kmanxj5050
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Reed City Michigan
It took me three hours if not more to do the mj one. Had the one out of the motor on the stand and new in about a half an hour
-
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Build thread: Johnny 5 and his pal Henry
- Thread starter altrocker1
- Start date
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
well i think i have everything but the serp belt and the downpipe to get her back together. the downpipe left grove city ohio at 7pm today and its about 4 hours today, so hopefully it will get here tomorrow.
for anyone who had done a dizzy to cam sensor swap, did you use a gasket? i cannot find one anywhere here. i called the chryco parts department here and they said the part didn't exist, but the part stores show one needed, but they don't have them anywhere in stock. i had napa send one in from the warehouse so i have to wait till tomorrow to install it. i was hoping to put the motor in tomorrow, but it looks like that will be impossible...maybe tomorrow night now
for anyone who had done a dizzy to cam sensor swap, did you use a gasket? i cannot find one anywhere here. i called the chryco parts department here and they said the part didn't exist, but the part stores show one needed, but they don't have them anywhere in stock. i had napa send one in from the warehouse so i have to wait till tomorrow to install it. i was hoping to put the motor in tomorrow, but it looks like that will be impossible...maybe tomorrow night now
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
no..rock auto, advance, napa and autojerk all show a paper gasket from felpro for it. there isn't an oring on the one i took out and it fits really tight. its only $2 for the one from napa so i'm just going to pick it up in the am and try to figure it out. i'm heading out to work for a few hours, so hopefully thats one of the only things left tomorrow..
- Location
- Michigan
I didn't use one.
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
well ya'll talked me into it...changed the rear main (the old one took forever to get out...it still looked new and was sealed in super tight. but got it in and replaced the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and a few other things. the main bearing looked great as did all the other components. not an ounce of sludge in the pan on on the valves. tomorrow will be water pump, injector o-rings, manifolds and then mate it with the tranny and put it in. was hoping to have it fully assembled tonight, but like i said, that old seal fought pretty hard...i also keep thinking of things that i should do while i have the motor out
kmanxj5050
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Reed City Michigan
I didn't use a gasket either.
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
crap..thanks for remind me. i need to start making lists. i have one that i bought for another jeep that i was going to use on it, so its not currently sitting in my parts pile. i almost forgot about it
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
umm...can someone tell me what i'm not doing right here. engine is at TDC (timing mark at zero) and cam sensor doens't look right. i followed the instructions i found online, and even pulled the timing cover on the broken motor to see if the marks were off. both motors same result? this is my first time working on a cam sensor on a 99+ so its making me grumpy
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altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
also...in other news...
after pulling the pan to check for the broken skirt piece and not finding one, i was a little confused. that was until i pulled the timing cover to check the timing marks on the broken motor and found this...its a broken timing chain guide. it appears that there is a good chance that this was the noise i was hearing. i checked all the bearings and rods and all the pistons. this is the only loose piece i can find. part of me wants to replace the guide, put the motor back together and try to sell it. at the very least, the cylinder walls look really good, so this could be a good rebuild candidate. its a little annoying that thats all it was, but i was going to have to pull the head and would probably replace the timing chain and some other stuff anyway if i had been able to figure it out. i've never actually heard of one of these breaking before.
the rest of the night was a little frustrating. i spent too much time dicking with the timing and not enough time working. got the motor almost all the way back together with the accessories mounted. but i found out the OFA that i have from a previous project is for a renix...so that will still need to happen. i also forgot that i was going to use the PS pump from the parts wj, so now i have to pull that and put it on tomorrow. time has been scarce with having to take care of the baby. i'm about 2 days behind where i wanted to be getting this sucker running
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altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
now that i'm out of town and cant work on getting the motor in...its time to think about paint. the desert tan is looking like a great idea due to cost. this seems to be the place to order from
https://www.armyjeepparts.net/t-GCI_paint.aspx
right now i think the desert tan/black look will be what i'm after. the paint on the site is sold by the gallon, but there is a haz mat charge. the more you buy, the less the cost it. i think two gallons makes it about $58 bucks a gallon. that should give me plenty for 2 coats on the jeep and some for the trailer. you can use any good enamel reducer to cut it...i also learned that you can safely apply a coat of matte clear to it to protect it from scratches and such...all in total, it should be possible to paint the whole thing for $200-300 bucks. I'm going to have to go to someone elses place to do it since i dont have a compressor in the garage yet.
anyone here ever done military painting? just curious about how you clean it to keep it grime and oil free?
https://www.armyjeepparts.net/t-GCI_paint.aspx
right now i think the desert tan/black look will be what i'm after. the paint on the site is sold by the gallon, but there is a haz mat charge. the more you buy, the less the cost it. i think two gallons makes it about $58 bucks a gallon. that should give me plenty for 2 coats on the jeep and some for the trailer. you can use any good enamel reducer to cut it...i also learned that you can safely apply a coat of matte clear to it to protect it from scratches and such...all in total, it should be possible to paint the whole thing for $200-300 bucks. I'm going to have to go to someone elses place to do it since i dont have a compressor in the garage yet.
anyone here ever done military painting? just curious about how you clean it to keep it grime and oil free?
kmanxj5050
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Reed City Michigan
Did you get the cam sensor?
