• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

dana 30 truss

WTH happened to this thread!

It started with a great question, some good responses and then turned into a "all out" D-30 battle!

The D-30 is what it is, It will work for some not for others, there are many factors to plug in to the equation.


seriously!
I have a 30, a lunchbox locker, diff cover, and a HD tierod. I have steel, and I am going to truss it. period.
If you dont agree, then dont post, please. Thank you.
I dont care if you built a 44. I dont care if you blew up your 30 with stock tires and an open carrier.

Can we plz stay on topic?? Is that really too much to ask?
 
Believe it or not, there are more wise people than you out in this world. I encounter them alot when I have, well....lets just say "odd" idea's. I thank them for saving me money, time and mostly frustration.

Just sayin'...
 
Believe it or not, there are more wise people than you out in this world. I encounter them alot when I have, well....lets just say "odd" idea's. I thank them for saving me money, time and mostly frustration.

Just sayin'...


QFT.

You started off the thread asking questions, got a bunch of responses from experienced wheelers, and then said screw you guys I'm doing it my way. When people point out flaws in your design, you tell them to beat it? :wierd:
 
QFT.

You started off the thread asking questions, got a bunch of responses from experienced wheelers, and then said screw you guys I'm doing it my way. When people point out flaws in your design, you tell them to beat it? :wierd:

I call this "don't confuse me with facts, I've made up my mind" and I see it a lot here.
 
I agree.


I've gotten it airborne while wheeling rocks, with my foot on the floor.

I have too, Lower 2 in Tellico with open diffs front and rear was all about momentum.

like 2nd gear, 1500 RPM's past the redline momentum.


but everyone cheered when I made it. I wish the video had been uploaded, but that was long ago so it's probably gone.
 
I have too, Lower 2 in Tellico with open diffs front and rear was all about momentum.

like 2nd gear, 1500 RPM's past the redline momentum.


but everyone cheered when I made it. I wish the video had been uploaded, but that was long ago so it's probably gone.
yeah, people tend to be amused by watching my antics... fortunately I haven't broken anything really serious yet. Just the link mounts on a junk d30 housing (the tow home cost me way, way more than the repairs) and the bolts pulling out of the stock steering box within 500 feet of home... limped it back and parked it.
 
QFT.

You started off the thread asking questions, got a bunch of responses from experienced wheelers, and then said screw you guys I'm doing it my way. When people point out flaws in your design, you tell them to beat it? :wierd:


I am aware of the strengths and weakness of my axle. I already have too much money in it to even consider starting again on a 44 or 60. I only make 11$ an hour, i am not rich lol. Of course if I had the money I would just say F* it and buy some prorock 60's or something. I already have the steel laying around, so why not throw on a truss? Plus I dont want to be part of the crowd. All I want is ideas of how I should do it. I am doing it my way, AFTER considering all of everyones advice. I have my reasons why, and I have already stated them.
Thanks to everyone that has actually been helpful.
 
I'm not saying you should upgrade the axle. I have a D30 and plan on sticking with it as well, since I have a ton of money in it.

I'm talking mainly about the disco housing and bottom truss idea. But whatever man, it is your jeep and in the end, you can mod it however you see fit. Good luck!
 
Well, 1st... i am running 35's with an aussie locker. Around tax time I am going to gear the axle and possibly buy a full case locker. I dont want to have to worry about the housing twisting or deforming under high load and stress. I want to add the truss for strength and also for the looks. Basically its for peace of mind, but that doesnt matter. Its what i want, so thats why im building one.

ps No i dont want a front 44. and plz post more pics =]

and yes, i have broke a housing in half, between the uca mount and the C. It sucked, and i dont want to have to deal with that again.

I agree. I broke both ujoints(260's) on my 30, running an aussie with 3.55's with 35's. I dont plan on 4.88's, maybe 4.56's but i wont have the money for that for a while.
so you haven't even geared it yet... you are still planning to.

seriously!
I have a 30, a lunchbox locker, diff cover, and a HD tierod. I have steel, and I am going to truss it. period.
If you dont agree, then dont post, please. Thank you.
I dont care if you built a 44. I dont care if you blew up your 30 with stock tires and an open carrier.

