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Front axle nut tool

Markos said:
What the hell are you talking about? The welds look fine. What's wrong with the material? Even it it's mild steel, it's not like he's going to bend 1/2" plate. Not while hitting it on it's side anyway. You can already tell that it's been whacked several times.



I agree that you need another item in the pic for reference, like a can of soda or something. 36mm is a big socket, so this thing must be pretty hefty.
Its actually 3/4" plate!
 
Markos said:
What the hell are you talking about? The welds look fine. What's wrong with the material? Even it it's mild steel, it's not like he's going to bend 1/2" plate. Not while hitting it on it's side anyway. You can already tell that it's been whacked several times.

You obviously missed the sarcasm.
 
I haven't used loctite or anti seize on threads, only on mounting surfaces....so I never have under torqued anything. But I heard it was usually a rule of thumb.

Isn't loc-tite advertised as not affecting torque on bolts to which it is applied?
 
Blaine B. said:
Anti Seize is a lubricant. Loctite isn't.

And when you use a lubricant on bolts isn't it common to reduce the torque by about half?

I could never really find anything in writing to that effect, but we use one time use torque to yield head bolts and they will snap with anti-seize, and are fine dry as they are suppose to be used. My guess is that the torque increases substantially.
 
i guess i've never had a problem with my oba and my impact.... then again, i've got a 1000 ft/lb impact. it doesn't even flinch....
 
FordGuy said:
I could never really find anything in writing to that effect, but we use one time use torque to yield head bolts and they will snap with anti-seize, and are fine dry as they are suppose to be used. My guess is that the torque increases substantially.

I've seen wet/dry rating in writing for lots of fasteners with the reduction ranging from 10% to 50%. I've seen the antiseize web sites giving similar numbers. I suppose it depends on the material, thread pitch, etc. I take the approach that the FSM values are for clean perfect threads. Usually when I consider antiseize, the bolt is not in pristine shape. I figure a little anti-seize gets them close to the original friction coefficients and the original torque value is appropriate.
 
Sounds pretty close to me. I usually use clean threads, small amount of lock-tite and use the good old torque wrench. Especially when using the grade 10 aircraft hardware on the race-car
 
I might get blown out of the web for this, but I have heard a lot of mechanics say that they never use a torque wrench on anything out side of the engine; “just get that SOB tight”. This is definitely not my way of doing things, but thought I would share it.


My contribution to the 'most worthless post of the month' contest...
 
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