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2000 Cherokee Sport Death Wobble Help

OK, wrapping up what I've seen throughout this thread:
You've done:

-upper control arm bushings. Twice (Why?)
-track bar bushings
-steering stabilizer (what brand? In fact that goes for all of these parts....)
-Driver side balljoints (Why on earth would you not do both sides?)
-Track bar (again!!?)
-Wheel bearing assembly (brand?)
-tires balanced -spin or static?
-track bar bushings and linkage (yet again- why would you do this three times?)
-larger bolt for the trackbar bracket - good move


You need to replace:
-ALL control arm bushings. Upper and lower. Go with new arms if you like.
-The passenger side balljoints as well.
-Consider doing the axle ujoints. Also the driveshaft ujoints.
-Tie rod ends- you didn't mention a thing about them- they are literally the first suspect.
-examine the steering gearbox- ensure it is solidly mounted to the uniframe and not moving (have someone wiggle the steering with the key in the run position)
-Check the trackbar bracket for looseness
-what are the alignnment specs as it sits presently? They ought to be able to provide if they aligned it.

Is the vehicle at all modified? Specifically lifted?


You are requesting a refund from the shop for labor. Why? They did what you told them to.


Shops says the leaf springs needs replaced. They are at the back of the truck. This is a front-of-truck problem.

70K on the shocks, could be time for new. What kind are they, and are they providing positive control of the suspension (no dead spots)?

You are pondering sticking brakes being the problem. Well, are your brakes sticking?

Adding new parts does not cause death wobble. You just haven't found all the problems yet.

You "Did notice the sway bar moving in the mount (hole wallered out)". I think you mean trackbar. It's really important to use the proper terms. This is a BIG part of your problem- that needs to be fixed ASAP. Weld a hardened washer over the hole.

*Do not* go buying an OTK conversion to fix this. That's not your problem. This would be an exercise in stupidity.
 
Additional thoughts:

Get another licensed driver to assist. While they sit in the vehicle with the key in Run, motor off, vehicle on the ground on concrete or driveway (high traction surface, so stuff will move if it is loose):
have them steer between 10 and 2 oclock. Lay in front of the vehicle and watch everything that moves:
-tie rod ends
-steering gearbox, to include the relation to the framerail (yes, I know. Uniframe, WTHE)
-steering damper (won't cause DW but if it's not doing its job that's working against you)
-trackbar- at axle and frame end
-trackbar bracket- is it moving in relation to the frame?
-control arms- are the bolts centered in the bore of the bushings? inspect the bushings- are they rotten?

In short, literally anything that moves.

Step 2- move out from in front of the vehicle. Lay down beside it so you can see the control arms, both ends. You may have to repeat this test a few times to inspect everything.
Have the other driver crank the vehicle. Put it in 4LO. Now power brake- we are not looking to lay rubber, but to torque the axle against the bushings.
Watch each end of each and every control arm bushing. Any movement means that bushing is shot. Replace it. I personally use Poly if it's a DD vehicle, but that's just me. Some disagree.

Report back observations.

Another thing to try- and humor me here. Remove the front shaft (between front axle and transfer case). Test drive. Did the problem go away? Look at the CV joint and all ujoints. Hell, you have it out, go ahead and replace them.

I had a similar issue with my wife's ZJ last year. I replaced everything, since it was due a maint reset anyway:
-control arms (and thus, bushings)
-wheel hub bearings
-axle shaft ujoints
-upper axle housing bushings (can easily be called the "upper control arm bushings" but they aren't actually in the arms)
-balljoints
-all TREs from the pitman to the knuckles
-trackbar bushing
-steering stabilizer (with the OME unit- that's Old Man Emu, not OEM).

Problem solved. Problem (hopefully) staying solved for quite a while.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all of the suggestions..... If it comes back from the current shop with the wobble, I'll dig into it again.

However, the owner is telling me he won't return it with the problem. He, like burntkat suggested, said it may be time for a maint reset......
 
burntkat said:
Who on earth did your brakes? Pads shouldn't be anywhere near the knuckle....
Click to expand...