Can we plz stay on topic?? Is that really too much to ask?
You can sell the lunchbox locker, diff cover, and HD tie rod easily. Very easily.

You have currently a 30 that is stock in every single expensive-to-upgrade way (shafts, gears, trussing), with only expensive bolt-on garage upgrades you can easily dispose of for nearly what you paid for them.

I already have too much money in it to even consider starting again on a 44 or 60.
Thinking this way is known as "throwing good money after bad."

Plus I dont want to be part of the crowd.
You are going to become part of a different crowd... the crowd that has blown up several 30s.

All I want is ideas of how I should do it. I am doing it my way, AFTER considering all of everyones advice. I have my reasons why, and I have already stated them.
Thanks to everyone that has actually been helpful.
You've got your ideas, most of them were "truss it on the top or get a better axle", and you are going to truss it on the bottom for rock crawling? This is known as "don't confuse me with facts, I have made up my mind" as I said before.

And I guess I shoulda specified this before hand. im trussing the axle to keep the center section rigid.
You would be better served by a truss on the front of the housing than a truss on the top or bottom for this. The way the housing deflects is the open front of the center chunk flexes open wider as the pinion pushes the carrier away from it. A truss somehow constructed across the front (magically without making the cover impossible to remove) would help a lot more than one on the top or the bottom. It also wouldn't reduce your ground clearance. I have a couple ideas in mind for how one could be constructed.

pumpkin, knuckles, inner c's, LCA mounts- all compromise ground clearance
my truss wont hang much lower, maybe a 1/2 in at most.
I'm sorry but a truss that hangs 1/2" lower is not a truss. It is a little bit of plating that will do very little except reduce your ground clearance slightly. Remember also that doing this will effectively make your 35s into 34s ground clearance wise... and 33s are only slightly below that, and a 30 with 33s on it will last all day every day, built inexpensively.

I really wonder why I'm even bothering, every bit of this thread so far indicates that you are still going to take your $100 axle that somehow you've spent too much money on already, spend a lot more money gearing it and polishing it, instead of buying a 44 at the junkyard for 100 and replacing all the same parts on it for approximately the same amount. Do as you will, it's your money, this thread makes my head hurt.

EDIT: as far as not wanting to follow the crowd... look into the dana 50 axle. Most people ignore em, they're about the size of a dana 60 with dana 44 equivalent strength gears. Can be found with 4.10 and 4.56 gears stock iirc, some are TTB (don't want this) and some aren't. I wouldn't be surprised if you can get a damn good price on one somewhere or other simply because most people don't buy them.
 
Last edited:
This is after only 2 wheeling trips. (everyting in the Northeast gets rusty after 1 winter). I wasn't even doing hardcore trails. I would highly recommend rethinking the truss under the axle. I didn't have that extra 1/2" hanging down like you said your truss would be, and I was still hitting and sliding over my tubes, and dragging diff.

DSC_0984.jpg



Like kastein said, 1/2" isn't going to do much for rigidity, and I wouldn't call that a truss. If you are going to ask people opinions on matters that they have experienced before, and are just going to ignore it to do your original ideas, please just don't bother asking the question in the first place.
 
HOLY ROCK PLOW!

What are you talking about?!?!?! That's probably the best truss i've ever seen............for a desert racing baja truck. :roll:

What's funny is that it "looks" like ground clearance was given some thought on the passenger side tube with the 1 1/2" cut-out section. I guess to clear the raised hump in the middle of gravel roads?
 
What's funny is that it "looks" like ground clearance was given some thought on the passenger side tube with the 1 1/2" cut-out section. I guess to clear the raised hump in the middle of gravel roads?

:confused:

Truss seems alright, but I don't see why the notch is needed? It would be a lot stronger if it we're 1 straight piece.
 
Back
Top