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Ruff stuff frame stiffener fitment issues

crazymaci

NAXJA Forum User
Location
seattle

I'm having fitment issues with these stiffys, I'm a good 1/4" short of getting to the floor boards. Anyone else experienced this? Should I cut off the lip.heat it up with a torch and press it up and weld? The problem I see with that is it would align perfectly with the seem and all the rubber crap under it. Should I just leave it? Pretty unhappy though. I tried pushing up with a jack under just the lip and a no go there
 
I believe Dan is saying not to weld it to the floor in that thread. "Long stress riser at the weak point of the floor" There was a tread somewhere that touched on the subject. The floor wasn't very uniform from the factory and that played into the 1" lip not interfacing with the floor. When I did mine I just welded the low side of the slot in the fold.


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I believe Dan is saying not to weld it to the floor in that thread. "Long stress riser at the weak point of the floor" There was a tread somewhere that touched on the subject. The floor wasn't very uniform from the factory and that played into the 1" lip not interfacing with the floor. When I did mine I just welded the low side of the slot in the fold.


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Can you explain where you see this ?? & why you think this ??

The 'long stress riser' he talks about in the 1st post is talking about other brands that do not have the lip....weld them to the frame only with no lip and the frame becomes stiff, and stress could cause a shearing action at the junction of the floor to the frame since it is a thin area with only factory spot welds. The weak point is the junction of the very stiff frame and the very flexible floor. When you weld the lip on, that weak point goes from ~ 1/8" wide to 1" wide, and is no longer a weak point, unless you weld it too much.

As in anything, when a thin piece of metal is attached to a thicker or stiffer piece of metal, the joint between the two is a weak point, since they move differently, the joint can work harden and crack/break. Take the crack prone metal at the door hinges on cherokees. The stiff hinge plate moves and flexes the thin sheet metal every time the door is opened, and over time, the sheet metal cracks. Well, if you have a plate on the backside of the thin sheet metal to spread the load over a larger section, or added metal to the base of the hinge plate to make it's footprint on the sheet metal larger, the tendancy to crack would be much less.


I ain't no engineer, but here's how I see it.....

With the lip welded, that thin area at the floor to frame junction is now 1" wide, the floor is now stiffer/stronger, and has the factory spot welds plus the welds from welding the lip to the floorpan, so there is no shearing action possible since the floor is now part of the frame support. When welded, the lip will provide support from the floor pan sagging or being pushed up (stops flexing, which is what cracks the floor pan).

With the lip not welded, the lip will give support, but their is no added strength in the thin junction area since you still have only the factory spot welds, and while you do have some support, there is nothing that stiffens the floor pan or attaches it to the lip for the added strength. Unwelded, the lip will only give support from the floor pan sagging (doesn't stop flexing, and only limits it in 1 direction).

Think of it this way.....the stiffener is a knife, and the floor pan is butter.....is it easier to push the knife thru the butter with the blade straight up & down (as in stiffeners with no lip), or flat (as in stiffeners with a lip).
 
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I saw this in my searches. Sucks for me I guess. I think I'm just gonna cut off that top lip.sucks cause I didn't prep the Frame under those parts

You could add a strip of metal so it reaches the floor pan....if you used a 1" strip, then you could drill holes in the stiffy lip on the inner portion so you can spot weld the strip to the stiffy, and then weld the strip to the stiffy on the outer edge when you weld them both to the floor.

If mine have this issue, that's what I am gonna do. I also plan on drilling holes in the floor so I can spot weld the floor to the lip from up top vice welding the lip to the floor upside down.
 
Do not weld them to the floor! That sheetmetal is much thinner than the "frame rail" and will create a stress riser potentially leading to a crack in the floor pan. It's been my understanding that the "lip" was intended to be a jack point to suck them up tight to the frame rail. Welding them to the floor will do nothing for strength.
 
