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Crawling for dummies

Wj? Front or rear?
If your really want a large tire size, the Dana 60 front, 14 bolt rear is a great, common swap. Most stock jeep axles are safe on a 33 inch tire. Some can be built to handle up to a 37. Depending on the wheeling you do, stock axles may or may not work for you.
 
Wj? Front or rear?
If your really want a large tire size, the Dana 60 front, 14 bolt rear is a great, common swap. Most stock jeep axles are safe on a 33 inch tire. Some can be built to handle up to a 37. Depending on the wheeling you do, stock axles may or may not work for you.


No doubt I'm going with 35s or 37s, and I was going to do the front first, and I'll just be going to the local trails on the weekends for fun.
 
They don't have a front 44 as far as I know. An easy swap would be a jk or lj front 44, pair that with an xj 44 or 8.8 rear and you should be pretty good on 37's.
 
They don't have a front 44 as far as I know. An easy swap would be a jk or lj front 44, pair that with an xj 44 or 8.8 rear and you should be pretty good on 37's.


Thanks, worry about re gearing or what? I want to lock the rear, and front eventually, any ideas on that?
 
Regear and lock at the same time. As for the ratio, that's something you gotta decide. Go a little lower then you think.
 
Search man. There are lots of options. Probably 30 or more different lockers for those axles.
 
Seriously. Go to the FAQ section of this forum and read. Every one will get you closer to answering you questions. A decision like this is not to be taken likely. These are not Toyotas or wranglers. They do not have a frame. They are a different animal when it comes you what the vehicle itself will stand. Watched a video last night the where the jeep literally ripped itself in half. The owner was doing what the mj was not prepaired to do.

Frame stiffeners. Rocker replacement. Trans crossmembers. Rear and belly skids. Bumpers. Steering box area bracing and plating.
All these this need to be addressed before you just go throwing tons and 37s under an xj. You'll be sorry down the road if you don't.

You can very easily fit 37s under a 6.5" lift. But done improperly is just dangerous, careless, and stupid. Do it right and address everything else first. That is why people are telling you to start small.

If you have addressed all that stuff already then give a few more details about the jeep and what you have done or plan to do. Post some pics and ask for opinions. You will get good solid advice on this forum.
 
Indeed, research and be open to criticism here. This is by far the most informative and helpful forum for Cherokees. Without help I've recieved here, I'd be jeep less more than once.
 
my .02cents any axle you could possibly think of could be swapped under with the right brackets or redneck ingenuity theres a guy on pirate with mogs and 4-wheel steer but i tell you what in the nicest way possible he didnt hop on naxja and start saying im on a tight budget but how can i fit huge tires and axles under my xj with this off the shelf lift kit...

please do us all a favor and start small my first xj was a rotbox but i did a 3" lift 31"s learned the ins and out and problem areas fought the death wobble got rid of that jeep did lots of research bought another xj ended up with 4.5" long arm on 35's with a tcase swap if you keep going like this no one will be this helpful i know some people may seem jerkish but they are genuinely trying to help you if you think we are bad hop onto pirate and copy paste your original post see where that gets you
 
Wow......just wow
 
Glad I could help
 
I say go for it. Do what you want, beat the crap out of it you will learn a lot along the way. You could ask what gearing people are using with 38” and what kind of lockers they are using. I would go with selectable lockers,they just easier to make tight turns. But I don’t know if that will fit on your budget.
 
So much fail on both sides in this thread. Op is obviously in over his head, but why waste money on starting small? The front swap is only moderately difficult. The rear is simple, it's leaf spring. My 80's dodge rear 60 was litery bolt in, perches in the right place, 1310 yoke, no more work than installing a lift. Buy a set of xj brackets and weld them on(in the right place) to a drivers drop front axle and you can bolt it to any xj kit. Yes you'll want frame stiffeners, plating and bracing the steering box area, I'd say ram assist for both turning and taking stress of the unibody. No it's not a weekend build, no it's not cheap, yes it will require some fab skills, but it's not rocket science, you don't need to wheel on 31's to wheel on 38's later. If you know you want big tires, it's just a waste of time and money building small first. Bolting on a 3" lift won't teach you anything about an axle swap. Yes the op could have found all the info he needed through research, could have came off as more informed with a plan and less vague and general questions. He could have found out easily that wj's don't have a 44 front and the d44a in the rear is weaker and more expensive to build than a standard 44. He'd have found that 5.38's aren't available for a dana 30, and are ill advised for a 44 due to how small the pinion head is. If you want 37's or larger go dana 60 front and 70 or 14 bolt or 10.5 ford rear. The chevy front 60 isn't bad if you were thinking doubler, as you can run a dana 300 and not have to flip it. Yes some of this is more advanced and far from cheap, but why build what you know you don't want. Building it how you want it to end up will always be cheaper than building in stages.
 
Hey guys....I didn't want to start a new thread and this one seems close to what I want to do so help me.

Very limited budget....like I've got $47. Can I put rockwalls, 42's, and a jato pack on my xj. It also has the idiot gauge cluster...how do i fix that?
 
I found these axles, they was just laying on the ground all alone, all bolted up under this car, but they was just laying there for free so I got em.
 
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