frame stiffeners contribute to rust?

[ehall]

Weld through primer and weld the full perimeter and all holes in the stiffener. If everything is welded correctly then there is no opening to introduce water OR oxygen.

you'll still get condensation, and if the moisture pools up at the bottom it will eventually go through the primer and start rusting

 

[ECKSJAY]

perhaps you should argue with what he actually said instead of what you wish he'd said

Rust forms where water sits, and does not form when it runs off.

So explain. Water runs off my brakes, but rust still forms. It does not sit, yet rust still forms. What have I missed? :dunno:

 

[DirtyMJ]

Weld through primer and weld the full perimeter and all holes in the stiffener. If everything is welded correctly then there is no opening to introduce water OR oxygen. Both of which are necessary for corrosion to start. I work on 53' trailers at work and the bumpers on some are double wall c-channel with stich welds every 6 inches. Plenty of space to "drain" water, but I'm constantly replacing these things because they look like swiss cheese. Leaving space to "drain" the stiffner will make it rust out faster. Then again, these are 20 year old trailers.

I bet most of the people on here would be reluctant to weld the entirety of the perimeter. They've been told it's a bad idea. I'm not sure who started that. Of course, it's probably up there with how nobody actually makes there stiffeners 'correctly' in regards to any of the standard practices of chassis design or repair.

I would weld it all, then paint it... No freaking weld through primer, that stuff is garbage thanks to granola eating hippies not allowing anything good to come in a can anymore.

 

[JeepFreak21]

???

http://naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244150086&postcount=9

:anon:

Yeah, I know... that was for Jon
Billy

 

[ECKSJAY]

Yeah, I know... that was for Jon
Billy

:banghead:

 

[Ba-Riedo]

I work at Sherwin Williams and we carrie some sort of Zinc coating that you can spray on metal buildings.. it weights 95lbs for 3.5 gallons and its a 2 part epoxy and a kit is like 70$ a gallon if I can remember right.

FWIW I worked at an industrial coatings shop over the summer and used a lot of this stuff. We got a job for a ship terminal in Alaska (Coast Guard something or other I believe) and were given pilings and pieces of the pier to coat. That zinc paint is the worst crap ever, I mixed hundreds of 5 gallon buckets for few weeks. The painters hated the stuff too, it jams the airless sprayers and dries almost instantly. The only good thing about that stuff is its one of the strongest coatings we did, flame spraying zinc on was the only stronger stuff there was. Oh and it also had a weird citrus smell...:laugh:

-Alex

 

[Blaine B.]

I bet most of the people on here would be reluctant to weld the entirety of the perimeter. They've been told it's a bad idea. I'm not sure who started that. Of course, it's probably up there with how nobody actually makes there stiffeners 'correctly' in regards to any of the standard practices of chassis design or repair.

I would weld it all, then paint it... No freaking weld through primer, that stuff is garbage thanks to granola eating hippies not allowing anything good to come in a can anymore.

lol!

 

[stumpbum21]

"I bet most of the people on here would be reluctant to weld the entirety of the perimeter. They've been told it's a bad idea. I'm not sure who started that."

I think it might have something to do with creating a stress riser in the "frame" right around the weld. Mostly it is a function of the tin foil that Jeep saw fit to create the "frame" from. It's the spot where the reinforcement ends that is vulnerable. Then cracks happen. It's like the drivetrain: you never lose the weak link, you just move it around.:wantyou:

 

[Smittty9785]

yea dont weld the whole thing. bad idea. you will be hating life after you wheel possibly for the first time. shit will crack and bend. you do not want to do that. other than that, good luck wheeling..

 

[ehall]

So explain. Water runs off my brakes, but rust still forms. It does not sit, yet rust still forms. What have I missed? :dunno:

Condensation sits when you park for several months

Seems like a pretty simple concept... not sure of the confusion?

 

[Smittty9785]

yea, its not going to be there in a night or so, but it will definately build up overtime. i chopped my top and getting rust on my unfinished cage. need to finish the cage and get the the rear covered up. once im done with that, i might be able to drive it in Oregon without freezing my balls off. my jeep which i use for offroad use only is out of compensation. i drive my chevy blazer during daily use and jeep offroad. Ill have the jeep here finished soon, seeing im getting a new job that will pay more that triple thatn what i was getting.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

Don't put drain holes in the stiffener! Like someone else mentioned, it simply gives another place for air/moisture to enter the unirail and start rust. Unless you can coat the inside of the unirail AFTER you weld the stiffener in place, do not add a drain hole.

Just take the time and properly seam seal (like OEM) all the joints and then spray with a quality undercoating (loctite, 3M, duplicolor). I also highly reccomend using a quality weldable primer on both the unirail and the stiffener.

On another note. The Ruffstuff stiffeners seem to be the best option out there (rosettes, 3/16 thick, and extend the farthest). I just received mine yesturday

 

[DirtyMJ]

yea dont weld the whole thing. bad idea. you will be hating life after you wheel possibly for the first time. shit will crack and bend. you do not want to do that. other than that, good luck wheeling..

Did I not make my comment in a manner that was aloof enough to make a point?


It's recycled tech... But that doesn't make it right.

 

[ECKSJAY]

Condensation sits when you park for several months

Seems like a pretty simple concept... not sure of the confusion?

I'm not confused...I figured you were since you said two completely different things.