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Do not weld them to the floor! That sheetmetal is much thinner than the "frame rail" and will create a stress riser potentially leading to a crack in the floor pan. It's been my understanding that the "lip" was intended to be a jack point to suck them up tight to the frame rail. Welding them to the floor will do nothing for strength

Well, I just spoke to them on the phone this morning, as I have a set waiting to get put on, and yes, they are designed to weld to the floor......just not in one 1 long bead, spot or stitch welding is recommended.

If that was the intention of the lip, it is not mentioned as such anywhere, and they would then be no better than the others....actually worse in that the lip will be a catch all for mud & moisture.

Welding the lip to the floor will strengthen the floor at the junction since you will be increasing the section width of the metal as well as ensuring the load of the floor to frame junction will be spread out over a larger area, making it less prone to cracking at the stress riser. To keep the floor from cracking you have to keep it from flexing in relation to the frame.


I know what I am gonna do....yall do what you want.


Here's a cut & paste from their post above:

We have been making these for 5+ years now and there are a few things I would like to say.

First off, we don't make these to be the cheapest. That would imply we cut corners to do things cheaper, we don't.

Secondly, ours are the only ones that broaden the floor base connection to spread the load rather than make it a point load on the very weak floor. We are also the only reinforcements that go into the wheelwells, further strengthening the entire chassis.

Lastly, ours is the only one made from 3/16" steel, thinner steel does something but not much... By making it thick enough you are actually building something that approximates a frame and not simply tin plating it... These are something you can mount your suspension to and feel confident about.

Enough said, yes ours are more expensive but they have a reason to be...


Only way to broaden the floor base connection would be to weld the floor to the lip.....otherwise they still act independently, so no benefit per se
 
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Well, I just spoke to them on the phone this morning, as I have a set waiting to get put on, and yes, they are designed to weld to the floor......just not in one 1 long bead, spot or stitch welding is recommended.

If that was the intention of the lip, it is not mentioned as such anywhere, and then they are no better than the others....actually worse in that the lip will be a catch all for mud & moisture.

I know what I am gonna do....yall do what you want.

You can seam seal that seam btw ;)

I would never recommend anyone to weld 20ga to 3/16", but hey to each their own. That bend add's strength to the whole stiffener even without any welding to the floor pan.
 
You can seam seal that seam btw ;)

I would never recommend anyone to weld 20ga to 3/16", but hey to each their own. That bend add's strength to the whole stiffener even without any welding to the floor pan.

True, but the stress riser isn't in the stiffener..............................
 
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What Im saying Is that lip adds an additional shear plane to the entire stiffener. It doesn't have to be welded to the floor in order for It to add strength. The strength comes from the shape of the stiffener combined with the OH and vert welds of the assembly. Welding it to the floor pan however will only add stress risers via the substantial heat input and varying thickness.
 
You can seam seal that seam btw ;)

I would never recommend anyone to weld 20ga to 3/16", but hey to each their own. That bend add's strength to the whole stiffener even without any welding to the floor pan.

Agreed, welding two plates together with massively different stiffness is a sure fire way to get more stress cracks. I think 3/16 is too much personally, but maybe not for some people going all out with a cage and boat sides etc.
 
I'm thinking about buying those.
If that situation happens in that location, first I would put bolts through to pull the two together, then upside down stitch weld, fun.
Then I would remove the bolts and rosette weld from inside w/ a copper plate underneath the jeep where the bolt holes are.
It looks like you'll be in the rear seat floor area, right?

IMO
 


So I torched off the lip and I'll weld up the top. I'm not looking forward to grinding off the lip on the other side since it's mostly welded on.
 
If the whole installation looks like that, probably not a good idea.
op made it look like one spot.
Doesn't matter anyway because they cut the part end to end.
Guess I'm not going that route for uni body stiffeners.
Sheez, that part has somewhat good reviews too.
 
I'm just finishing one side and I gotta say I'm disappointed I'm putting these on my jeep,being such thick steel I found it very difficult to pull it tight against the frame with a slew of bessy clamps, and if your frame already has a few dings in it,forget about it. And I'm no novice to metal work either, I fabricate heavy steel and weld dual sheild .045 at 25v 370 all day long. Not much fun getting thick to thin
 
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