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fusible link replacement for battery cable upgrade

Just installed truck LED headlights. Plan on adding some hella's in case LEDs freeze up in the cold and get dim. Take long trips and like my music so a larger amp for sound. Getting a hand held CB for birthday so no draw there. Then there's the ? Of a winch. I'm more of an expedition off-roader and have never been bad enough that a come along couldn't get me out. I do like the idea of a smaller winch that can be attached in the bumper tow hitch receptacle. Portable, my rig is also a daily driver. So I guess the lights, the stereo amp, and occasional winch, would be my increase in accessories. in your opinion, would the Grand Cherokee alternator upgrade be overkill with my situation? (Referring to my '99 classic with all the bells and whistles. My 89 was killed by a rookie driving a semi across two lanes😡. Just when I got it fixed where I wanted.)
 
... Is sized to the amperage capacity of the conductor (wire/cable) in question. If your wire/cable can handle 100 AMPS, put a 100 AMP fuse on it. If the wire/cable can safely carry 200 AMPS, size the fuse accordingly.

Was thinking #2 for starter & grounds & #4 for alternator. Is that overkill?
 
Grounds are often overlooked, yet, are very important.

I just rewired my MJ, I used multiple grounds, I utilized an unused stud on the chassis as a new ground point.

You are better off running a couple more grounds than you are relying on larger wire. Also, do not rely on the chassis as a ground point for anything critical, you will always want a ground wire directly back to the source/battery.



Ground your alt, independently.
 
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Grounds are often overlooked, yet, are very important.

I just rewired my MJ, I used multiple grounds, I utilized an unused stud on the chassis as a new ground point.

You are better off running a couple more grounds than you are relying on larger wire. Also, do not rely on the chassis as a ground point for anything critical, you will always want a ground wire directly back to the source/battery.



Ground your alt, independently.

Still hunting info... found this link http://www.olypen.com/craigh/charge.htm

And from another site was told this: If your stock alt was the 117 amp, the current cabling and fusible link will be fine with 136 under normal use. The wiring isn't going to see additional current just because the alternator is capable of supplying more of it, you'd have to increase the load as well. Nothing will change if you merely swap alternators. If you add a bunch of lights, a couple of big amps, a George Foreman grill in the back...that increases the load and you may want to upgrade the wiring.

If you DO need to upgrade, you have to upgrade the fusible link AND all the wiring it protects. Currently there is 6ga wire from the alt to the battery, protected by a 10ga fusible link. Merely upsizing the fusible link leaves the wiring itself vulnerable.
Any thoughts?
 
I'm all for replacing 15 year old battery and alternator cables as they degrade over time (oxidation/corrosion), but much more than stock simply isn't needed, larger atl or not. I can see a gauge or two upgrade just for kicks if changing them anyway, but this whole business of adding larger cables and a fusible links to the PDC.... I don't get it.
 
Still hunting info... found this link http://www.olypen.com/craigh/charge.htm

And from another site was told this: If your stock alt was the 117 amp, the current cabling and fusible link will be fine with 136 under normal use. The wiring isn't going to see additional current just because the alternator is capable of supplying more of it, you'd have to increase the load as well. Nothing will change if you merely swap alternators. If you add a bunch of lights, a couple of big amps, a George Foreman grill in the back...that increases the load and you may want to upgrade the wiring.

If you DO need to upgrade, you have to upgrade the fusible link AND all the wiring it protects. Currently there is 6ga wire from the alt to the battery, protected by a 10ga fusible link. Merely upsizing the fusible link leaves the wiring itself vulnerable.
Any thoughts?

Two groups of people-

People who have problems.............people who solve problems.




I did not merely swap alts, mine is 105 amps at idle.

For those of us who run....Efans, trailer lights, trailer brakes, aux lights, light bars, amps.........etc........a 10g fusible link is not adequate.


Run through the forums, any Jeep forum, the most common complaint/problem, aside from over heating, is electrical.

I have no electrical problems.



Also, I too, went to the 175amp Mega fuse.........easy to replace, accessible anywhere.
Get rid of the fusible link and make sure your alt is isolated.
 
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Two groups of people-
For those of us who run....Efans, trailer lights, trailer brakes, aux lights, light bars, amps.........etc........a 10g fusible link is not adequate.

You are pulling 100A+ through your PDA?

Did you also add appropriate sized wiring and fuses to the PDA for all those accessories or are you running them through circuits meant for the components already on them? And how are those oem components that needed smaller fuses now being protected?

Speaking of solving problems...aux fuse box/boxes with appropriate sized wiring and fuses for the non oem accessories. Done.
 
You are pulling 100A+ through your PDA?

Did you also add appropriate sized wiring and fuses to the PDA for all those accessories or are you running them through circuits meant for the components already on them? And how are those oem components that needed smaller fuses now being protected?

Speaking of solving problems...aux fuse box/boxes with appropriate sized wiring and fuses for the non oem accessories. Done.

Jeep wiring size (stock) is insufficient, (see headlight threads).

So, you added load without increasing load capacity?

Yes, I also used aux fuse panel for extras.


No PDC, Renix, but it matters not, stock load for stock accessories is on the other side of the PDC.
 
So, you added load without increasing load capacity?

New oem battery and starter cables (and much of the harness) and a yellow top AGM battery. Somehow it manages despite my ignorance. None of my added load is through the PDC/oem fuse box. Dedicated wiring to a aux fuse box fed directly by the batter.
 
Sorry to dredge this thread back up, but I figure it's better than a new post on the same topic.

I'm doing the wiring upgrades to 1/0 cable, and (supposedly) have a 117amp alternator in the XJ.

Just to double check, a 125amp fuse like this one would be appropriate, correct? Littelfuse MEG125 Fuse
 
1/0 is completely necessary especially for 125 amp fuse; 4 gauge can safely handle up to 150 amps.

Cables are already order and on the way, and the stock 117 amp is only staying put until I put in a bigger one.

So the 1/0 cables are part of the upgrade path for me, regardless of whether they're necessary or not.


All I'm trying to do right now is confirm whether a 125amp fuse like I asked about would be appropriate for the current 117amp alternator.

Can anyone answer that question?

Thanks!
 
Cables are already order and on the way, and the stock 117 amp is only staying put until I put in a bigger one.

So the 1/0 cables are part of the upgrade path for me, regardless of whether they're necessary or not.


All I'm trying to do right now is confirm whether a 125amp fuse like I asked about would be appropriate for the current 117amp alternator.

Can anyone answer that question?

Thanks!



You need at least a 150amp fuse. The Mega fuses are $5 at OReily's, don't know why you'd pay double?
 
You need at least a 150amp fuse. The Mega fuses are $5 at OReily's, don't know why you'd pay double?

Thank you.

I only posted the Amazon link as a reference. If the local parts places have them in stock for less, I will likely buy local especially if I can knock 20% - 30% off with a coupon (like Advance Auto tends to do often).
 
I'm thinking of getting the 16 ton yellow hydraulic crimpers all over Amazon. Anybody ever use them? They seem to be getting good reviews.

The only downside is that the 16 ton version only comes with dies that go down to size 5 awg.

I'm thinking I could easily make some smaller dies myself. I have some 3/8 steel scrap. That way, I'd have the more powerful crimpers with dies that could go from 10 awg all the way up to large hydraulic hoses.

The only thing is ... I would make the die with a round opening, instead of hexagonal, because it's easier to drill a round hole than a hexagonal hole :)

Any thoughts on a round crimp vs. a hexagonal crimp?

Thanks!
 
I bought those Amazon 16 ton crimpers and they seemed like they'd work just fine but the dies were way too large for my needs. I could not actually crimp the 4 gauge lugs I had bought, even with the smallest dies, and I just needed to do a quick lug replacement on a factory cable, so they would not work at all for that purpose. I got the Harbor Freight ones instead, which have dies that go much much smaller. I don't see why you couldn't get good results with the 16 ton crimpers if you could make some half decent dies to fit them. They are a bit big and heavy to really want to use on smaller crimps where you don't need all the extra leverage, though.

Also, I got a nice heavy duty / high amp fuse holder at Napa, I can't recall if it uses a Mega fuse or ANL fuse, but it's a universal piece probably intended more for heavy truck or industrial applications. I just found it by looking through their print electrical parts catalog that they keep behind the counter. I don't have a part number on it but it was less than $15 a couple years ago when I picked one up for my XJ. I installed the same fuse holder along with an upgraded alternator in my Mustang several years ago and it's been working out well.
 
Well thanks for that info ... I went ahead and ordered the 16 ton crimpers ... they should arrive in about a week. I'm just thinking that having the large dies will allow me to make hydraulic hoses and whatnot also. I'll try to make some smaller dies for it and see how it works. If I can do that, I'll have something that will cover a large range of crimping sizes.

Best of luck to all.
 
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