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XJ Cooling System Deficiencies & Solutions

BarFlyFisherman said:
Most OEM and imported electric fans do not have sealed motors. They easily fail when sprayed with water from a water crossing or a burst radiator hose. Most have cheap plastic blades that get soft at higher temperatures, flattening out, moving even less air than their rated CFM's.

I am running triple FF Dynamics Triple Threat Extreme 10" fans with their custom shroud. The individual fans have curved aluminum blades and run at a higher rpm than their stock fans. They move more CFM's than their stock glass filled fans and still draw less than 6 amps each.
Click to expand...


I just looked at FFdynamics site, and all the fans I could find on there have plastic (glass filled) blades. Do you have any idea if they still make the AL bladed ones?
 
Stock is fine, IF:

1. You change you're coolant every season. (overkill)

2. Use a quality stock temp thermostat such as superstant or mopar

3. Check your radiator for bugs, bats, birds, etc.... Straighten the fins.

4. Replace the damned radiator when it starts to get iffy, get a quality replacement. Can't make a recomendation.

5. If you're AC doesn't work, get rid of that dammend condenser.

6. Check all your hoses and clamps, spring for the good clamps. Replace the hoses when mileage gets up there.

7. Get the HD fan clutch from napa, part # posted many times. Best mod ever.

Never been above 210, lots of slow 98+ degrees crawls. Towed a 5500 pound boat up and down hell hills for four hours, never above 210. Yes the temp gauge works BTW.
 
bigdaddyjlove said:
I just looked at FFdynamics site, and all the fans I could find on there have plastic (glass filled) blades. Do you have any idea if they still make the AL bladed ones?
Click to expand...

Their glass filled blades are great too! A buddy is running them with one of their custom shrouds on his TJ and loves them (3+ years). That's how I found out about FF Dynamics (potential new NAXJA Sponsor??)

The ALUMINUM blades are a BRAND NEW ITEM (5/2011), that are not yet on their website.
If you are ordering, request their Extreme Triple Threat with the NEW Aluminum Blades (http://ffdynamics.com/extremecherokeeB.html). They didn't charge me any extra for the aluminum blade upgrade option, but that might change.

There is nothing wrong with building to MIL SPECS.
 
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BarFlyFisherman said:
There is nothing wrong with building to MIL SPECS.
Click to expand...

Mil spec does not necessarily mean good. There are quite a few things that I have been issued that are mil spec that I would not choose to use otherwise. It can be a good thing but not always. It also can mean that you are paying for something overengineered in the wrong areas.
 
dieselenthusiast said:
Does this NAPA part that you speak of work on the newer 2000/2001 XJ's?
Click to expand...


Good question. Check the stock part number for a 96, and a 00 or 01. If the stock part numbers are the same, then the fitment is the same, and yes, the mod will work.



My honest guess would be yes, it will fit. 85% sure. I've never worked on 00s or 01's. , so its a guess. Do your research at advance auto or something.


The HD clutch is worth EVERY penny.
 
dieselenthusiast said:
Does this NAPA part that you speak of work on the newer 2000/2001 XJ's?
Click to expand...


BTW: If you do the upgrade, this clutch moves so much more air at higher RPMS, it'll rip any loose hood insulation off the hood. Kinda funny to see that. I guess my original fan clutch was shot eons ago. I think most peoples are, its just something that overlooked even by seasoned mechanics.

Props to the member who posted the original thread, can remember his handle, but he definatly knows his shite, and likes to help others.
 
962drrhino said:
BTW: If you do the upgrade, this clutch moves so much more air at higher RPMS, it'll rip any loose hood insulation off the hood. Kinda funny to see that. I guess my original fan clutch was shot eons ago. I think most peoples are, its just something that overlooked even by seasoned mechanics.

Props to the member who posted the original thread, can remember his handle, but he definatly knows his shite, and likes to help others.
Click to expand...

Thanks 962drrhino. And you're right, this thread has been very helpful!
 
Got a 92 cherokee in line 6. Was overheating so replaced the thermostat and radiator cap checked for leaks. no leaks but temp still climbs. any ideas?
 
