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XJ Floor Pan Rusted Floors FAQ

I'll be sure tomorrow, but I believe the HF POS rods were the culprit.

I got a ride to Lowe's today and grabbed some 6013 1/16" Lincoln rods. Wow, what a difference.

The Chicago Electric welder seems to be doing a fine job. The majority of the weld is intact after using the chipping hammer. Also, I can pull up on the pan through the drain holes and the frame moves with it.

I'm so happy!

Spring break starts for us next week and it'd be really nice to get this thing on the road for that. Of course, the ultimate goal is to get it 'off' the road. The damn thing just doesn't look right without a few coats of mud on it.

I'm not a big fan of MIG. It has its place with everything else, but ARC is so versatile. It takes a little bit of practice, but I'm becoming much more confident with it. Can't wait to fire up the 230v Lincoln and fab some bumpers and rockers.

Matt
 
montanaman said:
Matt: Did you get your frame lined up now?
Click to expand...

I had a good friend come over because I needed a second pair of eyes.

After looking at it with the same stumped expression as my own for a few minutes, he said, "Dude, I think I found it, but I don't think you're gonna be happy about what it is."

He pointed out that the hinges on the driver side door have a considerable gap between them and the 'frame' as compared to the other side. There was slight movement in them when we lifted the door.

We did some quick estimations and believe that the deflection on the front of the door would be compounded enough at the other end to cause such a misalignment.

Shoot, that's cake. Anything's better than a twisted frame. I've just gotta get this pan done and then I'll figure out how I want to fix the door problem and beef up that area.

I dunno how I feel about unibodies at the moment. I just don't see any advantages from the wheeling point of view.

Matt
 
So, I'm pretty much done with the floor pan install. I still have to weld the parking brake brackets to the underside of the pan and put my console back in. Also, Opie kindly donated some roll-on bedliner that'll be going in soon. I'm taking a break now that it's functional so that I can enjoy some of my spring break.

I took her out last night.

n5102548_33811001_4995.jpg


Here's the pan. Yeah, that's mud inside. I need to find some rubber plugs to go in place of where they cut out for the factory, pointless steel plugs.
n5102548_33811002_5346.jpg


I didn't really take pride in my work until AC/DC came on the radio and I was keeping the beat by stomping my left foot into the now solid floor beneath it.

Not completely done, but good enough to relax for a bit.

Matt
 
Well, I guess I get to get in on this too, my '95 has a few spots of cancer over the exaust on the passenger side, pulled interior and carpet tonight, going to get the trusty grinder and brush wheel out and get all the paint outta there. Im not shure on what to lay down after I'm done, but I think either the walmart rattle can bed liner or some paint on herculiner. co$t is key so Im gonna do this as cheap as possible. But welding is the way I'm going, even since it is just a few spots. but tomorrow I will get the rear carpet out to see what its like back there. Rust makes me wanna :puke:
 
Thought I would bring this one back from the dead. How are your floors holding up fellas? I have a couple spots in need of repair and I am considering a whole new floor.
 
Yeah, was I glad to find this thread. I took the carpet out of my 96' and I bet you couldn't guess that most of the rear and the passenger side front floors were rusted. I know, I was as shocked as you are...lol...so anyways, this thread has given me lots of great info and the confidence to tackle this project myself. I just gotta get a hold of a welder.
 
My whole trunk is rusted out pretty badly along with a large hole in the drivers side floorpan (which I haven't messed with yet). Anyone consider doing 1/8" diamondplate in the trunk area, and if so, where did you buy the materials from?
 
I'm going to be tackling this project soon. Anyone have advice? Would it be ok to screw and seal them down for now until I can get someone to weld them in?
 
I'd say so, just remember that using sealant is going to make welding hell, especially if it is between the pieces of metal. I'd use nothing more than a few layers of some sort of tape that doesn't leave residue behind personally.

Also, the screw holes are going to require welding or filling if you want to do it "right".
 
I have access to an arc welder but have never welded before. Not sure if I wanna try on something as big as this. I guess I'm gonna try to find a shop or someone that will do it for me.
 
Welding thin sheet metal is... interesting. I'm pretty gimpy with a welder still, I'm really good at blowing holes in sheet metal that's for sure.
 
I used plain old pop rivets on my patches. The patches I put in two years ago are holding up fine - but the cancer is spreading and I need to do more work in there. :(
 
Personally, when I patched the floor pans on an old ford I had, I used a 14x28 pizza pan (from a shop I used to work at). I was able to cut it down and get 2 good patches out of it.

Basically I cleaned up the floor with a wire brush, laid out my patch, drilled some pilot holes, buttered the underside of the patch with roofing tar that had fiberglass strands in it, then used self tapping sheet metal screws. I topped it off with some more roofing tar to seal everything up.

Worked awesome.
 
Ok a question for all that have replaced your front pans, what do you do about the front mounts for the front seats, cut them out and replace? Replace floor around them? All of the replacement pan i have seen, none of them have the (crossmember) for mounting. I would guess for the rear mount (front seat) you could just bolt right threw the floor? I have just started this project, i am not a body work guy, i have never done anything like this before. I am fine with mechanical work, but this sheetmetal stuff scares me, not to mention I am VERY cheap!! So if someone can help me out with how to do the seat mounts that would be great!! thanks in advanced
 
Just got my replacement floors in from UPS and of course have a couple of questions.

Century Mig 110 volt, can be used both flux core and with gas, would flux core do the trick or should I borrow my friends tank? and get some new wire.

I don't believe I have to replace my entire front floor, only between the support and the rocker on the Driver side and from the tranny hump to the support on the Passenger side. would it be better to replace the whole thing or just patch what is rusted. I do have the entire passenger and driver side pans. what is best to use to seal the new pan or pieces I am going to be putting in.

I also plan on putting the carpet back in, has anyone ever run herculiner or POR-15 under the carpet. Should I, POR-15 then hurculiner then carpet? I live in the salt belt so I want to do it right. what is the best way to protect the underside of the jeep? I usually rubber undercoat every fall.
 
Gas welding would be best, flux core runs a little hotter and is more likely to burn holes but will work fine.

Depending on where there is rot it may or may not be best to replace most of it. I know I'd rather not have to grind down all those spot welds if it's not necessary.

Alot of people use the POR-15/Herculiner combo.
 
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