- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
si, senor.
Advance Auto has a small set (5 IIRC) E-Torx sockets that includes the one for the bell housing
-
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Converting stock 2wd to stock 4wd
- Thread starter tykby3
- Start date
si, senor.
Advance Auto has a small set (5 IIRC) E-Torx sockets that includes the one for the bell housing
faraiwe
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NE Florida
Hmmm... considering the engine seems fairly intact, and MAY still turn, and is not seized (hope, hope, hope), that will take a little muscle. Will air-strike that bridge when I come to it.
::heading over to AutoZone::
¡Andale, andale, andale!
::heading over to AutoZone::
¡Andale, andale, andale!
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Yeah. Its honestly not too bad, when I tightened the bolts on mine I had to grab the flexplate to keep it from turning. Might even be able to just grab the serpentine belt and pull on it, don't run your fingers into a pulley though. Pull the plugs if it is too hard to turn over.
faraiwe
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NE Florida
Update!
Parts secured. :laugh3:
Long story short, baaaad weather had driven us out, and a few days late we returned (friend helping couldn't take a day off), and one of the people who had expressed an interest in the engine had removed it. Guy was kind enough to remember we had mentioned we'd be back for the transmission, and left it sitting where we had it, minus the jacks.
Basically, we may be missing a few screws, I may not have the wiring for the "part-time 4x4 ON" light (there are two plugs in the transfer case missing a connector. Could not find them), and the inspection plate had one spot slightly torn. I figure can use mine, anyways, and the part, even new can't be that ridiculously expensive. I see what kastein was talking about with the 4 bolts. Too easy!
Also managed to wrench out the front axle assembly. It did not come out of free will, and we KNOW we've been in a fight, having kissed some of the linkage, in the process. :gee: Anyways, it DID come out. It works beautifully, even to the slightest push.
All we're missing is the rear drive shaft. The donor's was banged, with a pronounced dent. Front shaft and axle assembly seemed to have some surface rust. However, a generous spray of WD-40 has improved the appearance a LOT. There is some rust on spots here and there, but they don't seem to be more than superficial, and nothing in critical areas (joints, soldering, gears..).
Currently away, will be back in 10 or so days, and then I can drain the transmission and transfer, take a hard brush to the grease and gunk outside of the parts, get them clean and purdy, grab whatever incidentals (fluids, miscellanea) needed, and get ready to swap stuff. :clap:
Parts secured. :laugh3:
Long story short, baaaad weather had driven us out, and a few days late we returned (friend helping couldn't take a day off), and one of the people who had expressed an interest in the engine had removed it. Guy was kind enough to remember we had mentioned we'd be back for the transmission, and left it sitting where we had it, minus the jacks.
Basically, we may be missing a few screws, I may not have the wiring for the "part-time 4x4 ON" light (there are two plugs in the transfer case missing a connector. Could not find them), and the inspection plate had one spot slightly torn. I figure can use mine, anyways, and the part, even new can't be that ridiculously expensive. I see what kastein was talking about with the 4 bolts. Too easy!
Also managed to wrench out the front axle assembly. It did not come out of free will, and we KNOW we've been in a fight, having kissed some of the linkage, in the process. :gee: Anyways, it DID come out. It works beautifully, even to the slightest push.
All we're missing is the rear drive shaft. The donor's was banged, with a pronounced dent. Front shaft and axle assembly seemed to have some surface rust. However, a generous spray of WD-40 has improved the appearance a LOT. There is some rust on spots here and there, but they don't seem to be more than superficial, and nothing in critical areas (joints, soldering, gears..).
Currently away, will be back in 10 or so days, and then I can drain the transmission and transfer, take a hard brush to the grease and gunk outside of the parts, get them clean and purdy, grab whatever incidentals (fluids, miscellanea) needed, and get ready to swap stuff. :clap:
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- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I went to my local yard for a spare rear driveshaft Saturday and found plenty of them... all bent :bs:
The yards frequently use forklifts to move the hulks around, and driveshafts are vulnerable.
