Front axle nut tool

[mk153smaw]

I love threads like this. It helps me to make my tool kit smaller. I currently bring a whole shop worth of tools because I always over prepare like a total noob! I need to make trail tools

 

[IntrepidXJ]

hmmmm......my 1/2 impact has always got the axle nuts off. takes a little longer than normal, but they always come off....even running off co2

 

[1996cc]

Don't bother worrying about that nut, just snag some spare unit bearings from the junkyard and keep them already bolted to your spare shafts. Makes swapping shafts quicker also if you blown a u joint.

 

[Archdukeferdinand]

I would never use loctite in this application.. And yes I do torque the axle nut, that is why you should never need a cotter pin.. I recommend antiseeze due to the large number of rigs that have the threads all rusted and what not.. But I guess you have more years racing than I do...

Some people think anti-seize is the devil, others use it everywhere.

I put it on the axle threads as well as my lug studs. Only problems I've ever had were stuck crap before I started using anti-seize.


Its a cool idea for the trail, but I'm focusing on OBA and an impact.

 

[FordGuy]

Anti-seize shouldnt even be used here,unless you trust the cotter key.In my 30+ years of racing lock-tite is the winner.But anyway,most guys have habs that may never come off!
BTW: Do you actually torque the nut to spec when installing,I do!

I am with you, Lock tite the crap out of everything, use a torque wrench and never have to tighten a nut again.

 

[jeepboy381]

I just carry a breaker bar with a 36mm socket, it has worked for me everytime. If the breaker bar dosn't break it loose then I can put the highlift handle on it to assist.

 

[BruceB83]

Uhmm,YEAH!! See thread title!

In his defense, you cannot tell how big it is without anything next to it for a relative reference. At first glance, I thought it looked kind of small too.

 

[XJeremy23]

I remember the first time I tried to break that nut loose I snapped two 1/2" drive breaker bars. Then I went at with a 3/4" drive setup and it broke loose right away. It probebly hadn't been removed for 12+ years at that time. Now I can break it loose with a 1/2" breaker bar but if this tool saves space in the tool box I can see the advantage. But there is other parts that may need replaced/repaired on the trail that may need the 1/2" breaker bar and different sized sockets.

 

[jeepboy381]

In his defense, you cannot tell how big it is without anything next to it for a relative reference. At first glance, I thought it looked kind of small too.

Yeah that's what I was thinking, wasn't expecting such a rude response from him though. I just looked small in the picture and you didn't give any detail on how it worked even though it is kind of obvious. Maybe I just over looked it because of the snot running out my nose, sore throat, fever, and tiredness. But hey I am still at work working hard right.........:cheers:

 

[RyanM]

Same guy who had the ghettofab MM's questions your welding!

 

[tomcat]

I remember the first time I tried to break that nut loose I snapped two 1/2" drive breaker bars. Then I went at with a 3/4" drive setup and it broke loose right away. It probebly hadn't been removed for 12+ years at that time. Now I can break it loose with a 1/2" breaker bar but if this tool saves space in the tool box I can see the advantage. But there is other parts that may need replaced/repaired on the trail that may need the 1/2" breaker bar and different sized sockets.

save space in the toolbox? there will always be room for a breaker bar. That and a prybar

 

[FordGuy]

I would never use loctite in this application.. And yes I do torque the axle nut, that is why you should never need a cotter pin.. I recommend antiseeze due to the large number of rigs that have the threads all rusted and what not.. But I guess you have more years racing than I do...

:dunno: I use anti seize on some stuff but there is a torque issue with anti-seize, I not a engineer but if you read manufactures torque procedures on lot of parts like axles, lug nuts, certain head bolts they clearly say dry torque only, no lubricant. My guess is the extra lube causes excessive torque. ????

 

[Markos]

Thats pretty ghetto!The material is not proper and the welds look questionable.

What the hell are you talking about? The welds look fine. What's wrong with the material? Even it it's mild steel, it's not like he's going to bend 1/2" plate. Not while hitting it on it's side anyway. You can already tell that it's been whacked several times.


I agree that you need another item in the pic for reference, like a can of soda or something. 36mm is a big socket, so this thing must be pretty hefty.

 

[FordGuy]

My two cents are that it looks fine, And based on the diameter of the nut there is no way its going to brake, great idea!!

 

[RyanM]

Thats pretty ghetto!The material is not proper and the welds look questionable.

No doubt :lecture:

 

[Blaine B.]

I just tighten the nut up and let the impact hammer on it for a few minutes....it's not going anywhere.

Same thing with the bolts on the backside.

 

[xcm]

haha, this is why you dont post pics of your ghetto ass motor mounts... this guy must be trolling

 

[Blaine B.]

Anti Seize is a lubricant. Loctite isn't.

And when you use a lubricant on bolts isn't it common to reduce the torque by about half?

 

[waxer]

Anti Seize is a lubricant. Loctite isn't.

Loctite acts as a lubricant as you tighten down the fastener. After it dries and does what it's designed to do, yes, it no longer acts as a lubricant.

And when you use a lubricant on bolts isn't it common to reduce the torque by about half?

If you regularly do that, you are seriously under torquing your fasteners.

I've often read and heard that if there is anything on the threads that change the COF (coefficient of friction) as you are attempting to torque something down, such as oil, that it will give you false torque readings. Something about it didn't sound right to me, so I tested what I heard.

I took a bolt that threaded into a Dana 60 knuckle and torqued it down completely clean and dry to 50ft lbs. I then marked the relationship between the head of the bolt and the knuckle. I loosened it and torqued it down 2 more times and the mark was where it was the first time.

I then doused the hell out of the bolt hole and the bolt threads with PB Blaster and tried it again. When I reached 50ft lbs the marks lined up, just as before.

I saw that it isn't the threads COF that builds up the torque, it's actually the tension being placed on the bolt head, or if using a nut, the tension between the nut and the item being held down.

Give it a go for yourself!!

Pics for this test are pretty much worthless cause they can be faked. So before you call BS, give it a try yourself.

 

[mjdavis31]

nice tool i made some thing like that myself.