3 Link Build - Using Prefabbed Brackets?

[Goatman]

its that simple?

Yes, it is. Build the suspension with the car sitting at full bump and you'll know that everything clears. Links, mounts, shock mounts, steering, etc.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

looks like ill have to get some bigger tires sooner than i thought.


the question still stands, build the uper link off of the truss, or passenger side?

 

[Kaczman]

It's a good idea to check for clearance issues with each side stuffed individually as well. The arc the axle travels in can cause some issues if you don't plan ahead.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

It's a good idea to check for clearance issues with each side stuffed individually as well. The arc the axle travels in can cause some issues if you don't plan ahead.

i understand the concept, check the full range of travel.

 

[chasdb]

the question still stands, build the uper link off of the truss, or passenger side?

Passenger side was easier for me. You can move it farther out and tie it into the track bar mount too. That will give you more room for the exhaust crossover tube too. I'll try and post up some pix tomorrow.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

So, separation isn't super critical?

 

[rockclimber]

my very humble .02

don't go less than 7" of vertical seperation at the axle, you can go down to about 4" of vertical sep at the frame without issue.

I would choose the polyperformance brackets over the clayton X-member.

if you are stuck on rod ends plan on wheeling this thing, go with 1.25" rod ends on the LCAs and 7/8" on the uppers.

after trading posts with Dan @ ruffstuff and speaking to a, shall we say 'harsh' suspension expert, personally I would do 2.5" JJs all the way around.

smaller joints can be used on the upper, but they will wear faster than larger ones.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

ill have to pick dans brain.

thanks for the info, ill look into it. is there any reason he said to run JJs?

 

[rockclimber]

ill have to pick dans brain.

thanks for the info, ill look into it. is there any reason he said to run JJs?

he has said that for a street driven rig, Rod ends will transmit more vibration and potentially wear faster. I don't see the wearing part as being an issue, lube them with triflow and they will last, but having no vibration dampening would be lame.

the only reason I would run 2.5" JJs over 1.25" rod ends is for the vibration dampening.

 

[Goatman]

looks like ill have to get some bigger tires sooner than i thought.


the question still stands, build the uper link off of the truss, or passenger side?

It doesn't matter, put it where it fits.......as long as the upper arm is close to flat. It does make a difference, to be technically correct, but the difference is so slight and there are so few who can even discuss it intelligently that for what we do it doesn't matter. If the upper arm is on the pass side and there is too much angle in the arm, and a resulting too little anti-dive, then it's possible to get what I'll call torque lift on the driver side when the pass tire is climbing something steep.....lot's of resistance. It can actually lift the drivers tire off the ground as the pass tire climbs something close to vertical. If the arm is close to flat it won't do that.

I built my yellow XJ (that Cal now owns) with a front 3 link, upper arm on the pass side, and it works very well. I built my XJ based rock buggy with a 3 link with the arm on the drivers side, and it works very well.

 

[Goatman]

Yeah, use rod ends for a trail rig and JJ's for a street rig.........if you're such a pussy that a little vibration transmitted through a rod end bugs you.


I've rebuilt JJ's enough, I have no use for them. Give me a 1.25" rod end and forget about it. JMHO

 

[rockclimber]

Yeah, use rod ends for a trail rig and JJ's for a street rig.........if you're such a pussy that a little vibration transmitted through a rod end bugs you.


I've rebuilt JJ's enough, I have no use for them. Give me a 1.25" rod end and forget about it. JMHO

just because you can't figure out how to properly set up johnny joints does not mean that they wear faster :blaine:

but seriously, what are you doing to 2.5" JJs that is killing them so quickly?

 

[Goatman]

Well, I was using them. But not any more.

It's personal preference. I've rebuilt my JJ's enough times that I just don't want to dick with them anymore. We used JJ's on the Genright KOH car at first, and I told the guys that I wouldn't recommend using them at all. They came apart a couple times shock tuning and pre-running before the first race, and they were dumped. I just prefer not to dick with them. If you want to bring Blaine into it, I built my buggy and at first used some front arms (still on it) that came from Garry Hall's TJ (that Blaine built) that had 10 year old 1.25" rod ends and I pounded the crap out of those things (two KOH's). I finally replaced two of the four and two are still on the buggy. I just figure if you have the choice, why run anything else?

Now, the design of JJ's has come a long way, and the newer designs are better than the originals that came from Currie (will never run or recommend them) or the 2nd generation that came from RE (that don't last). The newer designs mostly don't use washers and snap rings, and they offer better materials. If you're going to get JJ's, because you're afraid of a little vibration and harshness, then get the best race material that is offered.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

So...

Build it at full bump, and you should avoid most inferences.

Build the upper as flat as possible... At ride height I assume?

7" or more separation at the axle, can go as little as 4" of separation at the frame.

Track bar as close to equal length as the drag link as possible.

Any oter tips to make this project any more over simplified?

 

[rockclimber]

So...

Build it at full bump, and you should avoid most inferences.

Build the upper as flat as possible... At ride height I assume?

7" or more separation at the axle, can go as little as 4" of separation at the frame.

Track bar as close to equal length as the drag link as possible.

Any oter tips to make this project any more over simplified?

get your panhard (trackbar) as close to level as possible at the center of travel

 

[Goatman]

........as long as the track bar matches the angle of the drag link.

On a rock crawl rig it's good to have a high roll center, so the roll center is closer to the center of gravity. When using a panhard bar, the panhard bar height is the roll center height, so make the panhard bar as high as possible. This means raising the panhard bar mount on the axle rather than lowering it on the frame, as much as possible. Of course, to do this you have to build it at full bump so you know the panhard bar doesn't interfere with the oil pan or UCA mounts. On an XJ, it's really better to dump the stock (or most aftermarket) frame side mounts and build your own so it's closer to the frame.

You're asking.......

 

[rockclimber]

........as long as the track bar matches the angle of the drag link.

Damn! forgot that part.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

Damn! forgot that part.

dont feel bad, i forgot it as well.


now... with almost 3 pages of talk, where are the pics?

 

[rockclimber]

dont feel bad, i forgot it as well.


now... with almost 3 pages of talk, where are the pics?

you tell me... you're the one that's supposed to be building this thing. :laugh:

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

you tell me... you're the one that's supposed to be building this thing. :laugh:

touche.

exams are in less than 2 weeks.
i start working for ford in about 3.
paying off the credit card.
picking up a rear to match.
then buying my parts/brackets when all these companies start their black friday sales.