How close are you to NJ? A friend of mine answered my WTB ad but he's in New Jersey and it's really not worth the time or shipping for either of us. If you are within sane driving distance and want to buy it off him, it's all yours.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1058136 he's in Malaga, NJ.
The yards frequently use forklifts to move the hulks around, and driveshafts are vulnerable.
How close are you to NJ? A friend of mine answered my WTB ad but he's in New Jersey and it's really not worth the time or shipping for either of us. If you are within sane driving distance and want to buy it off him, it's all yours.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1058136 he's in Malaga, NJ.
faraiwe
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NE Florida
I have searched around the local junkyards, found a few older models (I'm assuming spline count would be wrong, or otherwise incompatible because of coupling?), but no luck in securing an intact shaft. This is indeed 110% unfiltered, distilled BS. :bs:
I'm just north of Baltimore, by Aberdeen. Currently away from home until the 25th-ish. It's not unfeasible, but about a good hour and a half away. There has GOT to be a undamaged rear shaft for a 96-later around here. :nosmile:
Anyways, I got about a month or so, til the next opportunity to employ a helping hand. Good news is that, while swearing at the front axle, we found this gentleman whose experience with the intricacies of a Jeep is waaaaay above ours (then again, not hard), and he also mentioned he might lend a hand in identifying stuff along the way when the actual swap takes place. Welcoming any help, here, so yeay! party1:
I'm just north of Baltimore, by Aberdeen. Currently away from home until the 25th-ish. It's not unfeasible, but about a good hour and a half away. There has GOT to be a undamaged rear shaft for a 96-later around here. :nosmile:
Anyways, I got about a month or so, til the next opportunity to employ a helping hand. Good news is that, while swearing at the front axle, we found this gentleman whose experience with the intricacies of a Jeep is waaaaay above ours (then again, not hard), and he also mentioned he might lend a hand in identifying stuff along the way when the actual swap takes place. Welcoming any help, here, so yeay! party1:
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Spline count is the same but the yoke design is different iirc (might just be the outer diameter or I could be blowing smoke out my ass) and the driveshaft length is different due to the transfer case rear output housing redesign 95-96.
tykby3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cumming, GA
well figured out that my 96 trans is no good, but i know a guy that maybe parting out his 98, so why couldn't i get all of his stuff for my 96 jeep. the only thing i'm not sure about on it is what rear axle it has.
lowicz96
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flint/Asheville
I didnt read thru this whole thread but i do have experience converting to 4wd, I did it to my 95. I did my conversion in 3 steps because its my DD and i had to get to work and school. 1st step was front axle, 2nd rear axle (c8.25 to c8.25 so nothing was different) and last step was the trans and tcase. I guess there was a 4th step which was the tcase linkage and other small stuff. I did it all by myself except the trans, i had my dad help me with that. Overall very easy swap
98 into a 96 can be done but depends on when the 96 was made. Stupid Chrysler switched over a few things in the middle of 96 like connectors and whatnot. You have to check to make sure the 96 TCU will talk to the 98 trans.
98 into a 96 can be done but depends on when the 96 was made. Stupid Chrysler switched over a few things in the middle of 96 like connectors and whatnot. You have to check to make sure the 96 TCU will talk to the 98 trans.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
partially incorrect... the changes were 96 to 97 (minor, connectors) and 97 to 98 (major and will require a decent amount of parts swapping, but still doable if you are motivated.) It's not just connectors. I believe I already covered this in excruciating detail.
tykby3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cumming, GA
one more question, I forget how to tell the difference between the c8.25 and the dana 35.
faraiwe
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NE Florida
Update.
Front axle cleaned. Still have to hit trans. One question is populating my thoughts; should I bother changing the axle gear case oil? The action is smooth, and there seems to be no leakage, but manual says change at 90k miles, the axle came from a vehicle with 120k, and even though the vehicle seemed dealer-maintained (who else uses MOPAR oil filters??), I am skeptical they did the change. Manual is annoyingly mute when concerning the oil type (closest hint is SAE 80W-90, no word on how much). Should I sweat it and research or just go with the 80W-90? When changing oil in differentials of MRAPs (basically a dump truck with an armored cage on the back) we filled them case to about halfway. Should I assume same procedure here? Is there a potential VBT(®, ©, tm) from overfilling?
