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Differential Covers and Rock Sliders

I was going to go the ARB route till I discovered that ARB doesn't make a cover for the C8.25, or at least I could never find one which I thought was odd cause they obviously make a locker for it. I was going to do the weld in thing but I just hate to cut into the body that much. Plus you can never go back, but they are much better. Thanks for the input guys, keep it coming.

Just in my experience, if you actually wheel your rig...there isn't any going back anyways. I thought the same thing when I built my first rig till the upgrades slowly required more cutting and welding and such...plus trail damage...and I rarely kept stock stuff, or I trashed the stock stuff and had to upgrade.

In the end, there really never is any going back. That's why on my current rig I said screw it and cut and welded a bunch of stuff like the track bar, quarter panels, rocker replacements...I realized that my rig will never be stock again.

IIRC.. Crane and Riddler were Identical?

Riddler is a knock off Crane. :shhh:

~Scott
 
im runnin sliders by a guy on the board that makes em (stang5lgt), hes got one hell of a price on em and they are taking a beating from hell with no signs of giving in...i juts welded em @ frame and pinch-seam
d9eb4b3c.jpg
 
If

Riddler = Crane

and

Jim Carrey = Riddler

doe that mean that

Jim Carrey = Crane?

Knock off doesn't mean they're equal...just means they are similar.

~Scott
 
Mind is made up, Riddlers front and rear. That said anyone know of a vendor on here that sells them, I would like to give them my support. Now onto the sliders. I am going to head down to the local place to get steel and price it out. No welding to the uni-body for me as of now, I plan to build something I have yet to see on anyone's XJ using some Rectangle box steel and DOM tube.
 
if youre gonna bolt to frame, make sure you have the mounting plate on side of frame rail as well as the bottom of the frame rail
 
if youre gonna bolt to frame, make sure you have the mounting plate on side of frame rail as well as the bottom of the frame rail

With the setup I'm doing It will be plenty strong without going under the uni-body rail. I can tap into my uni-body strengtheners by drilling and tapping, then using large plate with 4 holes a piece that bolt into the side I will have no issues. I may post up a build thread when I tackle that project, amidst my gearing and locker install and winch bumper issues I have my hands full.

To muddy beast, yeah I wheel it and yeah you can go back if you do it right it just might take a little more engineering and time. What I meant by my first statement is about cutting into the body and welding new stuff on, but that's not what this threads about....so lets leave it at a simple disagreement. :greensmok
 
With the setup I'm doing It will be plenty strong without going under the uni-body rail. I can tap into my uni-body strengtheners by drilling and tapping, then using large plate with 4 holes a piece that bolt into the side I will have no issues. I may post up a build thread when I tackle that project, amidst my gearing and locker install and winch bumper issues I have my hands full.

To muddy beast, yeah I wheel it and yeah you can go back if you do it right it just might take a little more engineering and time. What I meant by my first statement is about cutting into the body and welding new stuff on, but that's not what this threads about....so lets leave it at a simple disagreement. :greensmok

I meant no disrespect by that statement. But the reality of it is if you wheel...and you wheel hard, irreversible things will happen which will render it pointless to try and convert everything back to stock. But that's why the Jeep is in your name, not mine, just trying to give advice based on my experience building two Cherokee's in the last 3 years.

I'm curious what you have in mind for sliders though, lets see some drawings!

~Scott
 
I meant no disrespect by that statement. But the reality of it is if you wheel...and you wheel hard, irreversible things will happen which will render it pointless to try and convert everything back to stock. But that's why the Jeep is in your name, not mine, just trying to give advice based on my experience building two Cherokee's in the last 3 years.

I'm curious what you have in mind for sliders though, lets see some drawings!

~Scott

Scott, the reason your rigs are irreversible is because you keep flopping them.
 
Scott, the reason your rigs are irreversible is because you keep flopping them.

My point exactly, wheel hard, pay hard.

And lets face it, your rig isn't winning any beauty contest either.

~Scott
 
My point exactly, wheel hard, pay hard.

And lets face it, your rig isn't winning any beauty contest either.

~Scott

No it's not, but the doors close. :wave1:... and open.
 
haha, well I am trying to keep it as nice as I can till I can officially turn it into a wheeling rig, but since I must drive it day in and day out its hard to pound the heck out of it. I would so love to say who cares if I flop it :roll: maybe some day. I meant no harm as well I just had to disagree. I have no drawings yet but I plan on doing a rectangular tube, cutting the outer side off and welding in the DOM tube to make it basically round on the edge and flat on the top, then I am going to have 2, 3, or 4 tubes that go to the uni-body, I am leaning towards 3. The rectangular tube would be touching the "floorboard" and the pinch seam would be drilled and then a bolt would go through to the rectangular tube that was tapped. Kinda a mess explaining it wasn't it...lol Pictures are needed now.

Oh and I forgot that I would weld up a L style bracket to run the entire lenght of the pinch seam on the back side giving it more upper force protection and creating a Pinch on the pinch seam.
 
My vote is on Crane. I have hit the front and had to reseal it, but never damaged the cover
 
Also do any of you guys know who sells Riddlers for a decent price? Maybe a vendor on here?
 
John at Auburn Car Repair can probably get them. He does a very good job at supporting the chapter.
 
Look into getting some lube lockers at the same time as your HD diff covers. Had mine apart 5+ times and its still sealing great!
 
No it's not, but the doors close. :wave1:... and open.

So do mine. Just not from the outside...on the passenger side. But once I get a new door and straighten the pillar out all will be good.


haha, well I am trying to keep it as nice as I can till I can officially turn it into a wheeling rig, but since I must drive it day in and day out its hard to pound the heck out of it.

Mines my only car, other than the motorcycle it's my DD too. But I understand, I said the same thing when I built my first Jeep. I just do what I can to avoid damage and if it happens I suck it up and pay to play. You'll learn in a year or two. :p

Look into getting some lube lockers at the same time as your HD diff covers. Had mine apart 5+ times and its still sealing great!

X2. I had to keep resealing the covers from hitting my riddlers but after installing lubelocker, no more leaks and plenty of hard hits.

~Scott
 
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