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Boostwerks.com turbo XJ build...

Do you have any plans do produce the down pipe?

~Alex
 
Would the Split Second PSC1-002 and either an FMU or proper injector setup suffice for the older systems?

I can point to at least one person using the Split Second with an FMU, but he'll be getting rid of the FMU soon in favor of better (I think Ford 5.0) injectors. The main problem is that his turbo is mounted near where the A/C compressor is, because he would otherwise need major modification (ie. what you're doing!) to make it fit anywhere else.

What is the possibility of a manifold for the 2.5L? We all know that these things need some help in power, haha... It would require less materials and therefore work... and there might be a little bit more room to work with...

The FTC1 would be a better choice as it could control both fuel/ignition. However, the AEM would work fine for OBD1 vehicles as far as I know of. The whole point of the piggy back (for FI) is to control larger injectors. No FMU would be needed.

The possibility of a 2.5l manifold is almost guaranteed. However, it will be quite some time before I can get too it.

I wonder how hard a piggyback Megasquirt would be? It would certianly be cheaper than the AEm and it can do anything the AEM/FAST/Holley/Motec units can do.

As easy as building it, and tuning it. I definetly wouldn't say that it could do everything a FAST and Motec can do. Those are two completely different worlds of ECU's ;)

Do you have any plans do produce the down pipe?

Definetly. But only for the 3" v-band housings, which happen to be the housing I HIGHLY reccomend. Once you use a V-band type connection, you never want to go back to bolts. It'll also allow me to build just 1 style of DP to fit a wide variety of turbo's.
 
Do you think it would be possible to run this turbo/manifold setup at about 4-5 psi non-intercooled without an aftermarket ECU? I realize that it would have better "driveability" and make more power if it were tuned correctly, but do you think a setup like this could be safe with just bigger injectors and a timing retard box, along with an air to fuel ratio gauge to make sure the motor isn't running lean?
 
having tuned FAST and Megasquirt. I can say that MS can do 99% of what FAST can do. It just requires some DIY and electrical knowledge. Especially since the IO board now lets you control GM's latest electronic trans and AFM.

No real experience with Motec since it's mostly on ricers making a whopping 400hp with 10k invested. lol
 
Do you think it would be possible to run this turbo/manifold setup at about 4-5 psi non-intercooled without an aftermarket ECU? I realize that it would have better "driveability" and make more power if it were tuned correctly, but do you think a setup like this could be safe with just bigger injectors and a timing retard box, along with an air to fuel ratio gauge to make sure the motor isn't running lean?

Sure it's possible, but is it safe? no. You really need to get the motor properlly tuned, unless you want to risk blowing the motor. It needs an AFR of around 12:1 under boost, and about .5-1 degree of timing retard per lb of boost. Running too rich, is also dangerous as you run the possibility of washing out the rings. To properly tune you need a wideband O2 sensor not just a narrow band guage.

What would be the minimum compression ratio you could have to run a kit like this? Not looking for a bajillion psi, just something to give a little more get up.

The factory compression ratio is actually PERFECT for boost. The nice thing about external WG's are that you can run whatever boost you'd like (everything from 2-30psi+). If all you want is an extra 30hp, it can do it. It'd be kind of a waste of money IMHO, but it'll do it no problem.


No real experience with Motec since it's mostly on ricers making a whopping 400hp with 10k invested. lol

Not exactly lol. It's actually on most of the NHRA pro drag's. Just ask Tony Palo (fastest FWD street car on the planet) who swears by Motec.
 
Hey is there any updates to this turbo system for the 4.0L?? Im pretty interested in the kit. Is anyone currently running this on their XJ? PICS would do wonders!!
 
The factory compression ratio is actually PERFECT for boost. The nice thing about external WG's are that you can run whatever boost you'd like (everything from 2-30psi+). If all you want is an extra 30hp, it can do it. It'd be kind of a waste of money IMHO, but it'll do it no problem.
.

Im running 8.98:1 CR (factory 8.76:1), with a lot better quench than factory(.057 to .073 factory), so it can tolerate more compression. I would probly run whatever I can without comprismising reliability too much.
 
Quality set up it appears.

Great job on this. Although I won't be getting it (already have a twin turbo car), it's a great option for a lot of people out there that want more power.
 
I started doing some research on the necessary parts to build this. The turbo is where i get hung up. You listed that the turbo can be had new for around $650. I found a couple on Ebay listed as new and can be had for $200 shipped. But who knows of the quality. So i have a couple questions on locating these turbos.

1st. Where are a couple good sources for buying these?

2Nd Are there any other Turbos that will comparable? maybe like a slightly smaller one to spool up faster but with less boost and then another larger one?

3rd. Are there any factory vehicles that we may be able to find these turbos on? granted wrecking yards may not be the best options but they might be the way i will go at first to see if a turbo is really going to be the best thing for me.

