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FOX Air shocks

the reason i asked about the 4-link, is the OP didnt mention it at all, and it seemed like he wanted to run the air shocks with the stock leafs, which isnt the best way to go.

nothing against 4-links, i cant wait for mine. but it can be a big project.

Yeah I wasn't sure if that was even possible or not. I can tell now that would not be a good idea. The only jeep I have seen the fox air shocks mounted on was the Gen-right wrangler in 4wd mag.

I wouldn't totally rule a 4link out yet. If I do one I plan on making my own.
 
heres an xj with fox air shocks.

sandybeachrescue002.jpg


dont do the 4 link until you upgrade to tons. and if you already have an 8.25 i say stick with that for now and the leafs and maybe some rs9000s or those blisteins.

definitely dont do the air shock route unless your ready for major cutting and its too much money to waste on those little axles
 
heres an xj with fox air shocks:

Dont do the 4 link until you upgrade to tons. and if you already have an 8.25 i say stick with that for now and the leafs and maybe some rs9000s or those blisteins.

definitely dont do the air shock route unless your ready for major cutting and its too much money to waste on those little axles

Do you think It would matter to do a 4link/3link/air-shocks if I plan on building my own??? Really... the only thing on my little axles would be the link mounts...?

That rig looks like a blast. What kind of ride should I expect on the road? (with air shocks)
 
12" or I have to cut. Thanks for the info.
Measure. Don't just take someone's word. I'm running 10" shortbody Bilsteins in the rear on 5 or so inches of lift because that's what matched my measurements.
 
Did you use a jack or drive it up on something??? I read above where you or someone said to do it "with out shocks on".
You need to measure your current overall shock length (eye to eye) at ride height then decide what shock length will give you a good balance between compression and extension. Most shock manufacturers post these measurements or can give them to you them if you ask. I run RE monotubes in mine and am very happy with them. They are nitrogen charged and seem to be pretty good quality. Have had them in for a few years and they still feel the same as they did when they were new.
 
You need to measure your current overall shock length (eye to eye) at ride height then decide what shock length will give you a good balance between compression and extension. Most shock manufacturers post these measurements or can give them to you them if you ask. I run RE monotubes in mine and am very happy with them. They are nitrogen charged and seem to be pretty good quality. Have had them in for a few years and they still feel the same as they did when they were new.

Ok, Sounds like a plan. I'll start by doing that. Thank you for the advice.
 
Did you use a jack or drive it up on something??? I read above where you or someone said to do it "with out shocks on".
I drove mine up a large dirt mound to flex the back end out. The most important one is compression. You don't want to buy a shock that's too long and then have to bumpstop the hell out of it, losing all uptravel. If the shock is has more extension than you have downtravel, that's not a problem.

Many who do it will measure in the driveway with a jack. Unbolt the shocks, and remove all but the main leaf from your leaf packs. Stick a little wooden block or something in there to simulate the thickness of the leafs, then flex it as far you can. You want to be sure to put the Jeep on jackstands though. You strip the leaf packs down because you'll never be able to exert enough force to fully compress the leafs.
 
Many who do it will measure in the driveway with a jack. Unbolt the shocks, and remove all but the main leaf from your leaf packs. Stick a little wooden block or something in there to simulate the thickness of the leafs, then flex it as far you can. You want to be sure to put the Jeep on jackstands though. You strip the leaf packs down because you'll never be able to exert enough force to fully compress the leafs.

That sure seems like a huge waste of time. I used a ramp with the shocks off, and simply measured. To be sure everything worked I bought cheap monroes to my measurements (extened and compressed) ran them then bought bilsteins all around.
 
My issue with those axles is your not going to need air shocks. or a linked rear because the benefits of those will never come into play. youll break an axle shaft before you ever experience the reason why you needed a linked rear or air shocks. so dont waste the time or money to go through that. it just doesnt make sense to me.

and just the link mounts? it takes a lot of planning and calculations to get a 4 link worked out. In the end i dont think its worth it unless your going to bigger axles
 
That sure seems like a huge waste of time. I used a ramp with the shocks off, and simply measured. To be sure everything worked I bought cheap monroes to my measurements (extened and compressed) ran them then bought bilsteins all around.

x2, i put a ramp diagonally up a curb, and drive up it so only one wheel is on the sideway (and 1 foot in the air, or recently, 2 ramps up a driveway)

as far as bcmax's monroe test fit... the problem with that, is i doubt you can be accurate enough... when i did my last shock purchase, the deceiding factor was the 2 inch differance between fox 2.0's, and bilstein 7100's. no way you can find monroe's that accurately....

UNFORTUNATELY, i do have to agree with darky, dont take someone's word for it! go measure!
 
as far as bcmax's monroe test fit... the problem with that, is i doubt you can be accurate enough... when i did my last shock purchase, the deceiding factor was the 2 inch differance between fox 2.0's, and bilstein 7100's. no way you can find monroe's that accurately....

getting off topic but-

I spent a good while finding proper shocks and going through measurement charts, and had to "sacrfice a little here and have a little extra there". Having eye to eye shocks all around helped. I ended up with Bilstein shocks very close to my compressed and extended measurements,and am also bumpstopped and limit strapped and haven't bottomed out or over extended a shock yet. I'm thinking you get into a very limited selection on higher end shocks and things don't just "cross-over"
 
e.

and just the link mounts? it takes a lot of planning and calculations to get a 4 link worked out. In the end i dont think its worth it unless your going to bigger axles

I'm sure its a huge undertaking.

I'm not going to 4link it our buy axles until I break what I've got. Then I know I'm ready to upgrade. I'll consider a 4link when I buy the bigger axles.

I think I'll try to make some long arms for the front (using the stock front axle mounts). Buy some nice bilstien 5150's for the back by making a jks style cross mount like I have posted and call it good for a while.
 
Getting off topic but...I would (did) do rear links on a rig with little axles (D30 and D44) but what I wouldn't do is rear links on a full body rig. Waste of time and effort in my opinion.

Slightly back on topic...Opie runs Fox 2.5" airshocks on he front of his rig and loves them. Rick (the hammered blue rig above) swapped his front air shocks for ORI struts, but I believe still has regular air shocks in the back.
 
Buy some nice bilstien 5150's for the back by making a jks style cross mount like I have posted and call it good for a while.

Bilsteins are nice, but since (I think) you said this a trail only truck, OME's might be more enjoyable, they're softer and pretty smooth.
 
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