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Front axle nut tool

R

RCP Phx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Phoenix,Az
As promised a while back(pics).This is what you need for a trail or shop repair! No more broken breaker bars,you might break the axle though! Cost was about $6.
11test.jpg

test12.jpg

80100013.jpg
 
Uhmm,YEAH!! See thread title!
 
On the trail?Most 1/2" impacts wont touch these these things.Whats pictured was built using 3/4" drive.But its real use is w/ sledge hammer.The tool was conceived from my old VW days(much higher torque-300+ft/lbs).
 
Got Snap ON??? seriously I carry my 1/2" 18v electric when I go wheeling just to change tires.. A little bit of antiseeze goes a long ways when doing your axle nut's.
 
Clean-RC said:
Got Snap ON??? seriously I carry my 1/2" 18v electric when I go wheeling just to change tires.. A little bit of antiseeze goes a long ways when doing your axle nut's.
Click to expand...
Anti-seize shouldnt even be used here,unless you trust the cotter key.In my 30+ years of racing lock-tite is the winner.But anyway,most guys have habs that may never come off!
BTW: Do you actually torque the nut to spec when installing,I do!
 
I carry a 18" breaker bar with a full 1/2 deep socket set all the time. sweet tool though. the socket was probably more than 6 bucks
 
Because of the nasty ones(crusty/never been off) that need pre-load plus a fast hard impact(like pitman arms and tre's even when using a puller).Again ,this is a spin off from the old VW days,and if youve ever done a flywheel/axle on one youd know what Im talking about.Ive used this pic before to show whats needed.The socket was like $2 from HF.
Chi7024.jpg
 
Last edited:
RCP Phx said:
Anti-seize shouldnt even be used here,unless you trust the cotter key.In my 30+ years of racing lock-tite is the winner.But anyway,most guys have habs that may never come off!
BTW: Do you actually torque the nut to spec when installing,I do!
Click to expand...

I would never use loctite in this application.. And yes I do torque the axle nut, that is why you should never need a cotter pin.. I recommend antiseeze due to the large number of rigs that have the threads all rusted and what not.. But I guess you have more years racing than I do...
 
what happened to just keepin that random 36mm 1/2" drive socket in the tool box and bringing the 1/2" breaker bar? thats always worked for me...
 
I use a 3/4" drive 36mm socket and a 20" 3/4" drive breaker bar.

I have 12" marked on the breaker bar, and I weigh 180. I stand at the 12 inch mark and bounce up and down very slightly until it stops tightening. :)

I too carry a 24v electric impact on the trail for tires and such. Priceless.
 
Last edited:
im old fashioned, my pops loves his impact wrenches and torque, i love breaker bars and guessing
 
For the trail. A highlift handle and a 1/2 inch breaker bar works well for me. Nice concept though, Not too thrilled about pounding on that nut, may damage the unit bearing.
 
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