The Infamous Oil Filter Adapter

[gba88]

Your in a world of hurt at this point, about the only non-distructive way now would be to pull the engine. You might try a good pipe wrench again but since your likely to do damage to the adapter I would have a replacement on hand. They are getting hard to find new so you probably need to go through this again at the junk yard.

Yeah, I figured as much as far as planning on destroying the adapter. I may call the last local yard and see if they still have any XJs around.

 

[RCP Phx]

Welding a 1/2" nut(3/4" hex) would be your best bet, if you have the space. It would be a one shot deal though as your are sure to destroy the o-rings. No worries with using a welder as the fuel lines are on the drivers side.

 

[gba88]

Welding a 1/2" nut(3/4" hex) would be your best bet, if you have the space. It would be a one shot deal though as your are sure to destroy the o-rings. No worries with using a welder as the fuel lines are on the drivers side.

Yeah, I know where the fuel lines are I just didn't know about welding right on the engine like that and with the presence of oil/flammability. I have no experience welding, but my brother has a welder and is good with it.

I thought of another possible idea...cutting a large slot in the head at the right angle with a dremel... I figured if I took a wide piece of solid steel and fashioned some kind of "L" shape out of it that I could fit it in the slot to break it free. I ordered a used adapter off ebay expecting that one way or another my current adapter may get ruined.

I may not even attempt this again until spring. I'm tired of waiting til 11 or so for it to warm up now that winter is about here.

 

[JonnyCat63]

Welding a 1/2" nut(3/4" hex) would be your best bet, if you have the space. It would be a one shot deal though as your are sure to destroy the o-rings. No worries with using a welder as the fuel lines are on the drivers side.

Agree with RCP. Welding a nut on will probably be your best bet. I wouldn't grind a slot in in, you risk weakening the bolt and could break off only a part of it. If that happens, you'd have to destroy the adapter in order to remove it.

If you need tips on welding on bolts to remove them, check out this guy on YouTube. He's got a lot of great advice!

 

[RCP Phx]

I thought of another possible idea...cutting a large slot in the head at the right angle with a dremel... I figured if I took a wide piece of solid steel and fashioned some kind of "L" shape out of it that I could fit it in the slot to break it free.

I would say that anything that's not hardened would fail. You also do not want to try to remove it with torque alone, but with a impact from a hammer while applying full pressure to "break" it loose. A great way on a good bolt would be to drill a hole in the frame to get a impact wrench and extension to pass thru!

 

[gba88]

I would say that anything that's not hardened would fail. You also do not want to try to remove it with torque alone, but with a impact from a hammer while applying full pressure to "break" it loose. A great way on a good bolt would be to drill a hole in the frame to get a impact wrench and extension to pass thru!

Yeah, it will definitely be an impact hit the next time I try it. That's what happened in the first place, I had a slow torque pull on it and that damn head didn't stand a chance considering how tight that thing is torqued... must be 150-200 ft pounds!

I'll consult my brother on welding a nut on the bolt...I'll show him the vids that JonnyCat63 posted.

I do have a used adapter on the way so if it comes to that...then so be it. This project holds the record for most money spent on tools for the job and extra parts.

 

[Bent]

I should add that it also allows a torque wrench to be used for re-installation.

True. For general information remember that the crow's foot needs to be at 90* to the torque wrench to be accurate. My MJ has a hex head on it instead of the torx used by Chrysler.