AW4 Solenoid Replacement write-up (no 56k)

[bigalpha]

Never know until you test the wiring and the solenoid you pulled out. Let us know the results. Until then, don't fret too much.

 

[Ice RHD]

The OP said he could not find a diagram to test the 97-up circuit, does any one have one since then.

I have codes 753, 743 which are for the shift solenoid electrical circuits iirc.

 

[djlarroc]

Went and bought the meter but could not test the solenoids because I was busy all night trying to fix the idle problem, and installed some shocks.

Took for a drive again, and manually shifted into third. Came to a red light, heard a "thunk" and idle went to about 1500 rpm, and I could hear that grinding noise again. Put it in 1-2, and idle came back down and grinding noise went away.

Sorry I could not get a recording. I'm going to check the soleniods at work and post what I find. Also, I tried to disconnect harness from tranny. Blue clip on driver's side of tranny. Could not for the life of me, pull that sucker off. Didn't want to break it, so left it.

 

[bigalpha]

Why did you try to connect the wiring at the transmission? It's much easier - plus, it's where you test from - to disconnect the wiring at the TCM inside the cabin.

 

[kastein]

You have to stand on your head (or sit outside the vehicle and have long arms) to get at the TCU harness in 97-up XJs, it's kinda a pain. I'd pop the wiring harness connector by the dipstick tube open, on a 98 and later it is a black 7 position connector.

It is really starting to sound like a mechanical problem for sure though not sure what, but the grinding sound is not promising, could be a planetary set being chewed up or some really bad clutch slippage.

 

[bigalpha]

I didn't realize. I figured you just had to pull the lower panel off the dash to get to it.

 

[djlarroc]

You have to stand on your head (or sit outside the vehicle and have long arms) to get at the TCU harness in 97-up XJs, it's kinda a pain. I'd pop the wiring harness connector by the dipstick tube open, on a 98 and later it is a black 7 position connector.

It is really starting to sound like a mechanical problem for sure though not sure what, but the grinding sound is not promising, could be a planetary set being chewed up or some really bad clutch slippage.

I could not find a harness near dipstick tube. I'll snap some pics tonight.

I'll prob pull the driver's seat out and try to get to the tcm tonight too. I really don't mind having to replace the tranny as that is what I thought when I bought it. Just want to know wth is wrong with it. If I replaced tranny, and it's a tcm or something else, that would suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck!!! :explosion

What do you guys think the reason is, for it dropping back into 4th, when I came to a stop?

 

[bigalpha]

This is what my TCM plug in the firewall looks like. Basically, I just found the colors of wires coming out of the TCM and found it against the firewall. YMMV.

 

[djlarroc]

Thanks!

 

[djlarroc]

So I may be dumb as shit, but I can't get any readings off the solenoid here at work. Never used a DMM before, so not exactly sure if I'm diong this right.

I have it switched to 20M on the OHM reader. Have the negative to the bracket, and positive probing around including inserting into the part of the solenoid that plugs into tranny. No readings. Goes through a bunch of numbers when I move it around but always ends up at 0.00. :dunno:

 

[kastein]

20M is 20 megohms... 20 million ohm scale. That's exactly what I'd expect to see.

Try the 200 ohm range (will be at the opposite end of the resistance scale list on the dial) or the 2k / 2000 ohm ranges if the meter doesn't have a 200 ohm scale.

 

[djlarroc]

:doh:

That makes sense. Thanks.

Still not getting a good reading though. Replaced solenoid keeps bouncing through numbers. 10.8, 11.5, 13.7, then will starting going through numbers again. Old solenoids I have both consistently read 0.5, and 1.2 withnin 5 seconds. 200 OHM scale.

I must not be doing something right.

 

[kastein]

Any chance you can grow a third arm (or find a helper) and get a pic of how you have the meter set + where the probes are + the reading?

0.5 to 1.2 is badly shorted and would explain things nicely, unless you're measuring in the wrong spot or have the meter set for 200k range.

 

[djlarroc]

No helper unfortunately, but I'll do my best..

This is the meter I have

I have the lever switched to 200 (right above COM). Black probe plugged into COM, red into BAT (on right).

Have the black probe on bracket, and red poking into nipple end

 

[bigalpha]

I wish I could remember for sure how I tested mine. Try doing body+nipple. I don't recall having to stick the probe inside the nipple, though.

 

[djlarroc]

Ok check this out. I've probed all over it.

I can only get a reading when I put neg on body/bracket, red into nipple. 0.5, 1.2 consistently on solenoids I got for free, nothing on replaced solenoid (bracket is welded on old solenoids, loose on replaced solenoid).

This time, I put neg on bracket, red onto terminal (inside plastic clip). Free solenoids - 13.5, 13.7 consistent. Replaced solenoid 12.7 consistent. All w/in 5 seconds.

 

[bigalpha]

Duh. The bracket is the ground and the wiring is the other end of the circuit. *slaps self on forehead*.

I believe the range should be 11-14ohms so they check out alright. Now you should do the same test on the wiring. Black lead on ground and red lead on the wiring. That will tell you if the wiring is at fault.

 

[djlarroc]

So that was the right test then? W/the red on the terminal?

If so, then the replaced solenoid is w/in spec as well - 12.7. But it was throwing a code to replace solenoid b. :confused1

 

[bigalpha]

Could be the wiring.

 

[kastein]

Yeah,the computer only knows what it sees through the wiring harness. If the harness is bad or intermittent it will see it as a solenoid fault.