Next step is cleaning the trans, drain whatever is left of fluid, I am considering changing the filter, and gasket as well. For the hell of it, why not? No, really, is there a reason why I shouldn't?:dunno:
Oh, yes. Haven't found the damned rear drive shaft, yet. This is bumming me. Must haz vrooms, soon.
Front axle cleaned. Still have to hit trans. One question is populating my thoughts; should I bother changing the axle gear case oil? The action is smooth, and there seems to be no leakage, but manual says change at 90k miles, the axle came from a vehicle with 120k, and even though the vehicle seemed dealer-maintained (who else uses MOPAR oil filters??), I am skeptical they did the change. Manual is annoyingly mute when concerning the oil type (closest hint is SAE 80W-90, no word on how much). Should I sweat it and research or just go with the 80W-90? When changing oil in differentials of MRAPs (basically a dump truck with an armored cage on the back) we filled them case to about halfway. Should I assume same procedure here? Is there a potential VBT(®, ©, tm) from overfilling?
Next step is cleaning the trans, drain whatever is left of fluid, I am considering changing the filter, and gasket as well. For the hell of it, why not? No, really, is there a reason why I shouldn't?:dunno:
Oh, yes. Haven't found the damned rear drive shaft, yet. This is bumming me. Must haz vrooms, soon.
The Merg
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southern Maryland
Yes, change the diff fluid. Fill it to the plug. I've always used 80w-90.
And yeah, might as well change the transmission oil filter. It's easy enough while it's out of the vehicle.
Where in MD are you? I've got a rear driveshaft for ya.
And yeah, might as well change the transmission oil filter. It's easy enough while it's out of the vehicle.
Where in MD are you? I've got a rear driveshaft for ya.
faraiwe
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NE Florida
Oooh, oooh, ooooh, pick me pick me pick me!! :wave1:
I'm just north of Baltimore, around Bel Air. How do we go about this, then? Do you need a pic of the rear diff, to make sure it's all copacetic? And, most importantly, what beer?
I'm just north of Baltimore, around Bel Air. How do we go about this, then? Do you need a pic of the rear diff, to make sure it's all copacetic? And, most importantly, what beer?
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faraiwe
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NE Florida
ALSO! Question for forumites who also hate the goofy-a$$ linkage for the transfer case shifter.
Has anyone bought and installed one of these: http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm and, if so, what's the word on it, aside being on the expensive side?
Novak #SK2XC
Has anyone bought and installed one of these: http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm and, if so, what's the word on it, aside being on the expensive side?
Novak #SK2XC
The Merg
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southern Maryland
PM sent :thumbup:
Edit: Just re-read above, the shaft I have is from a '92. Can he use it with a bit of tweaking or did I get hopes up for nothing?
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faraiwe
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NE Florida
This must be a curse. I just came back from "forced vacations" (long story, involves in-laws, don't ask), and went back to scavenging for a driveshaft.
NADA.
There must be a curse. That's it.:huh:
NADA.
There must be a curse. That's it.:huh:
- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
I'm headdin' out to the boneyard in a couple hours--
'96+, AW4, 4WD, C8.25
--is what you're hunting for, yes? If I find one, I'll let ya know. We can set up a time to meet and transfer the missing link if it's there-- I know Harford County pretty well as of 1990, but rumor has it everything has changed since then.
It's easy. It has got to be the easiest conversions to do. The stuff just bolts up and you can do it in pieces, like putting the trans on and then the transfer case so that you don't need a crazy trans jack. Go to the U pull it Yard and you can do it for less than $400.
Don't let anyone tell you it is hard or that it is expensive. I bought a 2WD 1990 Cherokee and it was so easy I was laughing my butt off the whole time. I bought my XJ for $300 and put another $200 in steering box and pump "leaking like a mutha" $60 for headliner cloth and glue then another $400 for the parts from the U pull it yard. $960 Cherokee. Next is prepping it for paint then off to Maaco for a $400 paint job.