Dingo
 
I have $500 in parts in my entire build to this point. Im running an AFC, BTM and some injectors though. Im building an up pipe kit with all cheap or used parts. Im using a cheap ebay turbo but you need to remember these are made in china and are hit or miss. The quality turbo is the way to go if you have the money. If I decide I like the way this kit Im doing fits Im going to jig it up and make another one for my daily driver and that will get a garrett.
 
I started doing some research on the necessary parts to build this. The turbo is where i get hung up. You listed that the turbo can be had new for around $650. I found a couple on Ebay listed as new and can be had for $200 shipped. But who knows of the quality. So i have a couple questions on locating these turbos.

1st. Where are a couple good sources for buying these?

2Nd Are there any other Turbos that will comparable? maybe like a slightly smaller one to spool up faster but with less boost and then another larger one?

3rd. Are there any factory vehicles that we may be able to find these turbos on? granted wrecking yards may not be the best options but they might be the way i will go at first to see if a turbo is really going to be the best thing for me.

Dingo

Definetly stay away from Ebay turbos! Turbo's require excellent machining tolerances and raw materials, both of which those cheap turbo's can't offer. When it comes to a turbo, stick to a brand name such as Garrett, Borg Warner, Precision (garrett components), Holset. I highly reccomend any Garrett or Borg Warner turbo. They have both highly proven themselves in the OEM and aftermarket.

I reccomend Terry @ Boostfed.com for getting any Garrett or Borg Warner turbo, and other various turbo charging components. I have bought many things from Terry including this turbo and WG, and have never had a problem. I also reccomend ATPturbo.com, and cheapturbo.com.

The nice thing about the T3 turbo flange is that you can choose a turbo that will give the powerband your looking for, without a drastic physical change in turbo size. If you want the absolutely quickest spool with lower overall output, a Garrett super 60 would be perfect. However, if you can manage a slightly laggier spool, with a much higher power potential (500+hp) a Precision SC61 would be the way to go. But I honestly think the 57 trim borg that I have will be perfect for the 4.0l and the mild yet safe powerband I'm looking for.

I honestly don't reccomend searching the bone yard for turbos, but there definetly choices out there. I do however, reccomend for the budget builder to check out classifieds for used aftermarket units. Import forums are a great place to check as most of those guys swap turbo's more than underwear. :dunce:

can you send me the solidworks files? i am a ME student at UML and i would find it very interesting to see stuff like this in the design process!!

Please don't take this the wrong way, but I'd honestly rather not. I'd like the keep the drawing file to myself until I've finished the fabrication. It's also on my work computer which unfortunetly happens to be buried since we just switched buildings.
 
The nice thing about the T3 turbo flange is that you can choose a turbo that will give the powerband your looking for, without a drastic physical change in turbo size. If you want the absolutely quickest spool with lower overall output, a Garrett super 60 would be perfect. However, if you can manage a slightly laggier spool, with a much higher power potential (500+hp) a Precision SC61 would be the way to go. But I honestly think the 57 trim borg that I have will be perfect for the 4.0l and the mild yet safe powerband I'm looking for.

I honestly don't reccomend searching the bone yard for turbos, but there definetly choices out there. I do however, reccomend for the budget builder to check out classifieds for used aftermarket units. Import forums are a great place to check as most of those guys swap turbo's more than underwear. :dunce:


I just didn't want to spend the money on a new turbo until I'm happy with the powerband. Plus in my case this is going on a 4.5L stroker not a normal 4.0L. I still haven't bought a Cam or done anything with the heads until i decide whether or not forced induction is really the way i want to go. and then if turbo or supercharged will be better. I know the differences between them. That's not my issue. it's if i want to do it. and how cheap can it be done in the trial and error dept before a final design. plus with a cheap turbo i can set it up on this motor then swap it all to the new motor. and if anything goes wrong, i only loose a really tired 4.0 and not a new 4.5L

Dingo
 
Manifold - $600-$700
3" SS down pipe - $200
external WG option - $75
1.5" WG dump tube - $75
Intercooler kit - $400-500

Those are some spendy prices.

A log style manifold for $600-$700? That is very expensive in my opinion for a poor flowing design.

You could offer mild steel for a much cheaper price as an alternative.

My .02.
 
Please don't take this the wrong way, but I'd honestly rather not. I'd like the keep the drawing file to myself until I've finished the fabrication. It's also on my work computer which unfortunetly happens to be buried since we just switched buildings.

its all good.... man, well if you ever want to send me some SW files of failed designs or old stuff or whatever i have found it hard to find people in industry that want to share thier designs even tho i am only a student...not looking to make any money in just interested.
 
Those are some spendy prices.

A log style manifold for $600-$700? That is very expensive in my opinion for a poor flowing design.

You could offer mild steel for a much cheaper price as an alternative.

My .02.

4 banger log style turbo manifolds go for about 400 bucks. Turbo manifolds are to allow the turbo to spool up faster and the entire manifold is made out of high quality stainless steel that is mandrel bent too.

~Alex
 
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