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XJ Cooling System Deficiencies & Solutions

aluminum thermal conductivity @ 300 Kelvin: 237 Watts per meter-Kelvin
copper thermal conductivity @ 300 Kelvin: 401 Watts per meter-Kelvin

Yeah, keep telling me that copper radiators suck...
I have been told that heat transfers faster through aluminum than copper. Is that true? I know that copper will transfer more heat per equivalent mass than aluminum but I'm curious if aluminum transfers it's heat faster and if so, why?
 
I'm not sure really... copper will transfer more heat per unit surface area than aluminum, pretty sure it's not based on mass as it's a lot denser than aluminum. If I had to take a WAG on this one I'd bet on it being due to the speed of sound in aluminum being 5000m/s while copper is 3810m/s. I suck at materials science/metallurgy, but what that says to me is that vibration moves faster in aluminum, and since heat is essentially vibration on an atomic/molecular level, the heat will transfer faster from one side of a block of aluminum than it will in a copper block. The copper will still move more heat though.

Any metallurgists around to tell me I'm dead wrong here?
 
I'm not sure really... copper will transfer more heat per unit surface area than aluminum, pretty sure it's not based on mass as it's a lot denser than aluminum. If I had to take a WAG on this one I'd bet on it being due to the speed of sound in aluminum being 5000m/s while copper is 3810m/s. I suck at materials science/metallurgy, but what that says to me is that vibration moves faster in aluminum, and since heat is essentially vibration on an atomic/molecular level, the heat will transfer faster from one side of a block of aluminum than it will in a copper block. The copper will still move more heat though.

Any metallurgists around to tell me I'm dead wrong here?
Yeah, I think you're right. Just to add to the info about cooling, I had a radiator made <<<<<squirrel!>>>>> one time with the tubes dimpled to increase the surface area of the tubes. The radiator shop that did the work claimed a 30% increase in surface over smooth tubes. The radiator worked very well.
 
well i believe that it would be harder to flow through 3 cores than it would be to flow through 2? or maybe im wrong.
 
this was from another radiator thread and i think this is a good fight on how good the be cool radiators are ;)

I got in a bind and went for the Be Cool. (Summit in stock, which shows up next day with regular shipping where I live.)

I must say now that it is installed, it is great. Previously I converted to the 1992 open style cooling and was running a 7 year old 3 core GDI or Modine, I can't recall which. I have put about 60K miles on the 3 core and keep the fins clean. My electric fan is the newer style XJ fan with a Summit temp swtich turning it on at 185F. I also have all the stock AC parts in place and running on the budget installed (esther oil and R134 charge with no other changes.) I had several years ago upgraded the fan clutch with a newer one that was 3.65 inches wide, while stock is 3.06. With the new radiator I went back to the stock fan clutch for space. The HD version may have fit, but it was only going to be about 0.3 inches spacing. Too tight for my taste. With the stock fan clutch is has about I run the Energy Eurothane brand motor mounts so I would have likely been ok, since the are almost like solid mounts and don't flex much.

Other than that the install went smooth. Just know that the radiator needs to be tilted forward to help with space while installing the fan/clutch assembly. This was the same as with the 3 core for me. Had to bend AC lines slightly where they U around the radiator tank on the passenger side. Removed old stock trans cooler and replaced with much larger B&M cooler in the same place.

Engine is Renix 4L that is 30 over with about 80,000 since rebuild, with a mild cam upgrade, bored throttle body, 21lbs injectors, Borla header, stock 2 year old cat and muffler, MSD 6AL with SS coil. (Had the MSD stuff laying around, haven't noticed much change from the stock ignition.) I do plug readings now and them and the engine does not appear to run lean. All emission controls still in place and most less than 3 years old.

Jeep 1989 is lifted about 7 inches with 33x10.50x15 and 4.10 gears. D30 front and Ford 9 back. Heavy winch and bumper upfront. Stock hitch in back. All other interior and body is stock.

Before: at about 95F outside with Max AC on it would climb fast go to 230 and higher if I didn't shut off the AC during highway driving 65mph. This was worth about 15 minutes of AC time-basically worhtless and can't use the AC. City driving will overheat the engine with AC. With No AC on the Jeep would stay at about 210 unless it was pushed hard or towing 3000 lbs up hill for at least 15 minutes. Summer trips up to Tahoe (not towing) going 65-70 the engine would creep up to 230, slowing down to 55-60 the engine would stay at 210-220.

After: at about 95 on highway 65mph AC on MAX Jeep runs 195-200 and the AC IS SOOO COLD. (this equals happy wife). Can idle in driveway with AC on indefinitely and traffic is a breeze too. The Jeep engine temp now appears to be controlled by the thermostat. If pushed hard the engine shows no signs of temp change. Don't tow much and haven't tried yet.

Wish I would have done this along time ago. Even when the 3 core was brand new with the HD clutch fan the jeep was always riding the line of 210-220. The almost 600 for Radiator and tranny cooler hurt my wallet for the old Jeep, but Heck Being Cool makes up for it (ha ha). Also I spend more than that on tires every few years.

I hope this helps you all. I gave as much info as possible so you can compare to your set ups. (or be bored with all the part blah blah)
 
well i believe that it would be harder to flow through 3 cores than it would be to flow through 2? or maybe im wrong.

You would be wrong.

