frame stiffeners contribute to rust?

[crazyjim]

what frame?

This one

 

[markw]

This one

Ok, what's rust again? I vaguely remember brown splotches on cars when I lived where that white stuff fell from the sky.... Weld through primer, then undercoat it when you're done. If you're really worried about rust the move to the desert, does wonders for stopping rust.

 

[crazyjim]

Ok, what's rust again? I vaguely remember brown splotches on cars when I lived where that white stuff fell from the sky.... Weld through primer, then undercoat it when you're done. If you're really worried about rust the move to the desert, does wonders for stopping rust.

True dat! I dunno what this rust thing they refer to is!

 

[JeepFreak21]

Always use weld thru primer before you weld on your stiffeners, you also do not need to grind the entire rail down to clean metal, clean the area's you will be welding too, two coat's of weld thru primer on both your frame and the stiffeners. Ten as said, undercoat the crap out of it when you are done.

That's exactly what I did and my welds looked like crap. I'm sure they got lousy penetration... they were popping and spattering all over the place. Do you know of something that works better than this?


Billy

 

[wingnut3k]

considering how many holes in the frame and all why not just occasionally pour a quart of used engine oil into each frame tube. That maybe coupled with a good bead of silicone along the top and the front should slow down any rust. Just don't park in your nice clean driveway for a day or so.

probably not a good idea if you ever have to weld to the frame again...fires arent fun

 

[CharlieMopps]

I work at Sherwin Williams and we carrie some sort of Zinc coating that you can spray on metal buildings.. it weights 95lbs for 3.5 gallons and its a 2 part epoxy and a kit is like 70$ a gallon if I can remember right.

dude... $5 a can:

 

[FordGuy]

That's exactly what I did and my welds looked like crap. I'm sure they got lousy penetration... they were popping and spattering all over the place. Do you know of something that works better than this?


Billy

You need to use a Weldable Primer, get it at a bodyshop supply store. You can't even tell its there when you weld.

 

[JeepFreak21]

You need to use a Weldable Primer, get it at a bodyshop supply store. You can't even tell its there when you weld.

FWIW, the can does say "For weld-through applications." :dunno:
Billy

 

[CharlieMopps]

I once welded up an entire seat frame, was wondering why my welds looked so bad, then looked over and saw my gas needle at 0. Duh.

 

[JeepFreak21]

I once welded up an entire seat frame, was wondering why my welds looked so bad, then looked over and saw my gas needle at 0. Duh.

Been there too
Billy

 

[FordGuy]

FWIW, the can does say "For weld-through applications." :dunno:
Billy

Buy it at a bodyshop supply, I use it all the time and it does not cause welding issues. Maybe krylon sucks?

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

dude... $5 a can:

that probably adds up to more than the gallon strait up. How many oz are in that can? And I mean of the actual zinc compound, the weight on the can includes propellant and inert items.

 

[CharlieMopps]

that probably adds up to more than the gallon strait up. How many oz are in that can? And I mean of the actual zinc compound, the weight on the can includes propellant and inert items.

let me go out to the garage and spray it all in a mason jar and weigh the results, then subtract for the mason jar and... oh wait, I'm not going to do that because that would suck.

 

[TheManch]

i second the notion of true weld through primer, i paide about $20 a can for the 3m stuff but it worked awesome!


Mike

 

[ECKSJAY]

Atmospheric corrosion getting started on the ground iron surface. This picks up mainly because you don't heat up the rotors if you let them sit for a while (the heat from use burns off the moisture - problem solved.)

Fortunately, the milder the alloy (going from high-strength tool steels down to mild cast irons,) the more resistant to rust they seem to be. That's still not as good as a decent corrosion resistant alloy (10-17% chromium content,) but it's good if the part isn't structural.

Thanks Jon, I actually knew why. I was asking the guy who said rust won't form if there's no standing water. :dunce:

 

[JeepFreak21]

Thanks Jon, I actually knew why. I was asking the guy who said rust won't form if there's no standing water. :dunce:

Billy

 

[ECKSJAY]

Billy

???

http://naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244150086&postcount=9

:anon:

 

[stumpbum21]

Weld through primer and weld the full perimeter and all holes in the stiffener. If everything is welded correctly then there is no opening to introduce water OR oxygen. Both of which are necessary for corrosion to start. I work on 53' trailers at work and the bumpers on some are double wall c-channel with stich welds every 6 inches. Plenty of space to "drain" water, but I'm constantly replacing these things because they look like swiss cheese. Leaving space to "drain" the stiffner will make it rust out faster. Then again, these are 20 year old trailers.

 

[Blaine B.]

I second moving to the desert!?

 

[ehall]

Thanks Jon, I actually knew why. I was asking the guy who said rust won't form if there's no standing water. :dunce:

perhaps you should argue with what he actually said instead of what you wish he'd said