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BDS 4.5" LA vs Clayton 4.5" LA

JamesHatch

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Portland, Oregon
I am looking to build a daily driver/weekend XJ. My ideal lift is 4.5 inches with 33-inch tires and I value reliability above all else. I am currently torn between the BDS 4.5 inch long arm kit (https://bds-suspension.com/kit-customizer?kid=1427H#) and the Clayton Offroad 4.5 inch long arm (https://www.claytonoffroad.com/produ...t-1984-2001-xj). For the BDS, I plan on going with FOX 2.0 shocks and for the Clayton offroad, I plan on putting bilsteins in. As I see it, the Clayton has the advantage of a three-piece crossmember for easy transmission access as well as better bushings that can be bought at more autoparts stores. However, it also seems to use a radius arm set up (correct me if I am wrong), and this seems to be detrimental to strength and offroad performance. The BDS kit seems to have the advantage of a true 4 link setup and therefore better strength characteristics. Finally, BDS being a bigger company seems to be at less of a risk of going under and a better chance at being around when I eventually need to warranty parts out when compared to the smaller company that is Clayton's Offroad. Which kit would you guys recommended given all this information?

Thank you
 
Definitely Clayton... Also they offer a true 3 link alongside the radius arm. That's what I would do.

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There are a lot of LA set-up's out there, do some researching. You might also consider separate components so that you get a better selection of the springs and shocks. There are no "perfect out-the-door/all in one" kits.
 
I do have an Ironman 4X4 Long Arm front kit on order. Yes, $$$, but so is the Clayton. Some of the others I considered are IRO, Stinky Fab and Cavfab. I was warned about a one piece cross member. If you have to do trans work or some other stuff, you basically have to pull off the front suspension. As stated before lots of others. I think Dirtbound has one.
 
I run the iron 3 link. My reasonings were
3 piece xmember
Clearance (floor pan and tires)
And cost.
I've been very happy

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I was warned about a one piece cross member. If you have to do trans work or some other stuff, you basically have to pull off the front suspension.

That's not really a very accurate statement! When I did my trans build I left all the suspension intact while I pulled the crossmember.
P1080778.JPG
 
'That's not really a very accurate statement! When I did my trans build I left all the suspension intact while I pulled the crossmember.'

For those of us without a lift, I worry about the safety factor. Note that the front suspension is free or unattached. I do not trust jack stands if I'm underneath.
 
'That's not really a very accurate statement! When I did my trans build I left all the suspension intact while I pulled the crossmember.'

For those of us without a lift, I worry about the safety factor. Note that the front suspension is free or unattached. I do not trust jack stands if I'm underneath.

The lift has nothing to do with it, if you go with jack-stands they would still be placed on the frame-rail's.
 
Hell, with my 5.5" lift you could pull the trans with the sitting on the ground!
 
I don't like to use jackstands or at least the adjustable ones, if I'm under a vehicle. I do try and use wood pieces if available.
 
I don't like to use jackstands or at least the adjustable ones, if I'm under a vehicle. I do try and use wood pieces if available.

Cribbing sure doesn't sound safe as you don't have enough room. I use 4 jack-stands that carry 10k lbs each and also go tall enough.
P1080569_zpsdib4k3dm.jpg
 
Cribbing I would take as wood blocking. At a machine shop I worked at, the other side service Blunox Pavers. They used large wood blocks. I remember 2 ft square and 3 ft long or such.
At that shop, one of the guys got into a car accident. He told me of someone at therapy who was working on brakes on a car. The jackstand slipped out and the rotor came down on his hand. He had some thing to keep tension on his hand and screwed into each finger.
About that time I was working on a car at home, the jackstand slipped out. The rotor hit the garage floor. No damage to me. Also, when out on the trail, ????
 
As others have mentioned... there are more players in the long arms game than ever before, and some reeeal nice ones too!

That said, I vote Clayton's hands down. Had their LAs on my Zj and they were solid BEEF! At the time it was a real step.up from the competition as far as design is concerned. Options for 3 link, Johnny joint on both ends or mixing.. cross member, belly pan, etc etc.
I had an issue with ordering the wrong transmission mount or was sent the wrong one.. didn't catch it for a year before the install as it sat collecting dust. Hit them up and cooool as flip about it! Maybe I paid shipping (if that), cool as can be tho. I got a free T out of it and they got a life long endorsement.

Definitely will be looking at the rear long arm kit when I get to that stage.
GL
 
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Htf did this turn in to a jack stand debate? For the safety of the internet users... it is definitely a dangerous job to remove the trans crossmemeber where your (long) control arms mount- with out taking precautions for your safety. Please be smart folks. Carry on
 
I have the BDS long arm kit. For performance it is awesome, but when you have to do work on the Tcase or tranny, having to drop the whole front suspension is a pain in the ass. I had to do it both for my 241 tcase swap as well as when I put in my Stroker engine over Christmas of 2020. It added a ton of time to the projects and I was cursing the design. There are a number of other true 4 link setups out there now, Stinkyfab,
Ironman4x4fab etc that are a little more expensive but worth noting having to deal with the hassle in the future. If you understand the maintenance limitations and are cool with them, then the BDS kit is a great setup
 
I think Clayton is the ones that have frame side upper link bolt mounted vertical if so id steer clear of that kit.

Sfr guys are top knotch helped me when I was building my 3 link even though I haven't spent much money there. I very much like how they're suspension is put together so I pretty much copied it.

I do also like the iron rock kits the rock link or whatever. Enough that ill soon be doing a wj build with theyre full kit. Clayton was not in the running on this build. Wj will be rolling into my garage beginning of next week when kit arrives. Will be my first hands on of a iron rock kit. Hopefully I didn't steer in the wrong direction on this jeep

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I think Clayton is the ones that have frame side upper link bolt mounted vertical if so id steer clear of that kit.

Sfr guys are top knotch helped me when I was building my 3 link even though I haven't spent much money there. I very much like how they're suspension is put together so I pretty much copied it.

I do also like the iron rock kits the rock link or whatever. Enough that ill soon be doing a wj build with theyre full kit. Clayton was not in the running on this build. Wj will be rolling into my garage beginning of next week when kit arrives. Will be my first hands on of a iron rock kit. Hopefully I didn't steer in the wrong direction on this jeep

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That is false. The vertical bolt is a "rockkrawler" kit. Clayton's is superior imo

Click the link I posted and see the design for yourself
 
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