Can't break spot welds on rear shock nuts?

[RichP]

STFU dude, I considered that method, but...

1. I wanted to be able to easily change them again later and I figured that way they would probably freeze up again like they did before. I wanted to set it up with a stud poking down from the top and the nut on the bottom so that if disaster struck and the bolt froze, in future I would be able to use a nut splitter to break the nut in half. I wish Jeep could have set it up like this in the first place...

2. I'm really bad at drill and tap, I always manage to get the bolt to go in all crooked.

3. I heard elsewhere that the nut is small and won't stand up to a drill and tap, however now I know firsthand that this is not true.

:gonnablow

I'm always suprised that jeep did did not put the damn plugs back there to begin with, they got plugs everywhere else. That includes an access hole for the fuel pump too, they did it in dodges, why not jeeps.
As for the drill n tap, yea, it can be a PIA, I just had to do two on sat on my TJ, the two big ones in the frame to tie the new bumper into. Took me about 45 min per hole but at least I got the old bolts out, went next size up on those.

 

[myXJspace]

Looks like I'll have to do the holesaw route too - I can't imagine I'll be able to drill thru the bolts since 2 of 'em have EZ-Outs broke off in them!

 

[RichP]

Looks like I'll have to do the holesaw route too - I can't imagine I'll be able to drill thru the bolts since 2 of 'em have EZ-Outs broke off in them!

Easy outs are the work of the devil...

 

[darjevon]

Looks like I'll have to do the holesaw route too - I can't imagine I'll be able to drill thru the bolts since 2 of 'em have EZ-Outs broke off in them!

If you do the holesaw thing I suggest getting a 2-inch diameter one, as i had to search all day to find a 54mm plug (for some reason I thought that looked like the best size), and Home Depot has 2-inch aluminum "knock-out" plugs for like $1 each.

I would also suggest using or borrowing a corded drill, as I used both of my 18v cordless drill's batteries up completely having drilled one and one half holes. It's a pretty strenuous application for a drill.

Good luck mate,
Joe

 

[87manche]

Easy outs are the work of the devil...

x2

I'd rather just start with a drill bit than even attempt easy outs.

Easier to go to a larger bolt than it is to try and drill through hardened steel.

 

[myXJspace]

If you do the holesaw thing I suggest getting a 2-inch diameter one, as i had to search all day to find a 54mm plug (for some reason I thought that looked like the best size), and Home Depot has 2-inch aluminum "knock-out" plugs for like $1 each.

I would also suggest using or borrowing a corded drill, as I used both of my 18v cordless drill's batteries up completely having drilled one and one half holes. It's a pretty strenuous application for a drill.

Good luck mate,
Joe

Thanx - was wondering 'bout the best dia. I've already got the drill - had to cut thru 10ga galv with 3" holesaw on another project, so this should be like butter.

Now to find Grade 8 hardware..

 

[darjevon]

Thanx - was wondering 'bout the best dia. I've already got the drill - had to cut thru 10ga galv with 3" holesaw on another project, so this should be like butter.

Now to find Grade 8 hardware..

You can actually get the perfect hardware at Autozone. Grade 8, 5/16" thread, 1 1/4" long hardware is sold in little packs. It is sold under the brand name Dorman. It can also be found at O' Reilly auto parts, if you have one near you.

I finally finished screwing all of my cargo area trim back in today, it looks great, and you would never know the difference. I know the difference though - no "getting air" when going over railway tracks at 30 mph.

 

[whatevah]

those blasted rear upper shock bolts... 3 of them snapped on my XJ, ended up using a grinder to make access panels and drilling out the old bolts and put in new bolts with a new nut and tightening it down. sealed it up with a healthy coating of RTV. hope I won't have to open it up for a loooong time.

 

[darjevon]

those blasted rear upper shock bolts... 3 of them snapped on my XJ, ended up using a grinder to make access panels and drilling out the old bolts and put in new bolts with a new nut and tightening it down. sealed it up with a healthy coating of RTV. hope I won't have to open it up for a loooong time.

lol I also used RTV on mine.

