Sideshow
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lynnwood, Wa
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XJ Procrack swaybar
- Thread starter Sideshow
- Start date
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Still holding up? I am hitting the junkyard Saturday and my shopping list is pretty empty...
- Location
- sacramento
Ya I was just looking for this thread and it popped up again , perfect. I would love to see more ProCrack builds along with an update on this one,
Sideshow
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lynnwood, Wa
Yes, it's been flawless.
- Location
- San Diego
do you have any pictures of the spacers you mounted to keep the arms centered?
- Location
- sacramento
ert01
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
I'm curious how much turning was required to get the silverado torsion bar to work for you and what the weight of your rig is approx...
I'm very interested in doing this but my jeep is quite heavy when fully loaded.
I have a wife and 2 kids and we never go wheeling without a full load of camping gear. If I throw the roof top tent on it and load up my full size spare and some jerry cans, it starts to get heavy in a hurry. I have the genright long range fuel tank and rock sliders and beefy bumpers and a winch too.
I have an old southbend lathe with a 4' bed. How long approx is the silverado bar?
What mounts did you use on the framerails?
I mine aswell update mine I finished at the end of summer '13. I just ended up welding angle iron to my bumper mounts and buying new sway bar bushings and mounts. I also welded the arms to the actual torsion bar and zero problems even after DD/weekend wheeler duty. I love the balance of axle articulation between the front and rear axles now. Before my front axle did all of the flexing. Little note: the torsion bar is the izuzu trooper bar and the arm plates are made of 1/2" steel.
anthrax323
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Antonio, TX
How are your axle-side sway bar mounts holding up? I recently found mine are bent to piss and back using the stock sway bar and some JKS2001 disconnects.
tigmeister
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- usa
Just read through this entire thread. IMO, tacking the flange adapter to the end of the shaft isn't going to effect the strength of the setup. The tacks will break if the spline engagement isn't very tight, but will keep the bar in place with no real negative effects other than if you need to remove the flanges later. A couple thoughts of mine would be to drill and tap the just the flange for a set screw, or weld a collar to the inboard side of the arms with set screw(s) to hold the bar laterally stable.
In my experience, (many years as a professional fabricator)(yeah, another pro), welding on spring steel without completely annealing, hardening, and re-tempering, WILL result in breakage, BUT, just tacking on the end like was done, will work in retaining the bar to the flanges without much of an issue. Just keep an eye on the bar to make sure it doesn't deform the tacks enough to let the bar walk out of the spline engagement.
In my experience, (many years as a professional fabricator)(yeah, another pro), welding on spring steel without completely annealing, hardening, and re-tempering, WILL result in breakage, BUT, just tacking on the end like was done, will work in retaining the bar to the flanges without much of an issue. Just keep an eye on the bar to make sure it doesn't deform the tacks enough to let the bar walk out of the spline engagement.
In my experience, (many years as a professional fabricator)(yeah, another pro), welding on spring steel without completely annealing, hardening, and re-tempering, WILL result in breakage, BUT, just tacking on the end like was done, will work in retaining the bar to the flanges without much of an issue. Just keep an eye on the bar to make sure it doesn't deform the tacks enough to let the bar walk out of the spline engagement.
Mine were originally tacked and the tacks broke after one test drive so I just turned the welder up and welded the collar completely onto the splines and have been fine since a year ago. No slow cooling or reheating done
And if the spring metal ever breaks I won't be disappointed. Probably just build a new one and actually take time to drill and tap the ends...
- Location
- sacramento
so how hard is it to drill and tap spring steel? I have a 1.5 HP 17" drill press and a SNAP on tap and die set, I am thinking that should do it? is it too hard for the tap ? the other plan is to tack weld the arms on, and grind a flat spot in the bar on each side and use a set screw
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When I tried drilling and tapping mine it didn't put up much of a fight to a drill bit but I snapped a tap deep in the bar. I think I bottomed the tap and lost track and figured there would be some extra resistance from the hard metal but I lost that battle. Note that I drilled the end of the bar on a lathe. I think tapping it would be convenient but I like the assurance after I welded it that the only way the collars were going to come off is if the bar broke and that hasn't happened yet!
whoooops :explosion
- Location
- sacramento
Ya I broke a snap on tap too. sucks. drilled out super easy.
used some ruffstuff 1/2" hems and some random DOM I had , then sleeved it with 1 1/8 .095 wall chromoly to build the end links. made the arms out of 1/2" plate. welded and bolted to the torsion bar mounts, which are welded to the torsion bar. poly bushings. flipped the mounts outwards to clear the track bar mount.
used some ruffstuff 1/2" hems and some random DOM I had , then sleeved it with 1 1/8 .095 wall chromoly to build the end links. made the arms out of 1/2" plate. welded and bolted to the torsion bar mounts, which are welded to the torsion bar. poly bushings. flipped the mounts outwards to clear the track bar mount.
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blistovmhz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver, BC
Hate to revive this, but I didn't see much in the way of sizes posted.
What was the diameter and length of the Izuzu torsion bar, and what year-ish did it come from?
What was the diameter and length of the Izuzu torsion bar, and what year-ish did it come from?
- Location
- sacramento
I read the thread back in the day to get the right torsion bar. I am still running my pro crack sway bar. I am transplanting it to my new rig.
blistovmhz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver, BC
I know the OP posted a 1" diameter, but no mention of length. Trying to do the math for my heep to see if 1" is too big. I've also read on other threads that the Trooper used 7/8" diameter bar, so hoping someone who's got one can provide a verified diameter and length.
