Track bar choices

My track bar has started popping. I currently have a JKS that I got from DPG with the rest of my lift. The bracket is wallowed out at the point the track bar bolts to the bracket. Simple enough to fix, right? New bracket and crush washer.

That got me thinking, my track bar is only good for 3.5" and I'm just over 4" with ACOS and boomerang shackles. I also have front frame cladding which makes that bracket fit very poorly. I have wanted a double shear track bar for some time, ever since installing one on my wife's Jeep.

As I see it I only have a couple options. Clayton or Rubicon Express RE1660,RE1670, and RE1665. I like the Clayton track bar because it doesn't require a pitman arm drop, but I also really like the way that the Rubicon Express track bar can tie into the other side of the frame. The IRO track bar is beefy, but its like a 2" drop.

I don't want a drop bracket, because my geometry is pretty good right now. I have also read drop pitman arms add additional stress loads to the box and bracket, which I realize is probably paranoia since I don't wheel enough but I have bought into it.

If you had the choice between the RE or the Clayton what would you pick? Are there other options I am missing?

I have the IRO double shear track bar, it has a .75 inch drop. I have run it at 3.5" and 5.5" of lift, and the .75 inch TB drop has not been an issue. I still have stock steering, not ideal, but it works. XJ Cherokee typically do not need a drop pitman arm until you have 6-8 inches of lift.

xeroOTG said:

If you had the choice between the RE or the Clayton what would you pick? Are there other options I am missing?

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you need to first start with the trackbar you intend to use. before you pick a bracket.


the clayton brackets are 2.5" inside width to fit a standard johny joint. my RE double sheer bracket measures 2.0" inside width, it fits my heim joint as i intended. the IRO trackbar uses a bushing at both ends i think, i believe their mount is even narrower yet.

Unless you find a good deal on used parts. The IRO double shear TB/bracket combo will be the least expensive, good quality part.
Clayton, Synergy, Tnt, etc. Find your budget and what you like/want.

VAhasnoWAVES said:

you need to first start with the trackbar you intend to use. before you pick a bracket.

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I guess I am missing what you are saying here. Are you suggesting that I need to pick a track bar that fits my needs? That is not something I had honestly thought about, I figured a track bar is a track bar, and that the bracket was the part you'd pick based off of the rest of the suspension's geometry. Can you point me towards how to pick the right track bar? Unfortunately my Jeep spends 90% of its time on the road, and only spends every couple weekends offroad.

are you planning to use the stock axle mount? if so... any manufactured trackbar is probably going to have a bushing at this end. if you have some sort of aftermarket steering, now would be the time to address making the trackbar parallel with the drag link (if needed)

but what im getting at... is different manufacturers use different joints at the frame. because of this, all double sheer trackbar brackets are not the same. a manufacturer using a johny joint may offer a bracket measuring 2.625" wide. a manufacturer using a heim may build their trackbar to be 2.000" to fit misalignment spacers. the IRO bracket is even narrower yet, as they use a bushing at both ends of the trackbar.

there are ways around this... lets say you have a trackbar that uses a heim like the 1600 trackbar from rubicon express. you can use their bracket. you can use something wider like claytons, and use washers or make spacers to make up the gap. or you could use a narrower bracket like IRO's and turn down the misalignment spacers to fit.

at 4" and your described use, probably any aftermarket trackbar will suffice. there are companies that people will tell you to stay away from (for example rustys or rough stuff). the important things to note are that you are going to want a bracket that remains somewhere around stock height, and you are not going to want/need a drop pitman arm. if you want to add a brace and cannot fabricate one yourself, that is also something to consider.

some good ones to look into:
IRO
TNT
Clayton
Rubicon Espress

pick your poison.

I vote for the Rubicon Express. We run one on the racer and have *NEVER* broken one in the 9 seasons we have been running in Jeepspeed. I think we are currently the only team running that has never broken one.

xeroOTG said:

...my Jeep spends 90% of its time on the road, and only spends every couple weekends offroad.

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Then a less expensive one will work just fine. I recommend IRO.

pavement princess needs a rubber bushing at the axle end, the RE trackbar is poly, TNT is rubber, dunno about the others

ehall said:

pavement princess needs a rubber bushing at the axle end

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Why?

cause poly squeaks and vibes

ROBZ95Xj said:

Why?

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ehall said:

cause poly squeaks and vibes

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Never had an issue with my RE 1660HD trackbar. It also has a superflex joint at the frame end. I'm sure one could put a rubber bushing in its place.

Not many people know about Metalcloak, but check out their new double shear design that uses an RE frame mount. Probably what I'll upgrade my existing metalcloak trackbar to one of these days.
http://www.metalcloak.com/TJ-Long-Arm-RE-Upgrade-Front-Track-Bar-p/7095.htm

RE1660HD and dont look back. Get the track bar bracket brace too, it will stiffen the front end considerably.

John

nosigma said:

RE1660HD and dont look back. Get the track bar bracket brace too, it will stiffen the front end considerably.

John

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Anyone had success running the re1660 and re1665 bracket at 3.5" of height from a RE Spring? I an not afraid to trim the male threads off to be able to center my axle but just wanted to see if it has been done with out shortening the re1660 bar.

themauler said:

Anyone had success running the re1660 and re1665 bracket at 3.5" of height from a RE Spring? I an not afraid to trim the male threads off to be able to center my axle but just wanted to see if it has been done with out shortening the re1660 bar.

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I ran the RE1660HD with some 3" "unknown" coils and had no issues.

I miss my TNT track bar and bracket. its the best one ive had and ive had;
rustys
rough country
rock krawler (this one was nice too)
and iron rock (good bang for your buck)

the RE and clayton both look nice too. I use a RE mount on my otk track bar now. I should have gotten a TNT mount instead though. the TNT moves the mount forward on the frame an inch or so to keep the track bar from rubbing the diff.

ehall said:

cause poly squeaks and vibes

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Gotta keep em greased. A lot more solid feel with poly over rubber

themauler said:

Anyone had success running the re1660 and re1665 bracket at 3.5" of height from a RE Spring? I an not afraid to trim the male threads off to be able to center my axle but just wanted to see if it has been done with out shortening the re1660 bar.

Click to expand...

trimming the male end isnt going to do anything. bottomed out on the joint is bottomed out...

ehall said:

cause poly squeaks and vibes

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So I should pull the poly replacement out of my stock bar and put rubber back in?

I have zero issues with poly.