XJ Floor Pan Rusted Floors FAQ

[mackamitsu]

Not much farther, i'm hesitant as to how to seal up the new patches, i bought sheets of 18 and 20 guage...and i cut out the excess rust and grinded the rest away so i basically just need to get those patches welded up somehow....and seeing i dont have a welder i dont know what to do...i didnt want to spend money to pay someone to do it but i guess thats the best way to go right now huh? Let me know if the cold weld will work for something like this instead, otherwise i cant think of any other way around it. What do u think?

I recomend a product called Sikaflex 552. You need to have the metal prepped right, and follow the instructions, its not cheap (well cheaper then a welder) but it does work very well. You can get it at any good autobody supply shop. The great thing is, that beginners aren't intimidated by it, and it doesn't heat up the surrounding metal and burn off the rust proof cladding of the galvanized body metal.

 

[MattAnonymous]

Well, I went outside the other day to meet a friend of mine so that I could get a ride to grab some supplies. Low and behold, there he is rocking the Jeep via the rear bumper. After yelling a few choice words at him, he jumped off. I don't know what possessed him to do such a thing, but he did and now my driver side door isn't closing right.

I think I may add one more use to the farm jack... frame straightening. I just have to figure out where to start from and what I can safely get leverage from.

As far as what I'm going to do about the screw holes, I was thinking of running some thin diamond plate or just any ol' sheet metal over them, originally. Now, I'm thinking that since the truck will be mobile once the adhesive has cured, I can drive it out to where my arc welder resides and spot weld the holes. I think that'd make a lot of you old-school guys sleep better, too.

In the meantime, I have to find new seat brackets because the old ones rusted out. I've also gotta remove the front seat bracket studs and excess floorpan/seat bracket pieces.

I bought some brand name drill bits that specify no other use than drilling through metal, a gallon acetone to remove the factory sealant, paint, etc, a scraper, and some other knick-knacks.

My goal is to have all of the holes drilled, pan pulled back out, sealant removed, surfaces prepped, new radiator installed, front header panel and lights installed, and dents removed from driver side fender (separate from the floor pan stuff obviously) by the end of the day. However, that'll have to start after class, which is where I'm headed to now.

Peace,
Matt

PS: After I get back, I'm gonna post up some pics of my driver side door's current alignment situation. If you guys have any insight as to how to correct it, I'd really appreciate it.

 

[dizzymac]

Is this sitting on tires/wheels? You have the floor pan removed so you have lost the unibody integrity. I thnk your freind has managed to tweak your frame out of the alignment it was in when you removed the floor pans.
What I had to do when this happened on mine( had both pans out at the same time) was to put it up on jackstands. I used eight and leveled it on the the stands, this brought my frame back in to proper alignment and thus my door prob was cured.
Now that this has happened you can understand why some of us "old school"...lol, have concerns about you using an adhesive to hold in your pan. I know DC recommends the "glue", but that is for pan repairs. That floor pan really needs to connected to the rails and IMHO welding is the best way to go. If you start drilling holes in the rails you'll only weaken them.
This is a $uck job to do so you may as well do it the best possible way the first time and be done with it so you can enjoy...hopefully...many more years with your XJ.
Wish you all the best in your endeavor.

 

[mackamitsu]

Dizzy,

well I don't agree with your adhesive train of thought, having done floor boards in cars with adhesive (yes flimsy ricey honduhs). I think what the main issue was here is that he did not wait for the full curing time. Until the adhesive has cured, it will be weaker. Sekaflex is used on many body panels, and yes it is used on structural panels, so the adhesive isn't the issue, but I believe that he didn't let it cure properly, or was using something that wasn't automotive standard.

Matt,

straightening the frame is pretty easy, Dizzymac pretty much summed up the backyard way to do it. What adhesive are you using?

 

[tiburontropic]

What is the typical age of these vehicle that have rusted out floor pans. I have a 2001, should I be concerned or are the new ones better?

 

[MattAnonymous]

Ok, here are the shots of the door I promised.

And here are some pics of the door slightly ajar.

Oh and here's a pic of the pan with some of the screws going in (just test fitting).

