to update, I've found I have just about the perfect 1990 frame, only rust is in the floor pan above the muffler, which I even found on a 98, so i'm keeping the 90 frame.
The galvanizing is going to run roughly 42 cent per pound of steel. so if the stripped frame weighs 1000lbs, 420$. this is the full processed price, cleaning and the works. They said they like a 25% of cross section vent hole at opposite corners and the zinc can get in and out fine for the hot dip, which would be no problem for the frame. for the roll cage I'll proably just weld it up and not worry about it, the inside of it shouldn't be getting rusty anyways and the outside will be sealed, plus its inside so I don't see it having problems.
just a heads up, assure them that your not some concourse resto whackjob, and that your not going to freak out if your frame is off by a 1/16th, and they relax and start talking to you. they were super chill once they realized that I just wanted to stop rust and I didn't care about much else.
the downside is that as I knew, it would need to be stripped of paint (one thing they can't clean off) inside and out. the best price I can find on acid dipping is 1400, which is more than I paid for the whole jeep. so...
I'm going to try electrolysis. kind of whacky, I've used it before on tools, never anything that big, but I figure I don't have much to loose and the principal is the same. basically dunk the part in a solution of water and baking soda or washing soda, hook up a negative DC voltage source to your part, and the positive to something steel that you don't care about. The rust basically transfers to the positive part which is sacrificial like rebar or any ferrous junk item (not stainles steel, casuses a toxic byproduct), and cleans up the negative part. some hydrogen gets produced, which disperses pretty fast if you outside, and you have to make sure the voltage source is up to the task, but thats about it. It also strips paint, it will even take "japaning" off, which is pretty tough stuff (think old school por15). The body caulk may take a bit, but I think that should come off too given some additional scraping.
so far, my grand plan is to build a temporary "tank" lined with a 12x20 sheet of construction plastic, I figure that will get it stripped up to the window sills, then I may try flipping it over but I'll probably just chemical strip the top. once its out, I'm going to spray some rust preventative wax (rumor has it waxy deck sprays work good for a while) weld up the frame stiffners, do the rockers and probably add some bracing and cross members to the frame, weld in the cage, possibly back in the electolysis "tank" one more time, then off to get galvanzied. After that, no rush, it isn't like its going to rust ever again.
I'm actually kind of excited about it. and its actually way cheaper than even getting the floor lineXed (obscene what those guys want for that stuff) PLUS galvanizing works better. this is actually making me wonder about just clear coating it and driving it around galvanized, although its the wife project, and she really likes grabber green which is a bit more reasonable.