And you can pick good clean stuff from a dozen different trucks and get really nice stuff that doesn't have leaks. Look for oil and dirt around the seals. If not, replacing seals is something you want to probably do anyway. Get all the little brackets, boots, screws too. Console. , the holes and harness is all there pre installed. I even had the bulb in the dash for AWD indicator. Plug and play.
If you can't do this conversion stick to air filter and oil changes. A friend can be very helpful but I did mine by myself "most people can". I don't think you need the ECM. I didn't need it. It doesn't do anything for the 4WD, at least for the older models.
You need:
Drive shafts 2x $40 "for both"
Trans $120
Transfer case $85
T-case shift $23
Front Axle $87 Make sure you match axle ratios. And you need the brakes. 2WD are different "smaller".
Total $355 + tax $20 for console if you want it.
These are the totals for the U Pull and Pay in Denver but should be close to other help yourself yards.
Check the website, they have the price list on it. U Pull And Pay dot com
Don't let anyone tell you it is hard or that it is expensive. I bought a 2WD 1990 Cherokee and it was so easy I was laughing my butt off the whole time. I bought my XJ for $300 and put another $200 in steering box and pump "leaking like a mutha" $60 for headliner cloth and glue then another $400 for the parts from the U pull it yard. $960 Cherokee. Next is prepping it for paint then off to Maaco for a $400 paint job.
And you can pick good clean stuff from a dozen different trucks and get really nice stuff that doesn't have leaks. Look for oil and dirt around the seals. If not, replacing seals is something you want to probably do anyway. Get all the little brackets, boots, screws too. Console. , the holes and harness is all there pre installed. I even had the bulb in the dash for AWD indicator. Plug and play.
If you can't do this conversion stick to air filter and oil changes. A friend can be very helpful but I did mine by myself "most people can". I don't think you need the ECM. I didn't need it. It doesn't do anything for the 4WD, at least for the older models.
You need:
Drive shafts 2x $40 "for both"
Trans $120
Transfer case $85
T-case shift $23
Front Axle $87 Make sure you match axle ratios. And you need the brakes. 2WD are different "smaller".
Total $355 + tax $20 for console if you want it.
These are the totals for the U Pull and Pay in Denver but should be close to other help yourself yards.
Check the website, they have the price list on it. U Pull And Pay dot com
faraiwe
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NE Florida
::dusts thread:: WHoo-weee!!
Sooo.... life has been crazy, and the project got shelved until pretty much now. I am *still* looking for that rear shaft, and perhaps other idi... ADVENTURERS in the area who are willing to embark with a complete n00b in that conversion.
The only progress I've made towards the project was minimal; installing the lever and trim (whacking that shameless plug of a cover the 2WD has instead of the well for the lever was interesting); did a cleaning + inspection on the differential and changed the diff fluid; acquired new gasket and trans filter for the trans I got sitting in the garage, plus assorted fluids.
Interesting take on the brakes. There doesn't seem to be any noticeable difference between the axles (front axle with diff sitting in garage along with trans), regarding break calipers. Are there any other parts I might wanna consider changing? Would I need to replace any seals, gaskets, etc?
I'm wondering if there any fellow grease monkeys in or around the area, willing to offer some direction.
Sooo.... life has been crazy, and the project got shelved until pretty much now. I am *still* looking for that rear shaft, and perhaps other idi... ADVENTURERS in the area who are willing to embark with a complete n00b in that conversion.
The only progress I've made towards the project was minimal; installing the lever and trim (whacking that shameless plug of a cover the 2WD has instead of the well for the lever was interesting); did a cleaning + inspection on the differential and changed the diff fluid; acquired new gasket and trans filter for the trans I got sitting in the garage, plus assorted fluids.
Interesting take on the brakes. There doesn't seem to be any noticeable difference between the axles (front axle with diff sitting in garage along with trans), regarding break calipers. Are there any other parts I might wanna consider changing? Would I need to replace any seals, gaskets, etc?
I'm wondering if there any fellow grease monkeys in or around the area, willing to offer some direction.
