I'm going to try and tackle this project on my 94 next weekend, i already have the interior gutted, is there anything i should move or remove from the undercarriage? I only have 3 or 4 holes that are about 4" across. I'm confused about what you guys were talking about in regards to welding the entire pans and what not, since i'm only going to need a few peices that are so small, is it ok to put a bead of weld all the way around the patch i make? Also is it ok to overlap the metal and then weld or does it need to be cut to the exact size of the hole? I also dont have access to a welder anymore, is the link to the spot welder at the beginning of this thread going to work for what i need to do? Thanks for any input, again i've never done anything like this before so any additional info will help. Thanks!
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XJ Floor Pan Rusted Floors FAQ
- Thread starter ConnorMann
- Start date
dizzymac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Hampshire
Sorry about the confusion...I am doing full pan(s) restoration, at this point I have no floor what so ever in my XJ, consider youself lucky that you only have a few holes, I'm glad for you. If I didn't have so much time tied up in this project already I would seriously consider junking the thing. Its more a matter of principal now.
I would still try to weld in your patches if possible. Lay your new material over the old and cut the two together, you now have a perfectly shaped patch. Try to cut your patches so that they are rounded and do not have any right angle corners, less chance of them tearing while flexing.
Just keep spot welding around the edges (both sides,Int/Ext if poss.). Be sure to alternate the welds ex: . . . . then go back and start filling in, alternating again: . . . . . . and so on until you get weld all the way around your patch, trying to run a bead will most likely result in warping and blow-thru.
Don't forget RUST PREVENTION..... take your time here, do the best job you able to, it will save you from coming back next year and doing the job over again.
I would still try to weld in your patches if possible. Lay your new material over the old and cut the two together, you now have a perfectly shaped patch. Try to cut your patches so that they are rounded and do not have any right angle corners, less chance of them tearing while flexing.
Just keep spot welding around the edges (both sides,Int/Ext if poss.). Be sure to alternate the welds ex: . . . . then go back and start filling in, alternating again: . . . . . . and so on until you get weld all the way around your patch, trying to run a bead will most likely result in warping and blow-thru.
Don't forget RUST PREVENTION..... take your time here, do the best job you able to, it will save you from coming back next year and doing the job over again.
dizzymac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Hampshire
If your'e just doing a few patches I wouldn't go to the expense of something like the stitch or spot welder.
A small wire fed welder with MIG capability shoud be plenty good enough. You can pick one up for the same price as the Eastwood set up and you'll have an actual welder not just goodies for a welder. If you don't use flux core wire you'll have a lot cleaning up.
I'm using a small Campbell-Hausfeld wire feed welder, not even using the tank for MIG and its doing a good enough job, our Lincoln welder crapped out on us but this thing keeps humming away
You might even think about cutting your patches and then taking it to a body or welding shop, shouldn't cost much ot take long.
A small wire fed welder with MIG capability shoud be plenty good enough. You can pick one up for the same price as the Eastwood set up and you'll have an actual welder not just goodies for a welder. If you don't use flux core wire you'll have a lot cleaning up.
I'm using a small Campbell-Hausfeld wire feed welder, not even using the tank for MIG and its doing a good enough job, our Lincoln welder crapped out on us but this thing keeps humming away
You might even think about cutting your patches and then taking it to a body or welding shop, shouldn't cost much ot take long.
Rocketman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bolingbrook, IL
The Eastwood spot welder works GREAT at doing spot welds of a Mopar floorpan onto the frame rails, regardless what anyone says it would NOT or could NOT do.
SUGGESTION: you have to touch the rod to the pan for about 6 or 7 seconds until you get a nice glow before you raise it and let it arc. If you arc too long after that (about 2 seconds max) you'll burn through. It took about 6 or 7 tries of burning through or not hot enough to get it right for your rig and your welder. After you get the hang of it, it goes damn fast.
TIP: REST it to let it cool well after every 10 or so welds. If not the whole thing gets so hot the ring which hold the "prongs" begins to melt. ALSO do not use too much pressure. THAT will cause it to deform more when soft. Make sure you use a VERY HEAVY weight to keep the replacement pan touching the rails. Let the welds cool very well before removing or moving the weight.
I replaced an entire side and I'm no welder at all (never in my life actually) and it came out great. I used 3M body seam sealer (quart brushable) on the seams inside. Barely brushable, it's more ilke spreading soft bubblegum.