The pads ride on the knuckle. There's no wear clip. They groove out the knuckle. Common problem. Weld, grind, done.

Also, since I'm assuming this Jeep is basically stock, and over the knuckle conversion is not what you need. More for lifted rigs.
 
burntkat said:
This makes no sense.. how are the bolts, pressure fittings ?
Click to expand...

maybe pressure fitting is wrong term.
According to the fsm. it talks about the fittings on the control arms.

If you look at control arms before you install them. the metal is spaced more than it needs to be.
You MUST. Tighten these all the way until the tabs flex in. otherwise it will create wobble.
I tightened to fsm torque specs.
Drove around.
wobbled like crazy.
It needed 30 more lb's then it fully gripped.
now no wobbles.
** this could also be that my new control arms are from china* bushings are moog. but metal is china brand

idk if that makes sense. and I am mainly talking about the front upper front bolts the ones on the axle top


And the comment about the over the knuckle conversion.. it is $40 more expensive than buying all the tie rods.
why not.. if your in there anyway.....
 
Last edited:
blu3fan said:
maybe pressure fitting is wrong term.
According to the fsm. it talks about the fittings on the control arms.
....
And the comment about the over the knuckle conversion.. it is $40 more expensive than buying all the tie rods.
why not.. if your in there anyway.....
Click to expand...


re: control arm "fittings" on upper arm at axle- a better way to put it is "tabs". The tabs that bolt to the upper axle bushings should fit snug against the bushing body, yes I agree, and a good point. I understand now.

Regards the OTK conversion- if it's a stock Jeep there is no sense changing the configuration. This is not how you troubleshoot and solve a problem. That's just introducing more variables.

For clarification- I have a 90 XJ that ran 6" lift and stock steering linkage as a DD for years. While I agree it's a weak point, and most assuredly should be upgraded for a wheeling rig- perhaps a good idea even for a DD since it is steering after all- it's NOT a good idea to go changing it right now. That's a good way to, as we say in my industry, "lose the bubble"... IE: "I'm trying to fix this crap, but I've changed so much while doing so I am just clueless. I've lost sight of the goal".

Again, once the DW is gone, a steering upgrade probably would be a VERY good idea. I am getting to the point of looking into it for my wife's 94 ZJ and my son's 97 XJ, and will be using the 90XJ as a test mule so I can chase problems (relocation of ancillary bits, etc) and then just knock it out in a few hours on the 94 and 97. (I will be fabricating my own, once I build a Gottrikes Bender).
 
Second shop says everything is tight and aligned. Still has wobble.

Anyone here know a shop in Indianapolis that knows how to cure this problem?

I'm giving up.
 
TDoggs said:
Second shop says everything is tight and aligned. Still has wobble.

Anyone here know a shop in Indianapolis that knows how to cure this problem?

I'm giving up.
Click to expand...

Wow. Reading back through the thread, clearly the first shop touched something that caused this problem. Upper arm control bushings, track bar bushing, and new steering stabilizer. Have you tried swapping the steering stabilizer again? It's isn't really a cause by itself, but a bad one won't damp down the oscillations. Did they give you any printouts on the alignment?
 
They were closed when I picked it up so I didn't get the printout.
 
lawsoncl said:
Wow. Reading back through the thread, clearly the first shop touched something that caused this problem. Upper arm control bushings, track bar bushing, and new steering stabilizer. Have you tried swapping the steering stabilizer again? It's isn't really a cause by itself, but a bad one won't damp down the oscillations. Did they give you any printouts on the alignment?
Click to expand...

Also, I was mistaken. It's the lower control arms they replaced. Not the upper.
 
Would a loosely adjusted steering gearbox cause the wobble?
 
I believe I MAY have found the problem.

I’m trying to figure out how to upload a picture
 
s4457W
 
lawsoncl said:
Looks like some cracking in the bracket-to-body weld? Also looks like there used to be a small weld near the nut.

If it's the hole you're looking at, the hole is slotted to allow adjustment. The bolts you see to the left can be undone and shims placed between the internal piece that slides and the frame bracket to adjust the castor.
Click to expand...

Dang...I thought maybe that was damage caused by the firs shop.
 
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