XJ Procrack swaybar

[blondejoncherokee]

I think mine was off a 1991 trooper

 

[cal]

Yea, Currie guys mentioned they could swap in a 0.8xx bar. Still not positive that's enough for my weight. Going to dig through the math this evening, but I prefer fabricating my own parts either way, so if it's feasible, I'll be doing it myself.

We weigh about the same and its more than enough for my car.

 

[blistovmhz]

I think mine was off a 1991 trooper

What's your rig weigh roughly, and what sorta of lift/tires are you running?

 

[blondejoncherokee]

5200-5500 loaded 37s now 40s . 4-6" lift

 

[blistovmhz]

5200-5500 loaded 37s now 40s . 4-6" lift

How's your articulation with that diameter bar and that ridiculous amount of weight?
Cal, I'm not discounting your input here, just collecting data .
My rig is just about between blondejons and Cals. My math is telling me a 7/8 bar is a tiny bit lighter than I want, but that's with a 16" steel arm. I could get away with it by moving a hole back. A 1" bar with a 19" arm comes out to almost exactly the same torque. (This is quick math.).
Ultimately, I don't know enough about my rig to plug in ridiculously accurate numbers so I just need to get in the ballpark and I think I could get away with anything between 0.850 and 1.0". I can't make the math work for 3/4" because the arms would have to be short enough to fold backward at the max (useful) droop.

Blondejon, got any pictures/video showing the bar in action? Same goes for Cal (couldn't find much video for your "car" man. wtf's up with that?

 

[cal]

Blondejon, got any pictures/video showing the bar in action? Same goes for Cal (couldn't find much video for your "car" man. wtf's up with that?

Video isn't as impressive as pictures, so people don't take it much, but I found some.

Keep in mind we aren't on it as hard here as we usually would be (we love to jump the living shit out of this car on the short course, normally), because this was taken the morning after this happened:

We were still trying to build some confidence in our field repair (which held up great, btw, but we had other problems later in the day).

Anyways, on to the video.

 

[blistovmhz]

Did you tear the top of the knuckle off there, or am I seeing things?

 

[cal]

We got t-boned by another car, hit us dead in the center of the wheel, during qualifying.

Broke the outer knuckle, inner knuckle, balljoint, tie rod, draglink, pitman arm, locker, spindle, wheel bearings, CTM u-joint.

Dallas at Stinkfaby Racing worked the entire night (literally, non stop, strait thru) to put the car back together so we could race in the morning.

The front end held together for the race (but required a full rebuild later), but other problems took us out on the 4th lap. One of two DNF's we have on record. The other was King of the Hammers 2012, where we broke a rear axle housing and shaft due to a not so great truss design.


Start around post 1400.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1075100&page=47

 

[blistovmhz]

So, to the guys who are running the 1" bar, how's it all holding up a few years later? Does anyone have any video of their (1") bar in action? I'm just gearing up to go shopping (found a guy with a tonne of wrecked Troopers a few blocks from me).

My rear end already flexes VERY well, so I'm almost worried that any anti-rock in the front will force the rear to work TOO hard, but I figure worst case, I'll throw one in the rear as well if need be. I've got lots of room to do so.

Really would like to see someone flexing out with theirs though, as well as see some hot side-hilling action to really get a feel for the difference.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Just try it out. If you don't like it take it off and sell it. You won't be out muc money and it's worth knowing if it works in your application .