The pan is listed as being for a 1996 XJ. I've got a 93, so I've had to 'customize' it here and there.

Matt

 

[maine96xj]

what is being used to insulate up by the firewall and over the cat if you are not coving the reapired floor with anyhting. im into mine now and i dont want to put carpet back in and cant afford vinyl. do you need insulate by the firewall? and over the cat? what do you use?

 

[MattAnonymous]

For insulation from heat, check the first page of this thread. There are a few options. I'll probably go to Home Depot and find something comparable to install on the pan above the exhaust.

I guess I'm gonna go ahead and do the jack stand thing to straighten the frame. I've just gotta find enough stands and/or cinder blocks.

I mean no disrespect when I say "old school". Using adhesive goes against my logic too. It'll be interesting to see what happens. However, I don't want to have to worry about this pan, so I'll be spot welding through the anchor points (aka screw holes) as soon as I can. The adhesive should be more than strong enough to hold everything in place until then.

I mentioned it already, but since someone asked, I'm using SEM Weld-Bond. I've done my research and this seems to be damn good stuff. A quick smell check of the bag it came in says it doesn't fool around. By far, one of the most danger-scented products I've ever handled.

Just a note on acetone to remove the factory sealant, it's a no go. Looks like the wire wheel and/or grinder will be the route of choice. However, I remember this paint remover stuff I used to buy that was a gel. That stuff would eat up anything. Hurt like hell on an open wound, too. Hmm. Where did I get that?

 

[montanaman]

I'm using SEM Weld-Bond. I've done my research and this seems to be damn good stuff.

Here's a quote I found on the first ad that came up in a google search:

"SEM Weld-Bond is not designed for structural components such as rocker panels, rails or core supports ... "

http://www.levineautoparts.com/semwelad.html

SEM Weld-bond is designed for door skins, van sides, roof panels ... things like that. Auto body sheet metal. The floor panels are an integral part of the frame structure, as you've already discovered.

Honestly ... I wouldn't drive my vehicle 10 feet with just the weld-bond. At the very minimum, you should keep the screws in there until you can get to a welder.

I mean no offense in posting this, and I know what a pain it is when people are telling you what to do, but I'd hate to see all your hard work go to waste as soon as you pull out of the parking lot. When I was your age, I did the floor pans on a '67 VW beetle, which has a similar frame structure. There's just no way in the world that Weld-Bond is going to hold up under even moderate flexing that occurs when you turn a corner. Keep the sheet metal screws in there, or better yet, use nuts and bolts, and take it directly from the dorm parking lot to the welding location.

Another idea ... have you considered talking to the University maintenance guys? I'm sure they have access to a portable (gas generator) welder in one of the shops on campus, and they might be able to come to the parking lot after-hours and spot-weld all your holes before you move anything. When you get to talking to people, they might become interested or even excited about your project and want to see it. That always makes guys more willing to help. Or ... they might be able to take out a set of tanks and a torch. You can do some brass brazing in the holes, which would be structurally similar to a spot weld.

Just my 2 cents worth. If you decide to ignore this advice, I honestly hope I'm wrong .

Good luck.

 

[Pro Stock John]

I'd get it in, put in a bunch of screws, and then drive over to someone and get the pan welded. I'd shield the fuel line with wet rags. You will lose a ton of structural integrity without welding, and I would not consider your Jeep safe. If you were just patching the floor it would be no bigggie you are doing a much larger section. Just my 2 cents.

 

[dizzymac]

Check out www.thermotec.com for insulating material, they have some great products. If $$$ are a real big issue I would at least do the "Air Bake" method above the cat. and the eng. pipe leading up to the cat.
If you look around you can find some inexpensive reflective insulation for the lower firewall

 

[89Daytona]

Expect the undercoating/bed liner to catch on fire when welded unless you clean atleast 2" around the weld areas. So a hose/wet towel/leather glove/ fire extinguisher will come in handy.

