 in the rear soon, keepin the front at 3.5.

I've never done one myself, but from what I've heard they are pretty simple. Just make one clean cut, drill one hole, tap it and you're there. Ofcourse, you have to make a good cut and drill the hole on center.
 
kscherokee said:
4.5 going to 6.5 I hope.
yeah, but what happens if you are not just perfectly centered on the whole
Click to expand...
The splines "center" the flange not the bolt.It doesnt have to be perfect.
 
All the bolt does is keep the H&T on the output shaft. If your thinking it will throw the balance off if it's not perfectly centered........Get it as close as you can. Thousands of other guys have done this without putting it on a lathe, just doing it under the rig. Just get it centered as close as you can and you'll be fine.
 
kscherokee said:
I was thinking a front driveshaft. Wont that work?
Click to expand...

What rearend/TC do you have?

I was going to use the H&T for my 242/ D35 and a front DS was about 1.5in too short.
Lots of guys runnng a front shaft with the 231 / 8.25 combo.

To use a front shaft, you'll need the flange adapter. Spicer # 211229x
 
kscherokee said:
231 and a c8.25
Click to expand...

You should be good to go then. I know ILLXJ is running a front (DS 231/ 8.25) and he is at around 6" as well. Keep in mind that there are different lengths of front DS, as well. You'll want one from a AW4/231, IIRC.
 
you might price the Tom Woods kit while you are at it. big debate i know, but i do think Tom's extra strength at the new tailpiece would be preferable. should be better support for the extra weight of a heavier d-shaft. i too have been tryin to figure out which kit to buy?
 
Dont forget you need a auto which is longer than a manual which shortens the rear distance with either a d44 or 8.25 which will still leave you with a less than perfect length as the distance is still greater ( around 2" on the above combo's ) than what the driveshaft was made to run at as far as spline engagement on the front. You can 'get away' with it as many do but after hearing from a friend of mine how his mate was killed using too short a driveshaft, I wont do it myself.
What happened with him was that he got air off the back of a dune and the rear driveshaft dropped out due to being too short a shaft when at full extension. As he came down the driveshaft dug into the dune and flipping him onto his roof and crushing him to death.
I have had a front slip yoke split apart on a Hilux when at full droop too due to not being enough spline engagement. So even if it does not drop out when you jack the rear up to full droop does not mean it cant fall out this way.
Not saying this will happen to any of those using a front shaft but something to be mindful of just the same.
 
just make sure your dead center and use a centerpunch, the drill will drill dead center, ive been running one for 2 years no problems/vibes from off balance. i also have a dreaded RE driveshaft thats been goin strong.
 
hack and tap is easy. just be sure to get a nice new bit to make a pilot hole. that output shaft is very hard to drill at first. mine is not centered at all. i even had to make the hole on the hack and tap slightly bigger so the bolt would fit, however i have had no problems with it. take your time use plenty of cutting oil and you'll be fine. chock your jeep leave it in 2wd with the rear shaft off already and put it in Drive while you cut the rear shaft, makes things a lot easier. mark it with some tape so you can see where to cut. took me 2 days just because i started late one night and no stores were open to go get a good drill bit. mine i had were not near sharp enough. shouldn't take more than a few hours with all the right tools though.
 
Ramsey said:
hack and tap is easy. just be sure to get a nice new bit to make a pilot hole. that output shaft is very hard to drill at first. mine is not centered at all. i even had to make the hole on the hack and tap slightly bigger so the bolt would fit, however i have had no problems with it. take your time use plenty of cutting oil and you'll be fine. chock your jeep leave it in 2wd with the rear shaft off already and put it in Drive while you cut the rear shaft, makes things a lot easier. mark it with some tape so you can see where to cut. took me 2 days just because i started late one night and no stores were open to go get a good drill bit. mine i had were not near sharp enough. shouldn't take more than a few hours with all the right tools though.
Click to expand...

RE now provides the Drill Bit AND the tap for you to make it a quick 1 hour job. couple of dewault cutting wheels and your set
 
You still need a starter bit. JIM.
 
just do your best to get it in the center, but dont lose any sleep if its not perfect. Mine is off center about an 1/8 of an inch and gives me no probs for over 2 years now. I used a circular saw with a cuttoff blade on it. It worked great becase the circular saw helps with keeping the cut nice and straight.
And watch getting the shaft too hot, you can weaken the shaft if you just try and blaze right through it, so take your time or cool it off with a hose if need be.

And if you really screw up you can always just order an all new shaft kit for like 200 bucks, plus whatever a case of beer costs, and get a buddy to come over and help tear apart your tc. its really not that bad, but you defineatly wont name any future kids "snap rings"
 
skyjackedxj96 said:
RE now provides the Drill Bit AND the tap for you to make it a quick 1 hour job. couple of dewault cutting wheels and your set
Click to expand...
Id love to see a link/URL for that kit, Im interested!

Somone please post for us?

TIA,
Andrew
 
kscherokee said:
rubicon express

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynamic/mainpage.asp?folderid=208
Click to expand...

Many thanks there sir!

It does look like it still needs some more parts, like a yoke? Where do we get that, how much?

I know this is likely covered in other threads, the concept is mostly, with a cut off wheel (etc) you shorten the shaft, then center punch the end, drill it, tap it, and put a yoke adapter directly on the shaft? Correct?

I think I can handle that! HAHA!

Andrew
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
rock it filter
Replies
5
Views
384
Mgtawt
M
B
Dana 30 arb locker question.
Replies
13
Views
247
Bmfinney
B
O
SYE vs Fixed Yoke spline geometry
Replies
7
Views
3K
RCP Phx
R
D
Specific Moab Wheel On XJ
Replies
16
Views
243
DirtySouthXJ
D
V
Engine rebuild guidance
2
Replies
34
Views
6K
RCP Phx
R
Back
Top