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Buggy building on a budget

Goatman

Goatman

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Bakersfield, CA
I'm NOT going to build a buggy!
I'm NOT going to build a buggy!
I'm NOT going to build a buggy!
I'm NOT going to build a buggy!
I'm NOT going to build a buggy!
I'm NOT going to build a buggy!
I'm NOT going to build a buggy!
I'm NOT going to build a buggy!
I'm NOT going to build a buggy!


Well, now that I have that out of the way. :)

I'm thinking about going ahead and building a buggy out of one of the Commanches I have sitting in the back yard. IF I do it, it will have to be on a budget. A problem building on a budget is that I would be dissapointed if it didn't work a lot better than my XJ, which has a Tera60R in back and a shaved HPD44 in the front, both with alloy shafts and CTM's in the front, 5.13's and with 4 to1 t-case gears, and 37's. I also HATE breaking.

So, issues are what can I get away with gearing and axle strength wise, and where to best spend what money I'll have to throw at it. Anyone want to sell a good winch or an Atlas for $300? :)

Also, one choice would be to detune my XJ somewhat, going back to 35's, and use the 37's on the buggy. If I did that, I could move the Tera60 over to the buggy and build a D44 that I already have sitting around for the XJ. However, I like my XJ the way it is now, so it would be nice to leave it alone. Also, if I moved the Tera60 over, then the front would have to be 5 lug, but if I built something junkyard I could leave it all 8 lug making building the front axle easier and cheaper. Have to compare the cost of making the front 5 lug plus building the D44, to leaving the front 8 lug and building another rear axle.

This should make for some good discussion.
 
i say go for it, i was going to build a buggy, but im just going to build my xj, as far as axles..... go to the jy, i kno around here i can get a 14 bolt rear 60 front for $250 matching set, i got the 60 rear for my xj for free
 
JeepFreak21 said:
In on page 1 :wave:

How's the running gear in the MJ?
Billy
Click to expand...

Stock. I don't have the perfect platform, really, which is one of my hesitations because of the extra work. Both are short beds, which is irrelevant since I'll cut the back off. The one I would likely build is a 2wd 4cyl 4sp w/o power steering or A/C, with a blown head gasket and the body and interior are pretty rough. The other one would work well, but it's too nice to cut up. It's a 4.0 auto 2wd and the A/C works, very good interior and straight body. It would make a very nice driver, which it was before the aux fan and idiot guage quit and I got it hot and blew the head gasket towing some jet skis.

Parts I have are a running 4.0L out of my XJ (I put in a stroker), an AW4 and 231 t-case, a rear D44 out of an MJ, and a D30 front end. I was going to use these parts to replace the motor in the nice MJ and make it into a 4x4 for light trails, and use it for a driver. If I build a buggy, I'll just use the XJ for an occasional driver since it already has a nice stereo and the A/C works. I would likely swap the motors to fix the nice MJ and then sell it and use the money for the buggy project. That means I'd have to fix the motor with the blown headgasket for the buggy project, and get the wiring and TCM to put the AW4 in it.

I also have a set of SAW 12" coilovers, which I'd use for the rear, and RE ZJ coils I'd use in the front, plus some SAW shocks I'd likely use in the front.

I found another MJ I can buy for $600, and it's 4wd and runs fine, but it's a 2.8 5 sp, so has a 207 t-case, and it has no A/C. Don't know that I can use it for anything.

More ramblings.........

:)
 
Do you have any pictures, it's much easier to evaluate when having a visual. Oh, and what is your definition of "buggy", all tube ? :)
 
Pull the bed (duh) and chop it down to about 108" WB. Get a pair of junkyard 60's (with 4.10's...won't have to regear unless it sees alot of street use) and drop in the 4.0L/auto you have. Weld up the diffs (or add spools/lockers of choice...but you said CHEAP).

custom build your own link setup front and rear (from what I;ve read you certainly can). Run an NP-203/205 doubler which I would presume you can find the parts in a junkyard and put it together yourself.

THen run anywhere from 37's-40's depending on what you can find for cheap. I bet you could build the whole thing for WELL under $5K since you have many of the parts already.
Only other thing would be a cage...and with your contacts I bet you could still get it all done for under $5K.
 
