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Blown engine?

Rocketman said:
Looking at your FSM, you may need to remove the exhaust. Soak the bolts with some PB Blaster and wait an hour or so, come back soak again and give it a try.

Josh... PM Martin or Eagle for some good "driveway advice." They are 2 of the best!
I'd agree. SOak the bolts with PB Blaster at least an hour if not overnight. Try to take them off then. If no luck, heat them up a bit and let them cool down, then soak them with PB again and try it. Exhaust and brakes can virtually weld themselves together with rust. It can be a real pain to get it off. I think pulling the oil pan is the least amount of work to see whats wrong in there. I'd also pull the spark plugs and look at them. Any of them damaged, then there's problems. Actually, that might be your easiest step for the moment. Then pull the oil pan.
Tom
 
You might squirt some oil in each cylinder and try and rock the crank back and forth. I think you will need to pull the pan. At least that way you can see about everything, cylinder bores, timing chain, oil pump.
Tom
 
i know i'll probably get heat for this, but you guys really need to read before posting. i think just about every one of your replies has told him something he has already done. i'm sure he's getting pretty tired of repeating himself over and over.

so you have the valve cover off, oil drained, plugs out, belt off, and it still won't move. you already know that you should remove the exhaust and pull the oil pan, so i'd go with that for now.

now i'm not 100% sure on this, but if i remember right, you should be able to unbolt the exhaust pipe from the manifold and right after the cat. drop it and pull the pan. take your time looking at everything very carefully and most likely you'll be able to see where/what caused it to seize. if you need help locating certain parts on the vehicle or other detailed information to work on your jeep, go to www.alldata.com and get yourself a subscription for your vehicle. i think it's like $15 a year. it helps alot. it's the same software that most dealerships use.

also while your down there, just pull the starter, just to make sure. disconnect the battery, remove cables from starter and remove starter. now try turning the engine again. chances are that's not what's blocking it, but it would suck if it was and you didn't try it. it's something simple to remove.

edit: i just thought of something else. i doubt this is it, but make sure your cat didn't suddenly colapse or you have some other exhaust restriction. i don't think it should kill the engine that fast, but we did have a car at the chevy dealership that wouldn't run and it had a potato completely sealing the exhaust shut. so if for some reason something clogged your exhaust 100% shut real quick, then it might be possible that it could have killed the engine. doubt it, but possible. just seems weird that your engine would lock up without even the slightest sign of wear/metal in the oil when you drained it. you did drain it into a clean clear container right???
 
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Just had almost this same thing at work today. Grand Cherokee 4.0 would not turn over by hand either way. Customer said they were driving along and oil press. dropped to zero then just shut off....no noise, no bang or clunk. Pulled the pan and found that the rod and main bearings are toast. Also noticed it has been 8,000 miles since his last oil change, making me wonder how long he normally waits....What kind of filter do you have on it? I agree with most others, something is siezed. Plugs or not an engine should crank by hand at a least a little. Pull the pan and report.
 
Pull the valve cover (gaskets are cheap) and check to make sure all the valve stems are there. You might have dropped a valve (keepers came off, valve stuck in cylinder or bent in guide and hitting piston).
 
bdtsr said:
Pull the valve cover (gaskets are cheap) and check to make sure all the valve stems are there. You might have dropped a valve (keepers came off, valve stuck in cylinder or bent in guide and hitting piston).

I think he already pulled the valve cover.

As someone else mentioned, pull the starter. Just because you hear the solenoid click doesn't mean it's not stuck.

Does the crank/flywheel move at all or is it frozen solid? Other than a seized engine, it could possibly be the tranny or maybe a flywheel bolt backed out.
 
I can move the flywheel back and forth about 1/2 an inch or so. i havent had any time to look but i hope to tonight or tomorrow. thank you for all the help so far.
 
XJjosh said:
I can move the flywheel back and forth about 1/2 an inch or so. i havent had any time to look but i hope to tonight or tomorrow. thank you for all the help so far.

That's rotating right? Front-back would be bad. :}
 
bdtsr said:
Pull the valve cover (gaskets are cheap) .

just wanted to add something here, even though it's kinda drifting off topic. Valve cover gaskets for the 4.0 HO run anywhere from $37-52...depending on where you look. About 8 months ago I had to replace mine due to leaking, and ended up getting it from Napa for $42...WITH A DISCOUNT.
 
99XJSPORT06 said:
just wanted to add something here, even though it's kinda drifting off topic. Valve cover gaskets for the 4.0 HO run anywhere from $37-52...depending on where you look. About 8 months ago I had to replace mine due to leaking, and ended up getting it from Napa for $42...WITH A DISCOUNT.

wtf

I bought a felpro from advance saturday for 7 bucks with no discount.
 
Interesting....I went to every place around town when I needed one back then. Autozone was the most at $52, Advance was arount $48, as was Napa (before my disc.), and the Jeep dealer was the $37. Went with the Napa one b/c of convenience.

Did you get a cover made out of cork?
 
I just got a Felpro on Sunday from AutoZone for $4.99
Of course it isnt an HO engine, but the valve covers are nearly (if not exactly) identical, shouldn't cost too much more.
 
The newer gaskets (96+) are a rubber over steel gasket. THe older ones are usually a cork gasket. I've heard FelPro or someone else makes a ruberized cork gasket.
Tom
 
Ok, sorry for the delay. I have been so busy with work and selling my house I havent had time for anything. I put the engine back together and this is whats happening. Its rotating now. I start it up and I dont see the oil pressure go up at all. It sounds like grinding. Oil pump maybe?
 
If you can now run it, DON'T:shocked:

The grinding noise and no oil pressure tells me one thing, SPUN MAIN BEARING. Don't run the engine anymore and you may be able to replace the main bearings and still have a usable engine.

But you may want to have a rebuild done just to be on the safe side.
 
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