I always followed the instruction in the haynes manual
I always followed the instruction in the haynes manual
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
well i think so...but i think the oil pump drive is a tooth off...meaning no matter what i do, its going to be cockeyed. i figured out what i was doing wrong on the bad motor and got it lined up, the repeated the process several times on the new motor and its still pointed at the block. i don't think its possible to get it set with the sensor pointing back, so i guess i'm going to give it a shot as is
- Location
- Michigan
When I did mine, I put the donor motor at tdc (with using the #1 piston), and then good motor also at tdc. I put the cam sensor in the good motor in the same position.
From what I understand, it doesn't have to be perfect, the pcm uses the cam sensor as reference.
From what I understand, it doesn't have to be perfect, the pcm uses the cam sensor as reference.
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
they do exist...i had one shipped to me since they were nowhere to be found in the parts stores. i figured if it got to me before i dropped the motor in, then so be it...if not , just as well. got here today in the nick of time. today was a busy day...finished a few odds and ends on the motor, then mounted the flexplate, tc and mated the tranny to it. got all that buttoned up and got the motor in the air when i remembered that i broke the stupid connector on the kickdown cable of the donor tranny so i had to drop everything down and pull the pan to swap the cable with the stock tranny...after making a nice mess of tranny fluid in the driveway, i finally got the drivetrain in place and bolted up. the enginebay is all connected, but i have a few grounds that i have to find places for since the 96 block doesn't have as many studs on it as the 2000. didn't have time to snap a pick, but i have to connect all the tranny sensors tomorrow, fill with fluids and i should be able to start it by tomorrow night...i get some pics and hopefully a video then
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
ugh...so close now. everything is hooked back up other than the radiator and the downpipe. only had about an hour to work since the baby was being a little crabby today.
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
well biggest hurdle is over...she runs and fires right up. i was a little annoyed when i turned the key though and nothing happened 
i'm not sure what is going yet. i pulled and cleaned the nss from the old tranny and put it on the donor tranny, so i think it needs to be adjusted correctly. i tried to make marks, but clearly i didn't do something right. so for not, starting it with a screwdriver will have to do the trick. things left to do to the motor:
1.) radiator hoses...the ones the part store gave me were not right. all 4 were the wrong size. thinking they may have grabbed wj ones by mistake. i used the old hoses for now and bypassed the heater core
2.) plumb a/c lines...i pulled them off to replace the o-rings in the hopes that the system was okay. if not, then i guess i'm probably going to have to pull the dash apart sometime
3.) battery cables...the ones that are there are really bad.
4.) adjust the NSS
5.)button up the exhaust.
after that she should be ready for a test drive. hopefully will get to some of it tonight
this vid is of the 2nd fire...i figured there was no chance it would fire right off on the first try, but it did. seems like i got the cam sensor close enough for now.
http://s528.photobucket.com/user/altrocker2/media/0901141455_zpsbae53e92.mp4.html
http://s528.photobucket.com/user/altrocker2/media/0901141458_zpsbd936c81.mp4.html
i'm not sure what is going yet. i pulled and cleaned the nss from the old tranny and put it on the donor tranny, so i think it needs to be adjusted correctly. i tried to make marks, but clearly i didn't do something right. so for not, starting it with a screwdriver will have to do the trick. things left to do to the motor:1.) radiator hoses...the ones the part store gave me were not right. all 4 were the wrong size. thinking they may have grabbed wj ones by mistake. i used the old hoses for now and bypassed the heater core
2.) plumb a/c lines...i pulled them off to replace the o-rings in the hopes that the system was okay. if not, then i guess i'm probably going to have to pull the dash apart sometime
3.) battery cables...the ones that are there are really bad.
4.) adjust the NSS
5.)button up the exhaust.
after that she should be ready for a test drive. hopefully will get to some of it tonight
this vid is of the 2nd fire...i figured there was no chance it would fire right off on the first try, but it did. seems like i got the cam sensor close enough for now.
http://s528.photobucket.com/user/altrocker2/media/0901141455_zpsbae53e92.mp4.html
http://s528.photobucket.com/user/altrocker2/media/0901141458_zpsbd936c81.mp4.html
- Location
- Warsaw, IN
Looks like you have put a lot of work into it so far. Will all be worth it in the end.
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