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XJ Floor Pan Rusted Floors FAQ

Just finishing the passenger side, had to cut from the rear seat forward. The sherman pan dropped right in, had to cut out holes for the seat screws, no problem, with a angle grinder and cutting wheel. Will post pics soon.
 
Forgot to add I used permatex high heat gasget goop (500 degrees) in the tube to seal the pan to the old sheet metal. I was concerned that the roofing tar I used on the other side would ignite! Also put the air bake cookie sheet (heat shield) above the cat to reduce the heat. Screwed it to the seat brace and the frame with bolts using nuts as spacers. There ended up being about a 1/4 inch space between the sheet and the Xj and 1/2 inch space above the cat.
 
How do I Remove the 2wd-4wd selector switch? The little plastic knob wont come off and I dont want to destroy it in the process! HELP!!!!!!!
 
ok im a dummy nevermind just gotta be mean to it lol Man the disgusting things that fall underneath the console YUK :puke:
 
I'm noticing that some want to use JB Weld,panel adhesive, screws or rivets etc. Remember this is a unibody, when the floor pan flexes it needs to be secured in a manner that will not allow it to seperate from the "frame rails". The best way to do this is by welding the pan(s) back in place. I know this is a PITA but for safety and longevity it needs to be done.
The screws and rivet are subject to "sheer factor" which can destroy their capability of being a secure fastener.
Panel adhesive can do the job but to get an adhesive that is for structural use will be expensive and do you really want to trust it to hold your XJ together.
Spot or plug welding the pan(s) back in REALLY should be the only method to use. Small welders that will do the job readily available and cheap.
 
Got all the carpet out and grinding away now. Doe sthe pan have ot be painted for the herculiner to bond to it?
 
I would paint the floor with something like Zero Rust or POR-15 then use a bed liner, just added protection, you never want to go thru this again so might as well take all the precautions you can.
 
What is por-15? Is it an automotive paint?
 
Ah OK I don't have much rust left at all. I Grind ed most (95%) of it out today. (Oh and you should use a particle respirator when doing this!!!!!) I was just thinking of using a self etching primer to touch the bare metal that isnt getting welded?
 
I didn't paint over any rust, I got rid of it all...as in no floor at all, all rust along rockers inside and out being cut away and replaced with new sheet metal.
Everything I replaced and all metal below the door sills is being coated with Zero Rust(floor pans,frame rails, etc, inside and out.) and then coated with bedliner.
I never want to do this job again and if it gets to the point where it needs to be done again....well theres a gravel pit behind my house, the resulting explosion should be contained to the pit.....lol
 
lol yea i hear ya so much work goes into thie "little" project well im off to do some more man this sux!
 
Got all my metal down now just need to weld it in place. Should i Just tak the new shet metal to the frame rail and putty the rest or should i try to run a bead down the length of the rail. I dont want to warp anything.
 
1985xjlaredo said:
Got all my metal down now just need to weld it in place. Should i Just tak the new shet metal to the frame rail and putty the rest or should i try to run a bead down the length of the rail. I dont want to warp anything.

I would just tak so you don't warp the thin sheet metal frame.
 
yea that is what I was thinking. But then I have to wait for the permatex autobody compund to cure for a while before I "Bondo TruckGuard" the floor. Anyone know what guage metal the unibody frame rails are? My micrometer is broke
 
Tach or plug weld...remember all those spot welds you had to cut out...you basically want to try to replicate them.
Don't forget to use seam sealer in all places where water could get in and "stand".
Bedline the hell out of the Int. so that if water gets in you can just "sop" it up. I'm also doing my Ext. underbody.
Boy am I glad my 89' that I just picked up has good floors, I would never do this again, my XJ would beome a smoldering pile of rubble instead...lol
 
how are you guys cleaning/prepping the bottom of the XJ? what about the "undercoating"

before welding, are you removing all the fuel lines etc?

is there an easy way to tell from underneath the jeep if your floorboards are rusted? mine looks fine from the bottom...

-Tim
 
I've been sandblasting, actually using BlackBeauty....sand is cheap or free but the Beauty won't kill ya. If blasting get a hood, they are cheap, around $25. After the blasting I have been coating everything with Zero Rust (couple of coats).
I'm not using undercoating, had terrible results with it in the past.OEM works great but doing it aftermarket just doesn't seem to do as good of a job.
I have been using seam sealer, seal every 'lil space you can find and bedliner. I'm using two coats on the pans and any other sheet metal I find and one coat on the "frame" rails.
I removed my fuel tank, it will be one of the last things to go back in. I left the fuel lines attached to the rails, however I am replacing the brake lines while I have easy access to them, along with the exhaust, removed and blasted the diff. and replaced the rear brake's and ALL RR brake hardware.
If you can see the floor rotted from underneath then be prepared for a lot of work,the best thing to do is to pull back the "cancer causing" carpet and take a look.
Good luck with yours, I couldn't imagine having to do pan replacement for a living, I'd have to take "Anger Management" classes every week...lol.
 
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