Why would it be harder to flow the same volume of fluid through a larger area? My three core is thicker than the 2 core it replaced. It also has Metal Tanks FTW.
 
well i just know that a lot of people do not like their 3 core and some people do. i here that at low speed or in traffic 3 core is great but once you are going 65 to 80 its shit!
 
Mine worked great on I-85 all the way to Florida at 75-80 the whole way.

I hear that it kinda fits into the whole topic of this thread, ie you have to have a working cooling system to begin with.

Why would it suck worse at speed? Makes no sense.
 
I ran a 3 core GDI for a long time and it worked well. The reason I replaced it was it got damaged and I decided to try an all aluminum one. If I had to I would not hesitate to use a 3 row copper/brass radiator again.
 
You would be wrong.

Why would it be harder to flow the same volume of fluid through a larger area? My three core is thicker than the 2 core it replaced. It also has Metal Tanks FTW.

The tubes on a quality two-core radiator are larger diameter than the tubes on a three-core.

Actually, about the same amount of coolant flows through both.

But the smaller tubes are much more easily/rapidly clogged over time, properly maintained or not.
 
I might consider upgrading my radiator but not anytime soon. It physically looks to be ok.
I'm trying to install a trans cooler but I don't want to mount it in front of the rad. I already have the a/c condenser there. I was thinking of going with Go Jeep's idea and mounting it underneath, behind the crossmember, and plugging the stock integrated trans cooler holes in the rad. I just need to figure out what metal I should use (I was going to use plumber's tape but it appears too thin) and if I really need a fan for that, some say I do, in Go Jeep's write-up he doesn't use one.
 
That's what I did, I bought 3/8 square plugs (since they didn't have 3/8 hex head plugs). I think tomorrow I'll cut up some 14 gauge to make actual brackets to more solidly mount my trans cooler.
 
I might consider upgrading my radiator but not anytime soon. It physically looks to be ok.
I'm trying to install a trans cooler but I don't want to mount it in front of the rad. I already have the a/c condenser there. I was thinking of going with Go Jeep's idea and mounting it underneath, behind the crossmember, and plugging the stock integrated trans cooler holes in the rad. I just need to figure out what metal I should use (I was going to use plumber's tape but it appears too thin) and if I really need a fan for that, some say I do, in Go Jeep's write-up he doesn't use one.


I don't get this stuff about being afraid of mounting more coolers in front of the radiator. It's been done this way for years and years on ountless vehicles. Ever look at a new truck? Coolers stacked up the wazoo. It's actually less critical on an XJ because the radiator is wide enough that you can mount extra coolers side by side rather than stacking them.

Just do it..... :)
 
I don't get this stuff about being afraid of mounting more coolers in front of the radiator. It's been done this way for years and years on ountless vehicles. Ever look at a new truck? Coolers stacked up the wazoo. It's actually less critical on an XJ because the radiator is wide enough that you can mount extra coolers side by side rather than stacking them.

Just do it..... :)


How good is the air flow on the XJ fan assisted or by ram effect. It do not appear to be all that good on a lifted XJ. I move mine from in front of the the radiator and AC condensor. I think every little bit have to help out in the engine cooling department.

Critics claim that a vertical radiator is more effecient than the horizantally mounted XJ radiator. :dunno: If I did not need the AC, I would have moved the condensor from there also.
 
How good is the air flow on the XJ fan assisted or by ram effect. It do not appear to be all that good on a lifted XJ. I move mine from in front of the the radiator and AC condensor. I think every little bit have to help out in the engine cooling department.

Critics claim that a vertical radiator is more effecient than the horizantally mounted XJ radiator. :dunno: If I did not need the AC, I would have moved the condensor from there also.


This paranoia cracks me up. Sure, it's fine, and can be fun, to make anything work better. However, there is no NEED for all of this paranoia about cooling. Some people have their little things that they do to make improvements, which is totally fine, however most people out there are running them just like they are.....with a good radiator, aux fan working, the fan shroud in good shape, good fan clutch, good radiator/expansion bottle cap, with trans and PS coolers mounted in front of the radiator and AC condensor.
 
Every action causes a (negative) reaction. Eliminating the mechanical fan means no air flow over the radiator at idle or moving slowly. Because of this, the radiator ow is hotter than it used to be. The hot radiator in turn heat the tranismission oil several degrees hotter that it would have been. This in turn causes the transmission to run hotter. The start of a vicious cycle. During the summer, driving through the city in Miami, the engine temperature remains just about perfect at 200 to 210 degrees with the electrical fan running intermitantly to keep the temps in check. At the same time, I watch the transmission oil going to the cooler creep up to 200+. A long highway run or manually turning on the electric fans bring the transmission oil back to about 150+/-. Leaving the electric fans on will defeat the purpose of installing them in the first case.

Since I remove the oil cooler from in front of the radiator, the engine fan do not cycle as much and the transmission oil remains 20 to 30 degrees lower. Of cource the transmission now have it's own fan and thermostat switch mounted like Go-Jeep did his.

That vertical and horizantal thing, I do not know how true that is. Maybe I read too much into other people's opinion. None the less, I am sure I read it here on NAXJA with the poster claiming the info came from one of the XJ's engineers claming the chance was made when the 4.0 replaced the 2.5 and the 2.8 engines which both have the vertical flow radiator.
 
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