Was thinking about the Currie Antirock, but that 3/4" is (I assume) engineered (properly) for a stock-ish weight XJ with .. .probably less articulation than I've got, plus I'm running 63" (3.5" lift) chevy leafs in the rear, which stiffen things up (though my mass may negate that).
Currie support just got back to me about their numbers (which they didn't give me). One of their guys runs the XJ antirock (0.75") on his JeepSpeed rig which weighs in at 4300lbs and says he's got it set on the stiffest setting and works perfectly. Given I've got 700lbs on him, I'm guessing I need a 7/8" bar, or possibly a 1" bar if I've got long arms.
Was thinking about the Currie Antirock, but that 3/4" is (I assume) engineered (properly) for a stock-ish weight XJ with .. .probably less articulation than I've got, plus I'm running 63" (3.5" lift) chevy leafs in the rear, which stiffen things up (though my mass may negate that).
Currie support just got back to me about their numbers (which they didn't give me). One of their guys runs the XJ antirock (0.75") on his JeepSpeed rig which weighs in at 4300lbs and says he's got it set on the stiffest setting and works perfectly. Given I've got 700lbs on him, I'm guessing I need a 7/8" bar, or possibly a 1" bar if I've got long arms.
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- Location
- Hammertown, USA
You can ask Currie to swap the .750 bar out for the .800 or .850 bar.
Some guys will say yes, some guys will say no, its a matter of how nice you are, but its not off the table.
We run the 850 bar, and I dont think I would want to run any more (and its not necessary).
Some guys will say yes, some guys will say no, its a matter of how nice you are, but its not off the table.
We run the 850 bar, and I dont think I would want to run any more (and its not necessary).
iluv83vettes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Houston
Really? That's the first I've heard of that ...
blistovmhz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver, BC
Yea, Currie guys mentioned they could swap in a 0.8xx bar. Still not positive that's enough for my weight. Going to dig through the math this evening, but I prefer fabricating my own parts either way, so if it's feasible, I'll be doing it myself.
Works well. I picked up a set of ProComp 3.5" lift leafs. My pre-purchase math put about 5" of compression at ride height on the 9" unloaded arc, which worked out perfectly for my build. Post-install, I discovered I was only 0.25mm off. The ProComp's come with an overload leaf which adds 250lbs/inch rate, which is WAY too high for my purposes, and it engages at 5", so it had to go. What I didn't account for was sway with the extra long leafs, and with the overload removed, it was a bit scary. Felt almost like driving without a swaybar on a 6.5" lift. Chucked in a 2.5" lift XJ main leaf to the second from bottom of the pack (where it fits) and this stiffened things up nicely. Articulation is miles better than any XJ length leaf I've ever ridden, but because it's so much softer, I need to stiffen up the rear shocks a tonne (and haven't done so yet) or else I bottom out real fast on the moguls. The longer leaf also makes me slightly less stable side-hilling, which is why I'm looking at an antirock bar now. The rear already works pretty hard (certainly more than the XJ leafs I've had) but not quite as much as I'd like. I think with a 0.85 - 1.0" antirock in the front, it'll ride almost like it's 4-linked. (crosses fingers).
I found the following numbers on an Izuzu parts site:
Isuzu Trooper 4WD July 89-1991 27mm 39.313"
Isuzu Rodeo 4WD 1990-1997: 27mm x 39.313"
Isuzu Amigo 4WD 1989-1995: 27mm x 39.313"
Isuzu Amigo 4WD 1989-1995: 27mm x 39 313"
Isuzu pickup 4wd & 2wd 89-95: 27mm x 39.313"
Isuzu Pickup 2wd & 4wd: 1972-1980, 26mm x 38.125" #1526
Isuzu Pickup 2wd & 4wd: 1981-1983, 26mm x 36.50" #1536
Isuzu Trooper 4wd: 1984-Oct 1986, 26mm x 36.50" #1546 (currently sold out)
Isuzu 4wd 1987-1997, 26mm x 36.5" #1546 (currently sold out)
Isuzu 4wd & Trooper Nov 1986-June 1989, 25.5mm x 39.313" #1548 (currently sold out)
Isuzu 2wd Pickup, Amigo 2WD 1989-1995, 24mm x 39.313" #1556
Isuzu 4wd Trooper & VX 1992-2002, 31mm x 47.812", #1549
Isuzu 4wd Rodeo, Amigo, rodeo Sport, Honda Passport 4WD: 1998-2004, 30mm x 44.937" #1558 (Heavy Duty)
Isuzu 4wd Rodeo, Amigo, rodeo Sport, Honda Passport 4WD: 1998-2004, 28mm x 44.937" #1557 (Medium Duty)
In my case, with the 35" shoes, I'm not positive I can fit a 39" bar in there. At full stuff and lock, looks like it'd be REAL tight. Yea, I'm aware that I probably shouldn't be at full stuff and lock at the same time, but it may happen.
To the guys who've done this, anyone running a 35" tire with a 39" bar? (My back is out and I really shouldn't be digging around under the truck if I plan on walking this month).
That 26mm x 36.5" bar is looking pretty sweet, although I'd need some serious bend in the arms to get it around the coils. 39" just about clears the coils by itself.
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