XJ Procrack swaybar

[Sideshow]

1/2 ton Silverado 1-7/16 OD tortion bar and needs tuning(turned down) for off road use or disconnected. Pictures, na, I keep killing cameras, sorry. What do you want to know?

What is a straight bore sieves/bushing? I'm familiar with woodruff keys. How does the part marked USA transfer it's load to the outside cylindrical piece of steel, the one the arms are welded to?

 

[xj9140]

What is a straight bore sieves/bushing?

A sheave or pulley is what a belt rides on. I mostly deal in industrial sprockets/chains. A straight bore means the hole bored in the center is straight. Set screws would be used to retain the sheave or sprocket and key. The problem comes when the shaft, key, and or bore become worn, at that point tightening the set screws move the weldement off center and everything goes to shit. Where as with a taper bore hub, the bushing keeps everything true and on center. The clamping force is incredibly strong when the bushing is torqued and punched properly. The part labeled USA is a Martin 1-7/16 bore, taper lock bushing, Installed in a weld on taper bore hub. The key is cold rolled 3/8" key stock.

I'm familiar with woodruff keys. How does the part marked USA transfer it's load to the outside cylindrical piece of steel, the one the arms are welded to?

The arms are welded to a taper bore hub. The bushing installs in the hub and clamps both bar, key, and hub, as you torque and punch the pusher screws.

 

[Vanimal]

Your key slot is poorly machined (off center and or too deep)or the bushing is improperly installed if you are having problems. A loose fitting key will deform. A properly sized key, machined key slot and taper bushing will not.

a couple tack welds keeping the splined colllar from sliding off the end of the splined shaft with several inches of engagement and little side load will be fine.
A poor weld holding the entire arm on is a different story.

 

[xj9140]

This is why its a Procracker.

 

[Sideshow]

A sheave or pulley is what a belt rides on. I mostly deal in industrial sprockets/chains. A straight bore means the hole bored in the center is straight. Set screws would be used to retain the sheave or sprocket and key. The problem comes when the shaft, key, and or bore become worn, at that point tightening the set screws move the weldement off center and everything goes to shit. Where as with a taper bore hub, the bushing keeps everything true and on center. The clamping force is incredibly strong when the bushing is torqued and punched properly. The part labeled USA is a Martin 1-7/16 bore, taper lock bushing, Installed in a weld on taper bore hub. The key is cold rolled 3/8" key stock.

The arms are welded to a taper bore hub. The bushing installs in the hub and clamps both bar, key, and hub, as you torque and punch the pusher screws.

Thanks, I get it now.

 

[themauler]

i'd be more worried about that weld though.

:doh:

 

[iluv83vettes]

This thing explode in a turn and turn into a fireball yet?

 

[Gold Cobra]

He's not responding because he died mid corner a week ago.

His swaybar didn't fail, it was Autoerotic asphyxiation.

 

[zachandandy]

Could be that he's out using his jeep instead of web wheeling and worrying because he didn't buy all of his parts off the shelf?

 

[DeftwillP]

So he was using the swaybar for um.....gratification?

 

[Sideshow]

:eyes:

You are all troublemakers. :twak: Knock it off

I have several days of DDing and one day of trail-runs in. It handles so much better on-road and off, it's way more stable in all situations and I'm having a hard time coming up with disadvantages honestly. I jumped the jeep a little which may have caused one of the arms to bend outwards. Throughout the day I had to bend the bar back with my foot but it continued to perform well.

I have since added some tubular spacers to keep the bar centered on the "frame" rails, once one arm was bent it shoved the bar all the way to one side to grind on a bolt. It didn't do any damage but it was mostly just an annoying clunk/squeak as the arm traveled over the bolt head. I also added lateral reinforcing to both arms in preparation for the next trail-run. l'll tell you how it goes.

For anyone performing this mod, initially I would suggest some lateral bracing on the arms, and a spacer to keep the bar centered in relation to the framerails. Only time and testing will tell but I pulled the bar off and inpected the welds, no-cracks whatsoever in-spite of bending the 3/8" steel-plate arms.


[/quote]

 

[bails85]

I can't believe you bent the arm. I thought that would have been the strong part.

 

[rockclimber]

Saw that coming...a piece of 1/4" for bracing down the side of the arm will keep you headache free.

 

[Sideshow]

I cut the corner off of a piece of square tube (3/16" wall) and welded it on the arms to resist the bending. The arm's now have a triangular shape which tapers towards the link attachment. I've had 4 trail-runs on pro-crack+ approximately 500 road miles so far, no bending and no cracking, it works great.

 

[themauler]

I cut the corner off of a piece of square tube (3/16" wall) and welded it on the arms to resist the bending. The arm's now have a triangular shape which tapers towards the link attachment. I've had 4 trail-runs on pro-crack+ approximately 500 road miles so far, no bending and no cracking, it works great.

Glad to hear because I have started this same project myself. My original plan was to drill and tap holes in the sides but the strength of the steel swallowed a tap and I think I will just weld the ends like you did. You didn't have any trouble welding the brackets to the steel arm did you? Just want to make sure I am welding steel to steel and not steel to cast iron.

:doh:

Should be burning these bad boys out soon!

 

[rockclimber]

Should be burning these bad boys out soon!

these will bend.

3/8" minimun, and even then I would want to have a brace.

 

[Sideshow]

Glad to hear because I have started this same project myself. My original plan was to drill and tap holes in the sides but the strength of the steel swallowed a tap and I think I will just weld the ends like you did. You didn't have any trouble welding the brackets to the steel arm did you? Just want to make sure I am welding steel to steel and not steel to cast iron.

Nope, no problems welding the brackets, they welded just like the steel plate.

 

[Goose_XJ88]

pics of the new "upgrades" to this setup please

 

[themauler]

Nope, no problems welding the brackets, they welded just like the steel plate.

Great! :yelclap:

 

[themauler]

Nope, no problems welding the brackets, they welded just like the steel plate.

Fantastic :yelclap: