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Axle wrap solution(pic)

Kicker shocks are so 80's! they went out with 12" lifts. :)

They do work if valved correctly, but they only take the harshness out of the axel wrap, they in no way prevent it.
 
fdsa487 said:
WTF is axel WRAP!!!!! :)

It's a protective cover for shipping axles without damaging the paint, of course. Like heavy duty bubble wrap, which in case you haven't heard, is the next big thing in body armor.
 
Lawn Cher' said:
It's a protective cover for shipping axles without damaging the paint, of course. Like heavy duty bubble wrap, which in case you haven't heard, is the next big thing in body armor.


ohhhhhh.. I thought it was Axle Rose' new album...

that first design (w/ shock) was used on S-10 Extremes for a few years, the second design (w/ solid arm) was used on camaro SS's.... I would go with the stiff arm rather than the shock... it will stop the movement in that plane..
 
Since we have so many experts here with such good experience, I may as well add my $.02 in. :)

Like someone just said, using shocks to control axle wrap is called kicker shocks, and Rancho sells a kit for the XJ. I ran them for a couple of years, and they eliminated most of the axle wrap without affecting articulation or wheel travel. I did have to space them out from the mount on the front of the rear spring hanger because of the tall lift and good droop.

However, they would not totally eliminate axle wrap on the big ledges, and I really noticed it on my first trip to Moab trying to climb Dump Bump. Off came the kicker shocks and I made one of the very popular single Y arm traction bars, which works very well. The next year Dump Bump was a cake walk. :)

Here's the one that went on the D44 I was running at that time:
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The single straight traction bar (non Y) type are like kicker shocks, they can mostly eliminate wrap, but they can't stop it. The front of the spring can still deform into an S shape under a lot of power and the housing will just rotate around the single traction bar joint at the housing. The style with two attachment points on the housing, one above the other (Y type), and a single attachemnt point to a crossmember, won't allow the housing to twist, so no spring wrap. They will provide some anti-squat depending on the mounting positions, so are best placed on the passenger side to counteract normal engine torque to that side. Of course, mine is on the drivers side......
 
Lawn Cher' said:
It's a protective cover for shipping axles without damaging the paint, of course. Like heavy duty bubble wrap, which in case you haven't heard, is the next big thing in body armor.

LOL... Heavy duty bubble wrap... I dont think so...
What is axel wrap.
 
fdsa487 said:
LOL... Heavy duty bubble wrap... I dont think so...
What is axel wrap.

Axle wrap is when the torque coming through the driveshaft rotates the axle housing, pushing the pinion up and warping the leaf spring into an S shape, which the spring eventually resists pushing the pinion back down, which the torque then pushes back up and the spring then resists pushing it back down, and so on and on. It can make the rear tires hop, it doesn't allow good power to get to the ground, it prematurely wears out the springs, and if the pinion rotates up high enough it can break the pinion yoke (where's Sean Rose?).
 
fdsa487 said:
LOL... Heavy duty bubble wrap... I dont think so...
What is axel wrap.

I see I can't put anything past you. Axle wrap occurs when the skinny pedal is used judiciously and the tires have copious traction... the reaction forces between the axle housing and the axle shaft cause the housing to rotate, deforming the leaf springs into a ~ shape. Picture the wheels standing still and the axle housing rotating about them... the springs are relatively compliant, so they get wrapped.

Edit: Ah, Goatman beat me by a nose.
 
Lawn Cher' said:
I see I can't put anything past you. Axle wrap occurs when the skinny pedal is used judiciously and the tires have copious traction... the reaction forces between the axle housing and the axle shaft cause the housing to rotate, deforming the leaf springs into a ~ shape. Picture the wheels standing still and the axle housing rotating about them... the springs are relatively compliant, so they get wrapped.

Edit: Ah, Goatman beat me by a nose.

Good to know. Thanks !:us:
 
I had a lot of problems with axle wrap with the stroker. I got a pair of BOR leafs with the military wrap and have had no problems in two years.
 
IMGP5352_500.jpg


Is it just me or does it look like someone needs to tighten the U-bolts. Heck, no wonder he has axle wrap.:laugh3:
 
Karl said:
not sure how to post pics, but you can see my antiwrap bar at this link to a site where i have posted. i dont like the way the other bracket shown is only welded to part of the tube. this bracket has a lot of stress placed on it and i have seen them wrap off. i compromised some ground clearence, but i think it will be worth it.

http://cannland.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=989&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30
your traction bar mount (frame end) scares me almost as much as your radius arms. glad you live on the other side of the country.
 
BrettM said:
your traction bar mount (frame end) scares me almost as much as your radius arms. glad you live on the other side of the country.
X100
 
Karl said:
by having your ladder bar shackle mount a foot behind the crossmember with not bracing to the frame at the back, you have created a lever that is trying (with a great deal of force) to raise the end of your t-case skid thereby twisting your crossmember right off the frame. Perhaps you have the crossmember mounted with more than just the stock bolts, but either way, and especially with the stock crossmember mounting, I see great potential to rip your crossmember off, leaving your tranny and t-case hanging by the motor mounts.

836581_14_full.jpg



the radius arms, well I would first like to know how much you sleeved the original cast with the tube, but my greater concern is the huge bends in the tube which see large bending loads. what size/wall tubing is that?
836581_20_full.jpg
 
Karl waht hold the round tube to teh cast metal of the radius arms? What is at the crossmember end? What kinda tube is the radius arm bent out of? ever hear of gusseting?
 
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