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Axle wrap solution(pic)

the crossmember mounts to the frame which it sleeved with 1/4 wall squaretube and 4 1/2inch grade 8 bolts down each side. just for added protection i will tie the crossmember into the fram at the back of the skid. The radius arms are 1.5in dom .25 wall sleved with 1.75in dom .120 wall which makes them just over 3/8 on an inch thich those bends bent the pins in my model4 bender i dont think i will have a problem there. the picture ,ake the bends look larger than they are as well. thanks for your input
 
I want to know what the giant hole in the diff covers all about?
 
the tube is welded to the cast use the globular mig very similar to sprayarc mig lots of voltage, lots of wire. with about 3/8 penetration. it will hold. i posted up another pic at that link with the fram mount for the radius arms. it was before i gussetted them. the giant hole in the diff cover is im waiting on my gears

oh and for brett there are 13 and 3/4 inches of tube over the ford arms.
...sorry about the hijack
 
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The original 2-seat AMC AMX back in 1968/69/70 came from the factory with torque links to prevent axle wrap. They were mounted in just about the same geometry as your friend's ... but they were solid bars, not shock absorbers. I think the shock absorbers are a perfect example of someone with too much time on their hands designing in needless complexity that only results in reducing the effectiveness of the solution.

As already pointed out, this setup will not eliminate axle wrap, it can only make it happen slower.
 
Hey that's a really cool idea I think I will install one next time a take my rig to the drag strip? The only time that thing might even work is if you drop the clutch from a dead stop in like 3rd gear. Do the same idea but solid bar in the same configuration my buddy has it like that on his YJ with 44s and it works great.
 
BrettM said:
please tell me you're joking...
Click to expand...
I think it a new attempt to avoid dealing with the bulkhead fitting when installing ARB's!You just notch the cover and then fill it with silicone later!
 
barillms said:
That shock will not stop axle wrap at all. Your buddy would be better off if he bolted a steel tube with heim joints on each end into the spot where the shock is.
Click to expand...

You must not have read the rest of this thread. Those are called kicker shocks and they do work...to a point. I know, I ran a set for a couple of years. They help axle wrap, but don't eliminate it, so it depends on how bad a case of wrap you have. If it's not too bad kicker shocks can be effective. They allow for full articulation, unlike putting in the bars that you mentioned.
 
Fergie said:
This is what a buddy of mine is running on his Toyota.

What do you think of it for use on an XJ....just curious.

Kicker_shock.jpg


Fergie
Click to expand...
Ok, I've read throught this hole thing, and now I am more confused than ever. My understanding of axle wrap was always that the axle housing try's to spin around the axle shaft. In any forward gear this would attempt to take the bottom of the axle housing toward the front of the vehicle and the top of the axle housing toward the rear of the vehicle. Now I was also under the impression that shocks tendancy was to extend. Every time I unhock the shocks from my Jeep they extend all the way out and I have to compress them to put them back in. There may be some type of shock that tries to compress and I don't know, I don't know everything, though don't tell the misses that, she don't know. Ok, so if everything I said was true, then how would your buddy's set up on his Toyota help any? I mean looking at the picture the drive shaft pinion is visiable on the same side as the shock. So if the shock is pushing on the long leverage bar on the top of the axle, wouldn't that just help axle wrap? Maybe if it seems like it is working now that is just because he put F150 springs in.
 
cruzmyxj said:
Ok, I've read throught this hole thing, and now I am more confused than ever. My understanding of axle wrap was always that the axle housing try's to spin around the axle shaft. In any forward gear this would attempt to take the bottom of the axle housing toward the front of the vehicle and the top of the axle housing toward the rear of the vehicle. Now I was also under the impression that shocks tendancy was to extend. Every time I unhock the shocks from my Jeep they extend all the way out and I have to compress them to put them back in. There may be some type of shock that tries to compress and I don't know, I don't know everything, though don't tell the misses that, she don't know. Ok, so if everything I said was true, then how would your buddy's set up on his Toyota help any? I mean looking at the picture the drive shaft pinion is visiable on the same side as the shock. So if the shock is pushing on the long leverage bar on the top of the axle, wouldn't that just help axle wrap? Maybe if it seems like it is working now that is just because he put F150 springs in.
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Obviously you hve not thought too hard on the subject, ever heard of a steering stabalizer? or even shocks like rancho 3000 are doetech 3000's are all neutral biased, meaing they hve the same resistance pulling or pushing.

on a llifted rig with no swaypars I always run neutral shocks so Im not fighting the shocks trying to push the rig over on every corner
 
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xjnation said:
on a llifted rig with no swaypars I always run neutral shocks so Im not fighting the shocks trying to push the rig over on every corner
Click to expand...


Oh my gawd, that is a technical breakthrough.

Now I feel stupid spending $200 a shock on 7100 Bilsteins. Those fawk-tards valved them 275 compression/ 78 rebound.

Obviously, you know something they don't.

CRASH
 
cruzmyxj said:
Now I was also under the impression that shocks tendancy was to extend. Every time I unhock the shocks from my Jeep they extend all the way out and I have to compress them to put them back in. There may be some type of shock that tries to compress and I don't know, I don't know everything, though don't tell the misses that, she don't know. Ok, so if everything I said was true, then how would your buddy's set up on his Toyota help any? I mean looking at the picture the drive shaft pinion is visiable on the same side as the shock. So if the shock is pushing on the long leverage bar on the top of the axle, wouldn't that just help axle wrap?
Click to expand...

Shocks that push themselves out are gas pressurized, and not what would be used for kicker shocks. A kicker shock has to be a non-gas charged 50/50 biased shock, like what would be used for a steering stabilizer. Most off the shelf shocks are a 70/30 bias, and you're right, they wouldn't work.
 
CRASH said:
Oh my gawd, that is a technical breakthrough.

Now I feel stupid spending $200 a shock on 7100 Bilsteins. Those fawk-tards valved them 275 compression/ 78 rebound.

Obviously, you know something they don't.


It was a general statement that I thought could be understood figured getting into too much detail would confuse the buggers... and yes you did spend too much. they shoud have cost you around 125.00 to 140.00 each max.

better price on 7100's

so ya dont get ripped off again :wave:
Click to expand...
 
xjnation said:
CRASH said:
Oh my gawd, that is a technical breakthrough.

Now I feel stupid spending $200 a shock on 7100 Bilsteins. Those fawk-tards valved them 275 compression/ 78 rebound.

Obviously, you know something they don't.


It was a general statement that I thought could be understood figured getting into too much detail would confuse the buggers... and yes you did spend too much. they shoud have cost you around 125.00 to 140.00 each max.

better price on 7100's

so ya dont get ripped off again :wave:
Click to expand...

Uhhh, why buy a Bilstein without a remote reservoir? The price on those is *slightly* higher.
Click to expand...
 
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