Once again, thanks to all who helped me with my project.

 

[Markos]

Thought I would add to this post. I snapped 3 of the 4 rear shock bolts. I tried drilling one for an hour. The bolt drilled with ease but the nut was tough. I ran to the store and bought an air hammer, which removed the welded nuts with ease. There is a lot of mention of fishing bolts through holes in the frame etc, but few pics. Here are a few pics from my recent install.

This is the nut inside the frame. Notice the tack welds. Removed with air hammer:


This is the area on the frame (above the axle) where you fish new bolts through. I could actually fit part of my weak hand on the passenger side. I had to use a socket and extension to fish the bolts through on the passenger side. I used anti-seize on the bolt head to keep it fixed within the socket.


I replaced the standard bolts with 13mm (head) bolts and nuts. They are currently smothered with antiseize.


This is what it looks like 'behind the scenes'. Note that there is no way that you could actually see inside the frame in this manner, unless you were using a mirror.

 

[Tim_MN]

I just did mine new shocks this weekend. I snapped off the bolts on purpose and used an air chisel to pop the nuts loose. 3-5 seconds each nut on the air chisel trigger and the welded nuts were out. No cutting in the floor is needed.

I fished in some new hardware with a wrench and masking tape, and it's all done.

 

[RichP]

Next time, superglue some nylon fishing line to the end of the bolt, fish the line thru and pull it, bolt will follow.. I've done this with the CPS bolts being super paranoid that one would fall in only superglued it to the head using 2lb test.
I've got big hands so have been using this trick for years..

 

[Rick Anderson]

I replaced the standard bolts with 13mm (head) bolts and nuts. They are currently smothered with antiseize.


This is what it looks like 'behind the scenes'. Note that there is no way that you could actually see inside the frame in this manner, unless you were using a mirror.

Is that Grade 8 (SAE) or Hardness 10.9 (Metric) hardware? You didn't say, and its a good job, but for suspension, I wouldn't use anything less than grade 8/hardness 10.9 for hardware, it can snap under the stress and create bad problems.

 

[BIGSLVRXJ]

Is that Grade 8 (SAE) or Hardness 10.9 (Metric) hardware? You didn't say, and its a good job, but for suspension, I wouldn't use anything less than grade 8/hardness 10.9 for hardware, it can snap under the stress and create bad problems.

It looks like Grade 5 judging from the marks on the bolthead which I would say is probably enough in a shock application like the XJ's. It could be grade 8 too though, I've always used stainless on mine when I've gone this route and it's worked great.

 

[Markos]

Is that Grade 8 (SAE) or Hardness 10.9 (Metric) hardware? You didn't say, and its a good job, but for suspension, I wouldn't use anything less than grade 8/hardness 10.9 for hardware, it can snap under the stress and create bad problems.

Thanks for pointing that out. It's a bit misleading with all the grease. They are 10.9 metric. The bolts are actually black, but they are completely smeared with anti-seize. I did use standard galvanized fender washers on the top though. The underside used a hardened nut, washer, and lock washer (black also). Hopefully they will hold up...

 

[Rick Anderson]

I don't think regular fender washers would be a problem, unless you've torn open a hole bigger than the bolt head or nut that could pull thru the fender washer. I'm sure 10.9 will do just fine. The anti-seize should help prevent seizing up again from rust.

Personally, I used blue lock-thread. The lock-thread will harden and prevent any moisture from getting into the threads. Every bolt I've ever pulled, the threads under the lock-tire were perfectly fine. I've never had a problem pulling a bolt with blue lock-thread, sometimes it takes an extra grunt to break the bolt loose, but once its started it backs right out, and NEVER BREAKS.

I'm sure the anti-seize will work well also.

 

[Cox89XJ]

Drill them out next size down from whats in there and rethread the darn things with a tap. Use plenty of anti-seize on the new ones.

That's what I did on mine, worked good.