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How big a breaker bar do I need...

Soak it in PB blaster a few times a day for a couple of days, then use an air impact if you have access to one. If you have to use a breaker bar- I took one off at the junk yard in rusty NY with a 'standard' Craftsman breaker bar. I think it's 18". -Jim C
 
x2, PB and normal breaker bar. Its not that tough. When you reinstall it make sure you use antiseize on the threads.
 
cklaus said:
x2, PB and normal breaker bar. Its not that tough. When you reinstall it make sure you use antiseize on the threads.
Click to expand...

I sencond the never-seez, but a slight modification of procedure will be required.

As I've noted before, when you lubricate threads, it is necessary to reduce the installed torque value.

If using engine oil or chassis grease, reduce torque by one-third.
If using never-seez, reduce torque by one-half.

Book value for the stub shaft nut with "clean, dry" threads is 185 pound-feet. If you use engine oil or chassis grease, reduce that to ~125 pound-feet. If using never-seez, reduce to ~92 pound-feet.

This is important! If you've ever pulled the threads off of a shaft or out of a nut because you lubricated it, you'd know why directly... I've had to fix that for people.
 
cklaus said:
x2, PB and normal breaker bar. Its not that tough. When you reinstall it make sure you use antiseize on the threads.
Click to expand...

the biggest you can find, why work hard when you can use leverage.
I have a 36" breaker bar I use to take those off when I'm not at home. Piece o cake.

If you use never seieze, and I recommend that you do, don't forget to adjust the torque value accordingly when you put it back on, the nut sets the bearing preload, too tight or loose and you'll kill that expensive new hub assembly.
General rule when using never seize is to cut the torque value in half on the torque wrench.
 
I had to jump on a 8' pipe to get mine to break loose, PITA.
I got my "new" set off a 93 with a standard 18" breaker bar easily though.
I now have air tools, but I haven't changed a hub with them yet.
If you're up close to middletown, you can bring your jeep up & do it here.
 
Thanks for the replies, all. I started soaking it in PB last night. I have a 24" breaker bar, so we'll see how that does tonight. FSM calls for 175 ft lbs (5-90 says 185) which is pretty healthy. I tend to use anti-seeze on stuff like this - tell me more about the 1/2 torque rule of thumb. What's the physics behind that? I don't want my wheel fallin' off.

Thanks for the offer jfiscus. The hub is toast. It wouldn't make it that far. LOL. My son is bigger than I am. I'll get him to jump up and down on the breaker bar. Actually I am more concerned with breaking the breaker bar. I don't really want to pipe a Harbour Freight tool.
 
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Update: I figured out why y'all say a COUPLE OF DAYS for the PB to do its work. Justcouldn'twait. Snapped off the head of the breaker bar. I think it had something to do with the 4' pipe I slipped over the end. Went to Sears and got a 3/4" breaker bar. I might soak it another day or two before I try to break that one. It was $50something, plus $20ish for the socket.:scared:
 
opps...so I shouldn't have been torquin' to 85-95 lbs. on my lugnuts??
(was using anti-seize)
(nickle based IIRC..if that matters)
 
When using a lubracant on a bolt it take less torque to obtain the load need to hold whatever it is together because there is less friction than if the bolt was dry. The nut is still being forced to the same position on the bolt but it is easier to get it there. Easy on Easy off.
 
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