On the bottom, I used 3m rubberized undercoat (on sale at Advanced for $6 a can.) 3 cans did the whole underbody. I have a Flowmaster cat back so I bought the Flowmaster stainless heat baffle for $26, it came with the stainless straps and it works AMAZING at reducing the floor temps to almost nothing.
I had installed Damplifier Pro on the inside on top of the freshly installed and freshly POR-15'd floorpan. I then installed new exacto match pre-molded carpet. ($150 for the entire passenger compartment)
TOTAL of the project was one hell of a lot of sweat and the following out of my wallet.
Entire Mopar floorpan (no longer available) $180
Eastwood spot gun and 10 rods (used 1 and a half) $40 off eBay
Eastwood 110v welder. Again eBay $105 shipped
40 sq ft Damplifier Pro $100
POR-15 Quart (a half pint was enough) and Metal Prep $45
3 cans 3M undercoat $18
1 QT 3M Brushable Seam Sealer $54 (yeah, not cheap but great product)
Harbor Freight Air Nibbler to cut new pan pieces (didn't need rear driver floor or the entire HUMP ) $20
New pre-molded carpet, $135
Flowmaster 50 heat shield $26 (Summit Racing)
Total about $725 or so AND I have the tools still and most of the quart of POR-15, metal prep and about 18 SQ ft of Damplifier Pro left. I also used the nibbler to cut the holes in my hood for my LeBaron vents.
Not cheap, but I just added a whole lot of life to my 93 for that!!!
SUGGESTION: you have to touch the rod to the pan for about 6 or 7 seconds until you get a nice glow before you raise it and let it arc. If you arc too long after that (about 2 seconds max) you'll burn through. It took about 6 or 7 tries of burning through or not hot enough to get it right for your rig and your welder. After you get the hang of it, it goes damn fast.
TIP: REST it to let it cool well after every 10 or so welds. If not the whole thing gets so hot the ring which hold the "prongs" begins to melt. ALSO do not use too much pressure. THAT will cause it to deform more when soft. Make sure you use a VERY HEAVY weight to keep the replacement pan touching the rails. Let the welds cool very well before removing or moving the weight.
I replaced an entire side and I'm no welder at all (never in my life actually) and it came out great. I used 3M body seam sealer (quart brushable) on the seams inside. Barely brushable, it's more ilke spreading soft bubblegum.
On the bottom, I used 3m rubberized undercoat (on sale at Advanced for $6 a can.) 3 cans did the whole underbody. I have a Flowmaster cat back so I bought the Flowmaster stainless heat baffle for $26, it came with the stainless straps and it works AMAZING at reducing the floor temps to almost nothing.
I had installed Damplifier Pro on the inside on top of the freshly installed and freshly POR-15'd floorpan. I then installed new exacto match pre-molded carpet. ($150 for the entire passenger compartment)
TOTAL of the project was one hell of a lot of sweat and the following out of my wallet.
Entire Mopar floorpan (no longer available) $180
Eastwood spot gun and 10 rods (used 1 and a half) $40 off eBay
Eastwood 110v welder. Again eBay $105 shipped
40 sq ft Damplifier Pro $100
POR-15 Quart (a half pint was enough) and Metal Prep $45
3 cans 3M undercoat $18
1 QT 3M Brushable Seam Sealer $54 (yeah, not cheap but great product)
Harbor Freight Air Nibbler to cut new pan pieces (didn't need rear driver floor or the entire HUMP ) $20
New pre-molded carpet, $135
Flowmaster 50 heat shield $26 (Summit Racing)
Total about $725 or so AND I have the tools still and most of the quart of POR-15, metal prep and about 18 SQ ft of Damplifier Pro left. I also used the nibbler to cut the holes in my hood for my LeBaron vents.
Not cheap, but I just added a whole lot of life to my 93 for that!!!
Last edited:
dizzymac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Hampshire
We have the Eastwood Spot and Stitch welder, can't use 'em with our wire feed welder though. You are right, I had heard so many neg. comments about them that we almost didn't buy them, glad we did. They do take some getting used to, especially the stitch welder, my son is pretty good at it but I'd do better with a needle and thread...lol
For the small patches he has I can't see him going to that expense. For a serious "shadetree mech" or small body (thats where ours are right now) shop I think its a good investment.
I can't say I've ever had a prob. with Eastwood products.
For the small patches he has I can't see him going to that expense. For a serious "shadetree mech" or small body (thats where ours are right now) shop I think its a good investment.