 

[maine96xj]

im into mine now. my patches are so big i would almost call it a two piece replacement pan, i bent it all out of 16ga. too, took allot of hammering and grinding.

i just drilled holes in the patches over stuructal pieces, like seat brace,"frame rail", and under door lips. im am going to plug weld in these holes with my mig and just do some taks all around the outer edge to keep it down. after that im gunna grind it as smooth as i can get it, prime it and truck bed coat the hole inside, then im gunna see how hot and loud the floor is with any carpet.

 

[TMXONR]

Hey Matt, you need to go and take the doors off of the car of your friend who was jumping on the bumper.

does anyone have pics of a bed lined floor pan(no carpet) installed, do you like this? do the drian plugs get in the way of you/your passengers feet? do you just pull a plug to drain it if water from shoes and stuff gets on it?

maine, here are some pics of my herculined floor and a link to my write-up. I just put in new pans.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=906957

 

[maine96xj]

TMXORN

where did you run wires that go aross the rear foot well area?

does this get hot without any insulation along downpipe and cat? do you have any sound deading material up by the firewall?is it loud?

ill post pics of mine tomorrow, its seems like you put a lot more spot weld holes than i did, so ill most likely make some more.

what did you use as seam seeler? i was just going to use metal chaulking but what you used looks better

 

[TMXONR]

TMXORN

where did you run wires that go aross the rear foot well area?

does this get hot without any insulation along downpipe and cat? do you have any sound deading material up by the firewall?is it loud?

ill post pics of mine tomorrow, its seems like you put a lot more spot weld holes than i did, so ill most likely make some more.

what did you use as seam seeler? i was just going to use metal chaulking but what you used looks better

I forgot to take pics of my routing of the wire, but I split the tape where the set of wire comming from the shifter meets up with the wire comming from the back. Then I ran the wire under the drivers seat, and through the trim, then to the back. I just used some black Duct tape to hold it down, Yea its duct tape, but its black, it holds good, and you cant see it anyway.

It doesn't get hot that I noticed, I will probably drive it to school tomorrow to check everything out since it is done. I drove it some when it was just the bare metal floors, and I touched them after about a 30 min drive, and they were barely warm. I don't think it is any louder than stock, but I don't really drive this much since it isn't my DD, its just soemthing to mess around with.

I was going to use some 3M automotive sealer, but the guy at Oreilly said they only had the type for a caulk gun, and not the brush on. He recomended going to lowes and seeing if they had any. I ended up finding some stuff that looks like the same stuff, it is for sealing metal duct work.

 

[maine96xj]

ok heres pics of my cancer, its not going to bad, should be starting and finishing welding today, then sealer with the 3M auto sealer i got, then priming. i will be herculining tomorrow.

Here are the Holes

Heres the cancerous carpet that is definatly not going back in.

Heres where the water came in, this is right where the windshield washer bottle usaully is.

Here are the three patches. two go on drivers side.(each side of seat brace) and the big one goes all the way across the passenger side. Forming these out of 16ga wasn't to easy. but it will be strong. im gunna spot weld in the holes (mostly over frame rail and seat belt brace straps.) so i dont think this floor will be going anywhere for a long time...i can see it now the floor sitting in my garage 15years from now with nothing around it.

 

[MattAnonymous]

Looks good.

I dunno what I'm gonna do about this door, but I'm giving up on it for now. I need to be able to drive again. It's not like the thing's perfect to begin with.

 

[MattAnonymous]

OK guys, here's an update.

Went to go use the SEM Weld Bond earlier this week. Spent a ton of time prepping the surfaces. Turns out that one of the 2 parts of the adhesive had dried within the tube. Ok, screw it, I'll just arc weld it in with the crappy welder I bought the previous day.

I've been doing my absolute best trying to arc weld the pan to the frame via the holes I drilled, but it doesn't want to stick. It could be the cheap HF rods or the cheap HF welder, but I don't know if I care to find out.

ADVICE NEEDED: I'm new to this whole "doing it the right way" thing, so I need some help. If I were to take this somewhere to have the pan welded, what type of place am I looking for and how much am I looking to spend?

Thanks a ton,
Matt

 

[89Daytona]

ARC welding sheetmetal is a pain, MIG is soooo much easier.

As for where to have it done a Welding shop or body shop can do it, prices will vary so you should get quotes before deciding where to get it done.