962drrhino said:
Stock is fine, IF:

1. You change you're coolant every season. (overkill)
Based on time & miles [plus use]


2. Use a quality stock temp thermostat such as superstant or mopar
ROBERTSHAW HD "Balanced Sleeve" 195F. [Re-labelled Mr. Gasket [ck correct part number, example only]]

3. Check your radiator for bugs, bats, birds, etc.... Straighten the fins.
Often, as with any vehicle. Use a fin comb

4. Replace the damned radiator when it starts to get iffy, get a quality replacement. Can't make a recomendation.
Keep the system like new and maybe not. Make sure shroud and splash guard are intact.

5. If your AC doesn't work, get rid of that damned condenser.

6. Check all your hoses and clamps, spring for the good clamps. Replace the hoses when mileage gets up there.
Hoses every 5-years or so; use constant torque clamps NAPA

7. Get the HD fan clutch from napa, part # posted many times. Best mod ever.
Good idea for towing or low speed; but not FE

Never been above 210, lots of slow 98+ degrees crawls. Towed a 5500 pound boat up and down hell hills for four hours, never above 210. Yes the temp gauge works BTW.
Click to expand...


Ours is 2WD. Second 2001 we've had. Combined miles is 250k. Have had them since 1987 (with many more miles). Never any cooling problems solo or towing. Won't argue with mods above, but most of it could be avoided with very careful flushing (which is a multi-day PITA; open drains & install petcocks, remove block plugs; etc, use PRESTONE Super Radiator Cleaner per directions. Clear distilled water in and clear water out by the final day. Multiple flushes, I go through about 17-gls of distilled water on most cars when I do this. Use the Flush&Fill Kit plus replace hoses, clamps, thermostat and water pump and fan clutch at all one go).

We also run either Schaeffers #258 or RMI-25 after coolant change. No more solder bloom or crud or even discoloration. Do a standard flush & fill (or have it machine done at correct shop).

I raised the hood hinges on this '01 and removed the hood/firewall weatherstrip on the side awa from the HVAC air intake. The latter was really all it needed. Jeep now runs a little cool for best FE. Exhausting hot airflow matters.

.
 
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sigh..

this thread continues to go on, mixing plain bad info with total bullshit and spewing the results into our lovely website.


yes, if you replace your entire cooling system with new upgraded aftermarket stuff, it will run cooler and not overheat.

.. yes, if you replace your entire cooling system with quality OEM parts, ..it will run cooler and not overheat.

Eventually enough upgrades will replace whatever bad component that is causing your rig to overheat. Or you can figure out what that component is, repair or replace it, and have the same result.
 
it will never die...
 
:explosion NEVER!!!

Maybe someone can find what ails their cooling system & find the singular fix.

Here are 2 images of ONE of the FF Dynamics Extreme fans with the shroud attached, prior to mounting. This is the NEWEST design with cast aluminum blades - absolutely no flex or distortion.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/65954945@N06/6003126707/in/photostream
http://www.flickr.com/photos/65954945@N06/6003126707/in/photostream

I measured the speed of the air flow with an anemometer at 21mph. At 10" diameter & a little math that calculates out to 1007 CFM per fan. (Every good sniper owns an anemometer - wind meter to calculate bullet drift).

I'll post images of the 3 installed fans as soon as I get a chance to photograph them.
 
This thread covers everything that could go wrong with the system, and gives one correct and 6-9 incorrect ways to fix the problem. So the odds are not looking so good for someone getting anything out of it.
 
That's right anybody can throw parts at a problem till they fix it. Probably save them money n the long run to have someone that knows Wat they r doin fix it for them. This coming from an ASE certified auto tech.
 
localboy said:
That's right anybody can throw parts at a problem till they fix it. Probably save them money n the long run to have someone that knows Wat they r doin fix it for them. This coming from an ASE certified auto tech.
Click to expand...

Depends. Sometimes, yeah, cheaper and or more sensible to let a pro do it.
I worked at a repair shop in Berkeley, though, with a $95 shop rate on Toyota and $120 on Volvo. We charged full list for most parts, too. A guy could be many dollars ahead to spend a saturday replacing the water pump, only to put a radiator in next weekend, as opposed to having our shop put in a radiator and fix it the first time. Parts are dirt cheap on Amazon and Rock Auto and if you enjoy wrenching...
 
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