I can't say I've ever had a prob. with Eastwood products.
ok, considering i'm completely new to welding, the only question i have now is...it sounds like i need a different welder in order to make the stitch welder work? It wont be able to weld w/out having another welder, im lost. LOL sorry for my newbie questions.
dizzymac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Hampshire
Do you have a welder or access to one?
Rocketman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bolingbrook, IL
You need an ARC welder Not a TIG or MIG wire feed unit.
jeepnuts311
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Atlanta, Georgia
after poking thru this thread i got scared about my floorboards, since i have had the interior wet a few times. there were a couple of stained, hard spots in the carpet so i was 'fraid they were rust. i cut thru the inch thick carpet and padding and the carpet was saturated.
i havent ripped all the carpet out yet, but there wasnt rust underneath my pedals, and there was a spot the size of a half dollar over the cat under the passengers feet.
ill rip the rest out tomorrow. ..crosses fingers..
-Tim
i havent ripped all the carpet out yet, but there wasnt rust underneath my pedals, and there was a spot the size of a half dollar over the cat under the passengers feet.
ill rip the rest out tomorrow. ..crosses fingers..
-Tim
No i dont have a welder, thats why i thought this "stitch welder" was what i needed to weld. I didnt know i need an additional welder, i can probably find someone nearby that will let me borrow theirs, it has to be an arc welder? And once i get this your saying i still need to get the stitch welder??
1985xjlaredo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
JeepXJ93 ! You will need much more than a weekend to finish this project. Granted I have much more rust from the sounds of it.... But I have been welding for 14 plus years now and I have had numerous problems. I'm Welding with a 90-130 amp mig welder with flux core wire. Wish I would have went with a 75/25 Mix of gas though. If you are going to weld then you MUST Take out anything that will burn on the Top of the floor AND ON THE BOTTOM! My dumb ass burned through the vaccume lines for my np229. You may not have the lines but BECAREFUL! It took me almost 6 hours Just to get the 1: Seats out 2: The Trim including all the brackets for the rear seat and the spare tire. 3: The seat belts out. And the Center console. AND An ARC welder takes a lot of pratice to get right. TAKE US SOME PICS AND WE'LL BE ABLE TO HELP YOU OUT MORE.
My project is going great. I formed my own pans from 18g mild steel. I spot welded the thing \in place and sloowly ran a bead down the "frame" rail. I could only do about 2" at a time with the bead. Well hope to see some pics of your Jeep soon. GOOD LUCK.
My project is going great. I formed my own pans from 18g mild steel. I spot welded the thing \in place and sloowly ran a bead down the "frame" rail. I could only do about 2" at a time with the bead. Well hope to see some pics of your Jeep soon. GOOD LUCK.
1985xjlaredo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
cool sounds good how bad are your floors looking now? Im am prepiong to put the liner down!
1985xjlaredo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
OK I got all of the bed liner down now! I think IM gong to need a second coat though. I found brushing it on to be better cause when I would roll over an area that was already done it seemed to want to pull some of it back up. Kinda like a fish eye effect. Have to wait and see how the first coat looks after it dries. Really thick like tar or something and its kinda hard to get it real even. But I think that gravity will help smooth some of it out a llittle
1985xjlaredo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
I used the Bondo Brand. it was just the stuff that the auto parts store had on hand. I went to the Bondo website to look for a safty data sheet but I couldn't find one. Oh also I think that I found the build sheet on this AMC/Jeep XJ. It was under the seat belt bolt on the driver side. When I get back to work thursday I will scan it and post it on this thread. Oh and dont weld that spot under the spare unless you remove the Gas Tank!:nosmile: :flame:
dizzymac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Hampshire
My gas tank was the first thing to come out. Didn't need to be worrying about putting the XJ in orbit. Makes everything a lot easier to get to.
1985xjlaredo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
yea i didnt do that I just "cold welded" the plate to the floor came out nice but the plate is a little raised up off of the floor because of the welding epoxy. The tank was full when I started this project and I did all of this with NO HELP AT ALL. And at 5'9" 175LBS I'm not a big enough guy to take it down my self.
Yea lol the tank was the first thing i thought about, along w/ any kind of rubber insulated lines there may be under there. What is this "cold weld" you used and is it as good as real welding? I'm trying to figure out if there is a way i can do this w/out welding being that my rust spots are so small...and i dont have access to a welder anymore. I really didnt want to pay a garage to weld for me.
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