043500 said:
Pull the bed (duh) and chop it down to about 108" WB. Get a pair of junkyard 60's (with 4.10's...won't have to regear unless it sees alot of street use) and drop in the 4.0L/auto you have. Weld up the diffs (or add spools/lockers of choice...but you said CHEAP).

custom build your own link setup front and rear (from what I;ve read you certainly can). Run an NP-203/205 doubler which I would presume you can find the parts in a junkyard and put it together yourself.

THen run anywhere from 37's-40's depending on what you can find for cheap. I bet you could build the whole thing for WELL under $5K since you have many of the parts already.
Only other thing would be a cage...and with your contacts I bet you could still get it all done for under $5K.
Click to expand...
Gear setting isn't a problem with this group, nor is the ability to get strong differentials on the cheap.
Also, a cage is extremely NOT a problem for Goatman.
Whatever it is, with Goatman doing it, you better believe, it is going to turn out with much more money spent than originally planned.:D
 
043500 said:
Pull the bed (duh) and chop it down to about 108" WB. Get a pair of junkyard 60's (with 4.10's...won't have to regear unless it sees alot of street use) and drop in the 4.0L/auto you have. Weld up the diffs (or add spools/lockers of choice...but you said CHEAP).

custom build your own link setup front and rear (from what I;ve read you certainly can). Run an NP-203/205 doubler which I would presume you can find the parts in a junkyard and put it together yourself.

THen run anywhere from 37's-40's depending on what you can find for cheap. I bet you could build the whole thing for WELL under $5K since you have many of the parts already.
Only other thing would be a cage...and with your contacts I bet you could still get it all done for under $5K.
Click to expand...

OK, a few more parameters. I'll keep the cab, since I like a little protection from the sun and rain, and I like a windshield. No doors, and tubed out from the cab back, with a full cage. I've already done my current cage, and narrowed my front D44, so I can handle all fab work and mechanical work, except for setting up gears. I won't run a spool in the front, but I'll run a spool or weld the rear. I'll build my own link suspension. Tire size needs to be what stock axles can handle, since I won't spend the coin on chromo's and CTM's.

I can get axles pretty cheap, it's just a matter of finding them. Oh, and besides wanting to build on the cheap, I'm lazy so it can't be too labor intensive.
 
Goatman said:
Tire size needs to be what stock axles can handle, since I won't spend the coin on chromo's and CTM's.
Click to expand...

well unless you're sticking with 33s (yeah right!) that means a 60 front, right? either that or something military like Volvo or Mog portals, or rockwells. I think Volvo C303 portals and 37s would be awesome.

or just make me an offer :laugh3:

becca0204lk2rm.md.jpg
 
Yeah, the rockers are going to have to be cut and beveled way in. That's one of the reasons for doing it. I'd like to do something similar to the XJ, but the problem is that when I run doors I'd want some rocker protection sticking out. Can't have it both ways.

There are a few choices for the rear, but not much for the front. A cheap D60 is going to have the pumpkin on the wrong side, so I'd have to get a D300. Those are heavier and hang down more than a 231, but are strong with a 32 slpline output. I'm thinking about how low the diff gears would need to be to not worry about low t-case gears. Gear choices are better with a D60 than with a 14 bolt, one negative of the 14 bolt.

Does anyone know what's involved in changing an Atlas from drivers drop to pass drop?
 
if you get a 300, and advance adaptors clocking ring, you can get it pretty much flat, on the passangers side, but you have to make your own shifters
 
Goatman said:
OK, a few more parameters. I'll keep the cab, since I like a little protection from the sun and rain, and I like a windshield. No doors, and tubed out from the cab back, with a full cage. .
Click to expand...


This is really funny since you live in CALIFORNIA! The state of no rain!
 
You have your current rig pretty well nailed as it sits... I imagine it could serve as your 'camping & trip rig' for years to come.

I question what the objective is? Are you looking for something that performs similarly or a little better? A 'beater' that you can abuse more than the XJ?

You know your way around a mid-arm/XJ coil & leaves... I'd like to see what you'd do with links/coilovers over 60s.
 
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