Differential Covers and Rock Sliders

[WaXJ_Skier]

So do mine. Just not from the outside...on the passenger side. But once I get a new door and straighten the pillar out all will be good.

Me thinks you should invest in a cage

 

[FiveNdime]

Thanks for the Lube Locker tip, Ive been eying those too. Im still wondering if there's a vendor on here but I guess not. Anyone know where to get the riddlers cheap or at a discount?

 

[WaXJ_Skier]

Thanks for the Lube Locker tip, Ive been eying those too. Im still wondering if there's a vendor on here but I guess not. Anyone know where to get the riddlers cheap or at a discount?

Northridge has them for $90 a pop. they do free shipping for orders over 100 and standard ground is overnight for western Washington and northern Oregon.

 

[2xtreme]

haha, well I am trying to keep it as nice as I can till I can officially turn it into a wheeling rig, but since I must drive it day in and day out its hard to pound the heck out of it. I would so love to say who cares if I flop it :roll: maybe some day. I meant no harm as well I just had to disagree. I have no drawings yet but I plan on doing a rectangular tube, cutting the outer side off and welding in the DOM tube to make it basically round on the edge and flat on the top, then I am going to have 2, 3, or 4 tubes that go to the uni-body, I am leaning towards 3. The rectangular tube would be touching the "floorboard" and the pinch seam would be drilled and then a bolt would go through to the rectangular tube that was tapped. Kinda a mess explaining it wasn't it...lol Pictures are needed now.

Oh and I forgot that I would weld up a L style bracket to run the entire lenght of the pinch seam on the back side giving it more upper force protection and creating a Pinch on the pinch seam.

WOW!!!!

That would be a LOT of work for sliders. That is a LOT cutting of DOM at an angle, then a lot of fit up to get it to fit right, then a ton of welding, then a bunch of filler/grinding to make it all look clean. It would be different, but WAY too much time in my book.

My opinion only. Cut out rockers can be done MUCH cleaner, much cheaper, and much easier in much less time if they are done with the same diligence as you have presented in your idea above.

Keep in mind also that if you plan on useing your sliders as a step to get into the vehicle the radius edge will likely provide more shin bruises when you slip off

Just my thoughts.
Michael

 

[WaXJ_Skier]

Keep in mind also that if you plan on useing your sliders as a step to get into the vehicle the radius edge will likely provide more shin bruises when you slip off

Just my thoughts.
Michael

Michael haven't you ever heard of grip tape? :jester: Where there is a problem 3M has the answer.

 

[NickThePyro]

Where there is a problem; Duct tape, BFH, and WD-40 compile the answer.

Fixed it for ya :viking:

 

[FiveNdime]

Northridge has them for $90 a pop. they do free shipping for orders over 100 and standard ground is overnight for western Washington and northern Oregon.

Thanks! I will have to order some!

As for the sliders the way I explained it sounded like a lot of work but in reality Ive done allot of fab work before and figured it would take me a day to fab each side to finished product. Right now I have not much time, and today I cost out the material and it was about 220 bucks....so now I have to figure out if my time to have "different" sliders is worth it and right now its not, so I am now going to look for some good ones. JCR and AJ's is top on my list right now.

 

[FiveNdime]

I emailed Northridge 4x4 because they dont have the C8.25 Riddler cover on there site but they said they could get one to ship for 125 bucks and they will ship it to your door for that price.

 

[knucklehead 61]

i run ruffstuff front & rear on my heep. pure beef! instant shipping & :: discount! no way to fail with ruffstuff. atriot:

 

[redrider2911]

My rig was strait about 4 months ago and I was going to keep it that way. Then one wonderful day... :gee: lol
If you really wanted to go the route with the DOM welded in for the radius. Buy yourself some 10" 3/16 flat bar (if they freakin make it that big) and take it to a shop with a pressbreak and bend it into your "U" shape. Less cutting, still alot of welding to do and still not cost effective. But still cleaner then trying to cut that whole side off.

 

[Matt_West]

I opted for cutting the rockers and using the minimum size box tube to extend past the sill. A small square piece of tube was used in the channel above the rocker replacement to reinforce and spread an upward load. The square tube was rosette welded to the body while the rectangular rocker replacements were seam welded.

I then had some DOM bent up with DOM stand offs. What I liked about this arrangement was the pass through sections between the stand offs and tube rail were sized for a recovery strap and will keep it captive so it would not slip the length of the rail when threaded through.

Yes it was a lot of work, but I have not slipped and hit my shins yet.